what would break?

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bukaj

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I'm planning on doing a cross country train trip with my iiic. As I don't have the best example I'm considering the possibility of something going wrong. When I sent it in for a CLA I was advised to put this camera on a shelf since it has sentimental value to me (been in the family for a long time) and get a cleaner version. But the camera works for me, and after a few rolls I'm pleased with the results.

To my question. For those who have been using these cameras for years, and have dealt with less than perfect models, if something were to go wrong, what would it be? How would I know considering I won't be developing during my trip. Being a very handy person, is any of this something I can fix on the road? Chances are the camera will be fine, and if it stops working, it won't be the end of the world, but I just want to prepare myself.

thanks,
-jakub
 
Hello Jakub,

I think the worst situation for your beloved IIIC is indeed to put it on a shelf and not use it !
Apart from severly knocking it around or having the train rolling on it what can happen ?
Post a picture of it if you can.
 
Dear Jakub,

Sticking (slow or hanging up) shutter.

Sticking RF (not focusing properly).

There's not a lot else to go wrong. Why not ask the person who advised you not to use it?

Using the camera as often as possible is the best way to ward off either of the above problems.

Cheers,

R.
 
They are very tough cameras....I have 4 Barnacks and never an issue......Since the camera was serviced the only thing that you should watch for are the curtains, unless of course they were replaced. The old fabric can develop light leaks so test them from time to time. A flash light in a dark room will show any problems.
 
Vibration can affect the vertical RF alignment. You can fix it without tools; unscrew the chrome RF bezel nearest the shutter speed dial and rotate the little prism inside until your RF images match up again.
 
I think it would be far worse to NOT use it!

I've done several European trips with my screwmount Leicas, and never had any issues. If anything, your camera mioght provide a nice 'entree' to unique situations and conversations with people that you might not have with say, a Canon Rebel.

If everything is working fine, curtains are light-tight, etc, I can't see you having a problem with anything. Having said that, a second body would be a good idea. Fortunately, a nice III or IIIa body wouldn't be too much money.

I say go for it!


MeandOskar.jpg

From a trip to Wetzlar -- with my Leica III
 
I think the main issues with my camera are inconsistencies with shutter speeds. I posted another thread on this forum about my slow speeds, but it looks like 1/4 and 1/2 are too fast. As soon as I get the roll in it developed I'll know. I was also told I could have some issues with 1/500 and 1/1000. Before sending it for a CLA slow speeds wouldn't work and I would get black streaks at 1/500 and 1/1000. Since then I've noticed 1/1000 is slow (read that's typical) but 1/500 works fine. You can see a picture below. It looks much better than it really is under soft light. Has plenty of brassing and the leather is chipped in some areas. Also has a dent by the serial number, but hard to see that in the picture. I was told the curtains are in OK shape. No light leaks and they look fine to me.

I guess my question was more of the effect can something mechanically go wrong, which shutter speeds all of a sudden getting really inaccurate or something to that effect. I like the idea of using a flashlight to test the curtains. I know these cameras are very robust, and I'm really not worried, just planning for the worst. But like an old car, sometimes it's worth having a screwdriver around to fix something that commonly goes awry. Seems like this isn't an issue with these cameras though.

thanks,
-jakub
 
my backup will be a digital point and shoot. it can double as a light meter in some situations as well.

And I agree with an ltm being more approachable than an slr. should make it easier to get portraits along the way.
 
I don't know what you'll be able to do with the screwdriver when your "CLA tech" couldn't managed to calibrate your shutter speeds...
I am not handy at all but I saw (or almost saw) the small parts y camera consist when it was in my CLA tech hands, so if I were you I would take a magnet along with the screwdriver to collect all the small pieces after opening the camera...
Seriously, if you are so concerned may be you should leave it on the shelve instead digging inside on the road (IMO).
Regards,
b.
 
If the curtains are old, you could have pin-holes suddenly appear from the rubber cloth deteriorating, or issues with streaking at high speeds. That happened to my IIIf, but it was in the first or second roll I put through it.

The best way to insure its reliability is to run a few test rolls through it.

As far as shutter speed accuracy, adjust your exposures, not the camera. For example, I know that I need to give my IIIf an extra stop over what the meter tells me.
 
the screwdriver reference had to do with the car analogy. i was more looking for advice like ray j gun and rogerzilla gave. and just to get helpful information from people that have experience with these cameras. I don't know why you put quotes around cla tech since he came highly recommended on this board and did a good job getting my camera into working condition.

like i said, not concerned, just preparing, and curious more than anything else.

is it possible to get a repair manual for this camera? if anything, being an engineer, i'd really like to see what it looks like on the inside.

-jakub
 
Last edited:
Not sure for the IIIc but the IIIf repair manual is online at http://benoit.suaudeau.perso.neuf.fr/manuels_rep/telemetrique/leica_iiif.pdf

Should do the trick.

There are also Rick Oleson's notes at http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-154.html

I say go for it, just maybe stay away from the 1/1000 speed. I don't think I'd bring repair tools along in your situation. OTOH a small kit and a clean desk in a hotel room goes a long way with these, particularly since it's just been apart, not stuck together for 50+ years.
 
batterytypehah! said:
... OTOH a small kit and a clean desk in a hotel room goes a long way with these, particularly since it's just been apart, not stuck together for 50+ years.
Click to expand...

I remember reading about a person partially disassembling their Leica on an airline tray 😱 Not sure if you could pull all your tools out on a plane anymore, though.

Screwmount Leicas are quite robust little cameras. If yours is working properly now, I would think the chances of it suddenly breaking are pretty slim.
 
Horizontal streaks at 500 and 1000 means new curtains even if you do not see leaks. Been thru this twice, two cameras.

Put the camera in a bag when not in use. Wrap the camera i a small bath towel or the bag in a small bath towel and vibration problems go away.

Cut a proper leader. Forget the the other fixes.

Film magazine spools are to short for the C and film tends to fall down putting some of the image on the sprocket holes. Cardboard washer will hold up the film can. Brass film cassettes avoid the problem. I would not use them for film that goes to a processor for the will break them, lose parts, or screw up the film.

Once you get one working, never let it go.
 
Since getting it back from a CLA I've only taken 1 shot at 1/1000 and it came out fine, just overexposed slightly. I've taken multiple at 1/500, and they all came out fine.

Before the CLA I would see streaks covering 1/4 to half the frame at both 1/500 and 1/1000. There was an angle to the streaks. I'll scan one of the negatives in the next few days and upload it.

I was suggested a piece of felt to raise the film cassette and now my exposures are straight and not over the sprocket holes.

If anything I think this thread is becoming a nice compilation of the problems that can plague an ltm.
 
Travelling with an old Leica.

1) the strap breaks. (I know this sounds petty but those old lovely brown leather straps have long since lost most of their strength)

2) the eyes the strap runs through on the case break. (See above.) Best to travel with a strap directly onto the camera and a bubble wrap bag to use as a case if you must. To be honest, yours has seen a fair bit of action already so I'd suggest a case is unnecessary.

2) you lose your prized lens cap. So don't take it, use a milk bottle top instead.

If the camera is half good mechanically and works OK now it will still be working when you get back and for a lot, lot longer after that!

Michael
 
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