New GSN owner

[fast14riot]

Just picked up a real clean GSN two days ago, it is working well, all shutter speeds seem to be accurate, focus is right on and all lights are working. So far, a great $20 purchase.

Newb question, in low light, do I hold the shutter release down for the time I expect the shutter to be open? Seems that in a very dimly lit room at wide open if I press the shutter release it closes when I let it up, but if I hold it down it stays open for an appropriate 1.5-2 seconds then makes a faint electronic squeal and the shutter closes. Does this sound normal? I get similar shutter speeds on my D200 with a 43mm 2.0 lens and my F100 with a 50 1.8 lens, so I know the speeds are accurate.

I would really like to utilize this fast lens by taking low light pics, but want to make sure I am using this camera correctly.


-Xander

 

[btgc]

It depends on how dim it is and ISO. Set camera to lowest ISO (12?), close down lens to f/16 and try then, pointing camera to dark corner - it should open for much longer than 2sec. even if you don't keep release pressed down. It just locks in down position and pops out when done.

 

[fast14riot]

I compared all three cameras at 100iso to make sure things were about the same. The room was lit by my fishtank only and at night. I will check again and just simply play around with it a bit.


Also, I suspect that my ISO indicator wheel is out of alignment, which direction do I turn it to its stop for which value? Is it CCW to the highest ISO at its stop like I suspect?

-Xander

 

[btgc]

There should be red index detent on ISO ring. At minimal value blades over meter cell should be almost closed, at max value - open as much as possible.

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

fast14riot, I don't know about your last question, but I do have an answer for the first.

The GSN shutter in dim light is supposed to stay open based on the metering even if you have released the shutter button. But, there's a defect I have seen on several cameras which closes the shutter when you release the button. I don't know exactly what's wrong. On cameras with the defect, I just hold down the shutter release until the shutter closes or eventually I send it off for repair.

I have also often heard the squeal before the shutter closes. I think that's benign.

 

[fast14riot]

There should be red index detent on ISO ring. At minimal value blades over meter cell should be almost closed, at max value - open as much as possible.

Thanx, I will double check it when I get home and adjust if needed. I did this morning, but am at work now and don't remember which way I did it!

fast14riot, I don't know about your last question, but I do have an answer for the first.

The GSN shutter in dim light is supposed to stay open based on the metering even if you have released the shutter button. But, there's a defect I have seen on several cameras which closes the shutter when you release the button. I don't know exactly what's wrong. On cameras with the defect, I just hold down the shutter release until the shutter closes or eventually I send it off for repair.

I have also often heard the squeal before the shutter closes. I think that's benign.

Thanx Col.S.M., good to know that I won't be hurting the system by using it this way. The squeal sure is interesting, maybe I'll get a camera strap with pigs on it to match!

Also, I have been searching a little bit for where I can get light seals for the film compartment, these are pretty well done for. I suspect this camera sat around for a long time due to the residue from the foam/glue off gassing during decay. Anyone who owns a Chevy knows all about that from the blue windshield you get all the time!


-Xander

 

[btgc]

Release, not keeping down during long exposures - I were able to cure mine by adjusting rod under shutter release (acess from bottom).

Bluish VF of Electro is documented feature, for enhanced contrast.

Light seals can be renewed using felt, or yarn like on older cameras, or just purchase DIY foam kit from John Goodman. I've cut strips from foam mouse pad, works fine. I'm sure there are more suitable materials and methods.

 

[Cold]

fast14riot,

My G is just like your GSN: very clean, accurate shutter, needs to have the release held down, electronic farts.

I've only run one roll through it before it suffered a sudden mishap in the car and the battery check plate came off. I only need to find a replacement screw for one side of it to get it back on, but until it's whole again, I'm somewhat leery of taking it out without a panel (but it still functions correctly). And that one roll of film turned out just fine.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[fast14riot]

Release, not keeping down during long exposures - I were able to cure mine by adjusting rod under shutter release (acess from bottom).

