70mm Film FUN up ahead

[Nokton48]

Kindermann 70mm Tank & Reels by Nokton48, on Flickr

 

[z.bruce.li]

I'm getting a 2-quart SS cooking pot, some black PVC pipes to DIY into a tank. I wish myself good luck. 🙂

 

[Nokton48]

Yep good luck!

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

The Paterson Major Tank, just arrived from the UK. Seem to be plentiful. Will hold very well a 120 length of 70mm width film, so good for "clip tests" where I don't want to waste an entire roll. Agitation via spinning the large top black knob, fits on by friction. Works very well for what it is, which is beautiful bakelite. Don't drop it, but it seems very sturdy and solidly made

 

[zhorton]

Awesome photos and awesome DIY zhorton! 6x12 is probably as wide as we can get by adapting existing backs. I wonder if the Linhof 70mm back will be worth a look as well.

Thanks! I looked into the Cine Rollex. The darkslide channel is long enough to do this, but back would be difficult to machine, given that the shell is integrated into the back. The advance mechanism would have to be modified, as it cannot by default handle less than full stroke advances. The film pressure plate is also too small, even for 6x9. Conclusion: theoretically possible, but not practical to modify these.

 

[zhorton]

That is beautiful work. I may need to hack my three RH50's to 6x9cm soon, I will be happy as a clam when I accomplish that. So the film counter is disabled right? I can live without that myself

Well, the film counter still works, and can be used with a bit of arithmetic: multiply its current number by 2/3 to get the actual value. It can also be used as a roll percentage (i.e., you know that "25" is half way through the roll, etc.).

Let me know if you'd like me to modify your backs. I'd happily trade for some film (especially recent Rollei 400 or Fuji CDU II), or just old fashioned money. I also have a couple of these ready to go for anyone who would like to do such a trade!

 

[Nokton48]

Well, the film counter still works, and can be used with a bit of arithmetic: multiply its current number by 2/3 to get the actual value. It can also be used as a roll percentage (i.e., you know that "25" is half way through the roll, etc.). Let me know if you'd like me to modify your backs. I'd happily trade for some film (especially recent Rollei 400 or Fuji CDU II), or just old fashioned money. I also have a couple of these ready to go for anyone who would like to do such a trade!

I have three Graflex 70mm RH-50's, and I'd be interested in having them opened up to 6x9cm, my European cameras take that size negatives. So the counter would still work (with arithmetic) for 6x9? I'll send you a PM if you're interested in doing these.

 

[zhorton]

I have three Graflex 70mm RH-50's, and I'd be interested in having them opened up to 6x9cm, my European cameras take that size negatives. So the counter would still work (with arithmetic) for 6x9? I'll send you a PM if you're interested in doing these.

Discussion is happening via PM, but as to the 6x9 question, and for others: yes, 6x9 is very doable, and the advance will be the same as 6x10 (1.5 strokes). Film counter will work the same way. More details on that: Once modified, one out of every two frames will register on the frame counter as an advance of 1. The other frame out of each two will register as an advance of 2 on the frame counter. Multiplying the current frame number by 2/3 will yield your actual 6x10 or 6x9 frame number, with an error margin of up to 1 frame. In practice it is a lot simpler than this sounds, but I wanted to provide a complete explanation of how the frame counter works. If you're using it to determine when you want to cut your film, or how much of the cartridge is left, this is quite accurate. Exact frame numbers, however (for logs/notes) can be slightly more tricky given the error margin of 1 frame. In practice, the frame counter has given me all the info I need.

 

[The_Darkness]

Hey Nokton,

On page 74, I posted some images of a custom daylight tank I had made. I still haven't gotten around to using it, but I'm curious what your thoughts are on filling and draining it. Filling it with 2.5L of fluid for each stage of development will be time consuming and I'm concerned about how that time will affect the development quality. For training, I can install a vent valve at the bottom, which will speed up draining when inverted. I think I will probably have to do the same and add a vent valve to the lid to expedite filling and so air doesn't have to pass the incoming fluid through the baffles.

I've even thought about installing ports with hoses to separate containers with the different chemicals already premixed, which will then use gravity to fill the tank. Then have a drain port on the bottom.

Thoughts?

What type of agitation would you recommend?

 

[z.bruce.li]

The_Darkness Hi, pls keep us updated. It looks quite interesting, and quite useful once you sort out the vent and fast pour in/out mechanism.

Without fast vents, I guess for B&W it should still be doable in the dark since there are very few steps. But for any color work (E6, C41), we definitely need fast vents since there are lots of different chemicals and some of them have very short time and precise temperature control (e.g. 3.5 min at 100F for C41 color developer)

 

[Nokton48]

Hey Nokton,

On page 74, I posted some images of a custom daylight tank I had made. I still haven't gotten around to using it, but I'm curious what your thoughts are on filling and draining it. Filling it with 2.5L of fluid for each stage of development will be time consuming and I'm concerned about how that time will affect the development quality. For training, I can install a vent valve at the bottom, which will speed up draining when inverted. I think I will probably have to do the same and add a vent valve to the lid to expedite filling and so air doesn't have to pass the incoming fluid through the baffles.
I've even thought about installing ports with hoses to separate containers with the different chemicals already premixed, which will then use gravity to fill the tank. Then have a drain port on the bottom. Thoughts? What type of agitation would you recommend?