Bluish VF of Electro is documented feature, for enhanced contrast.

Light seals can be renewed using felt, or yarn like on older cameras, or just purchase DIY foam kit from John Goodman. I've cut strips from foam mouse pad, works fine. I'm sure there are more suitable materials and methods.

I will consider a rod adjustment if I notice shutter speeds acting up, but in the mean time I prefer to leave well-enough alone.

I was referring to the residue in the film chamber from outgassing, the VF is perfectly fine. I suspect english is not your first language, I apologize for any confusion, I don't know how international this site is yet!

I may buy a light seal kit, or I will call my local repair shop for a price quote, but maybe he will sell me the material instead.

Cheers!

-Xander

 

[btgc]

I was referring to the residue in the film chamber from outgassing, the VF is perfectly fine. I suspect english is not your first language, I apologize for any confusion, I don't know how international this site is yet!

Now when I re-read your text, I clearly see you never mentioned VF and outgassing tohether. I jumped on blue windshield of Chevy you mentioned :bang:

And yes, language Shakespeare spoke is not my native. I must have been more careful.

 

[fast14riot]

Holy smokes! I just called my local repair shop and he said it would be $60-$80 just to replace the light seals, yikes! I think I will be either sending it out or more likely doing it myself.


-Xander

 

[Austintatious]

just purchase DIY foam kit from John Goodman.

I have bought several of these kits from Jon. For $10 you get enough material to re-seal
three to four cameras. Instructions and a wooden tool are included. Recommended !

JGood21967@aol.com

Pretty sure he still sells them.

 

[nparsons13]

I have bought several of these kits from Jon. For $10 you get enough material to re-seal
three to four cameras. Instructions and a wooden tool are included. Recommended !

JGood21967@aol.com

Pretty sure he still sells them.

+1 I bought two seal kits from Jon just last month. My latest contact with him was at Jon_Goodman@Yahoo.com.

 

[fast14riot]

Thanx for the contact info! All the web searches were bringing up was info a couple years old and I wasn't sure if it was current or not. I will send him an email this week for sure!


-Xander

 

[Griz]

Thanx for the contact info! All the web searches were bringing up was info a couple years old and I wasn't sure if it was current or not. I will send him an email this week for sure!


-Xander

Jon also frequents APUG.org, and you can contact him through PM's there. I just received a kit for my G this week, completed the body and film door seals yesterday. Today will be my first attempt at the dreaded P.O.D.! Jon's kits are complete, and accompanied by excellent instructions. You can't go wrong for $10 including shipping!

Griz 🙂

 

[fast14riot]

Update:

I (finally) got my light seal kit from Jon, had some issues with the USPS and never got the first shipment, but was no fault of Jon's. New seals in place, but when I went to do the POD, I discovered that th original one was very much intact and pefectly fine! It was clean, pliable, and not deformed one bit.

So, I button everything back up and dry fire a few times. Well, I still had the issue with the shutter closin upon release of the button. I took the bottom cover off and thanx to RFF member btgc for mentioning the rod adjustment and RFF member monopix's website with the helpful info and image, I discovered the issue. The main shutter release rod (the larger one on the right) was not travelling far enough to allow the arm to fall into the groove. I adjusted it approx 3 full turns in half turn increments until it finall allowed the arm to catch. Then I fine tuned it to synch up all the actions.

The result is now the shutter stays open when I release the trigger! It still squeals before releasing the shutter rod, but that's ok. It gives character to a quirky old camera.

Thanx so much fo the helpful members here! Now where's some film, gonna test this bad boy out today, finally!


-Xander

 

[farlymac]

Good to hear the camera is now working fine. That squeal is the solenoid chattering as the voltage drops. I had an MG-1 that sounded like an ark welder, until I exercised it about a hundred times. And you must have gotten one of the late model GSN's, with the improved material for the POD. It should last a very long time. Happy Shooting!

PF

 

[b1bmsgt]

The squealing electronics are usually caused by dirty electrical contacts...

Russ