Hey The_Darkness:

First of all, Thanks for coming back and adding to the thread. I think your turbid Southern California HP5+ 70mm Underwater Hasselblad shots are awesome, and uber beautiful. B&W is really a great match IMO for this type of underwater scenery. BTW I got my NASDS scuba certification in 1975, I was seventeen. I was avidly into underwater photography at the time, was great fun and mucho adventurous. Actually not much good diving here in Ohio 🙄, but I went on some pretty good trips in Florida and Andros Island in the Bahamas 🙂

Your SS homemade developing tank looks amazing to me. I sometimes use the Big Kindermann 70mm tank, it takes about ninety seconds to fill, and also same time to dump. So not a tank to be used with quick acting developers. That's one reason that I like Legacy Mic-X from Freestyle, my normal developing time with that is eighteen minutes, sometimes longer. I've gone as long as 28 minutes, it's really slow acting which is what I am looking for, and so it works out better in the big tanks. BTW recently I have been shooting a hundred feet of fresh 35mm HP5+ at 1600 EI, and developing in HC-110 "B" for eighteen minutes at 20C. Shooting at 1600EI, then using Ilford's recommended times for 3200 EI development. The negs are -absolutely lovely-, with some grain but Hey! it's 1600. Maybe a bit more speed might help under those underwater conditions?

I invert the big Kindermann ten times a minute, which gives me a free cardio workout LOL. Yes I would install venting to speed up filling and dumping. That should help some. So looking forward to your future contributions. And Happy Holidays to you and your family

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Here's another scene from Isle of the Dead. Details below.


Graves, Isle Of The Dead
Tuesday 20th September 2022.
Camera: Hasselblad 500C/M SLR.
Lens: Carl Zeiss 80mm Planar f/2.8.
Film: Kodak Plus-X ISO 125 70mm black & white negative @ EI 80.
Exposure: 1/60 @ f/8.
Development: ID-11 1 + 3 20C/16m.

The Isle Of The Dead has made previous appearances in this thread. It was the final resting place of inmates incarcerated at the Van Diemen's Land 19th Century Port Arthur penal settlement. I'll include an image of the whole island for context.


Isle Of The Dead, Port Arthur
15th June 2021
Camera: Hasselblad 500C/M SLR.
Lens: Carl Zeiss 250mm Sonnar f/5.6.
Film: Agfa Aviphot 70mm black & white negative.
Development: Agfa Rodinal 1:50 20C/14m.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Hi Brett!

Looks like that original Plus-X is still in good condition 🙂 I am relieved 😉 I like this film in Legacy Microdol-X from Freestyle. I mix a gallon, last one was fine even after three and a half years. The mixture gets better after being replenished and "seasons" for a while. Works good in the Kindermann 70mm Tanks, they hold nearly a gallon. Classic deep tank developer that gets better with age. I think that film was from 1982 or so, last of the last of the original 70mm Plus-X. And of course D76 types are the go-to for original Plus-X. It is lovely stuff! EI 80 is about right, I like "beefy" negatives for printing on silver graded paper.

Sorry, Dan, I guess I missed this comment—but I had complete faith in you, knew it would shoot just fine. And thank you so much. I'm thrilled with it. 🙂

 

[Nokton48]

Good to hear, Brett. Thought you would enjoy using it. One of my fave 70mm films, Original Plus-X Pan. Being medium speed film it has really aged well! Good as new, I have four rolls I'm loading up in the long Patterson tanks. I can do two rolls of 70mm 24 exposures each, plus one 36 exposure roll of 35mm. Recently I've been using up some ERA100 I stocked up on. Plenty of different kinds of 70mm film to play with. 😎

-Aviphot 200 (ala Rollei 400s) from Agfa's Aerial Division. Apparently, Agfa Aerial will make some up if they get a big enough order?? PhotoImpex finally sold out of this, it is around!
-Kodak WL Surveillance Film, High Speed about EI 800 IMO. Faster than Tri-X, can be pushed way up there, need to experiment with pushing this.
-Kodak 2402 Plus-X Aerographic, the Guy in India has film that is proving here to be OK. The BEST deal 70mm is his "Six Pack" for around $240. That's $40 for a 100 roll Folks! Cheapo price!
-Tri-X Unperfed, this is 400 speed Tri-X, not 320EI Tri-X Pro. I love this film, bought it fresh from B&H and froze it.
-Ilford HP5+ FRESH from Ilford, I like this film at EI 250. I want to push it to EI 1600, it works great with the 35mm variety. MF HP5+ in 24 exposures is an expensive luxury worth it to me.

 

[z.bruce.li]

Nokton48 Hi, regarding the Aviphot 200, is your perforated or not? I recently bought three reels and was expecting double perforated. But after loading one cassette, I found out it was actually not perforated at all and cannot be used in the Hassy A70 cassettes.

On another note, what kind of ISO do you use for the Kodak 2402 Plus-X Aerographic from India? I only have Clayton F76 (similar to D76) and Ilford DD-X developers.

 

[Nokton48]

I shoot Kodak Aerographic 2402 Film at EI 100. Right now I am using D23 1:1 12 minutes at 68F. It behaves pretty much the same ad Regular Plus-X, I have been treating it as such. D76 should work great I would think. I do like the beefy negs I'm getting, kind of reminds me of Verichrome Pan in a way. I always shoot with a K2 yellow or Yellow-Green filter, as a matter of course. I like the film but handle it carefully, it likes to scratch. A friend suggests scanning it backwards (upside down), and the scratches go away.

My Rollei 400S I bought from PhotoImpex Germany, it is type II perforated stock. I also bought some fresh from an Aerial Mapping company in Florida, at the time they were online with Agfa Aerial. I bought some Aviphot 200 (same as Rollei 400s), and some Aviphot color neg from them as well.

Non-perforated 70mm can be run through the Graflex RH50 in a 4x5 Graflock Back type of camera. 6x7 format , can be perfed or non-perfed.

6x7cm 70mm Kodak 2402 Aero Film Perfed 1982 dated by Nokton48, on Flickr

This is the Makiflex Automatic with 240mm chrome barrel Schneider Tele-Xenar, a 2x3 lens that I have not used much. Graflex RH-50 70mm back 6x7cm/18 exp. Kodak Aerographic Plus-X 2402 type II perfed, developed in Paterson five reel tank with custom twin 70mm reels. D23 1:1 12 minutes at 73F produces a beefy negative easy to print. 8x10 Arista [NODE="2"]Forum[/NODE] RC developed in Multigrade. Omega DII laser aligned 180mm black Rodagon, I like using the Makiflexes in the studio with my olde Broncolor strobes. Classic Kelly lighting. Depth of ifeld is extremely limited in this setup, but the central buds of the flowers are sharp near the center of the print. This olde film has a softness that I like. Looks vintage and now retro

This film came to me recently in four 40 foot rolls. Dated 1982 took a chance on condition. Seems to be fine.

 

[Nokton48]

Just finished souping a short roll of Tri-X 400 unperforated, and a very long roll of 1982 Plus-X. Whatever magazine I was using seems to have a light leak, or is it the cartridge itself? Not sure but running it down is do-able. Several really keeper negatives in multiple on these rolls. I've been shooting dupes which helps with light leaking in terms of having perfect negatives.

Perhaps we should pool thoughts as many here have had light leaks with Hasselblad A70. BTW so my Graflex RH50's are the champs. Three run perfectly and I picked up a new fourth one at the local Used camera store for $60.

 

[The_Darkness]

Sounds good. Thanks!

I like the idea of longer development time. Less stressful. I have been doing research and learned that more frequent agitation increases contrast.
I keep tabs on the HP5 70mm rolls on all of the online retailers and recently saw that B&H took down the webpage for it. I e-mailed them and they had no information on whether they would be stocking it again. Perhaps the person was unaware of the ULF program. All of the other retailers were sold out, except for MacoDirect. So, I bought 4 rolls. A week later, curiously, I put in 5 rolls and the website said they only had 3 left, so I bought those as well. Haha.

I was hoping to dive in Monterey this weekend as the conditions were spectacular, perfect for the Hassy, but I got the f’ing flu. This is the third time I’ve been sick this year. Once with the Rona and twice with the flu. Anyways. I’m planning to dive with my mentor soon, Chuck Davis, who’s a professional photographer and cinematographer who was mentored by the legendary Ernie Brooks. Chuck still shoots medium format film and does all of his own darkroom work.

Hopefully my shots of the giant black sea bass from my Catalina Island trip last year come out. When it came up to me, I could barely see anything because my mask was fogging up so bad. Turns out the dive shop didn’t do a good enough job removing the glass film when I bought it. Luckily, with that SWC and the corrector lens, I just had to point and hopefully the camera settings were correct.

Chuck said that Ernie’s mantra was “125[SUP]th[/SUP] at f8 and be there.” Ernie was a master and rarely ever dove with a light meter. He would get into his “zen moment” and always knew the proper exposure. Ernie had a darkroom onboard his boat and could process his film straight out of the water. Chuck said that Ernie would only go down with an A12 back and sometime would surface with just a couple of exposures as he was always so focused on finding the right composition.

I’m really looking forward to diving and shooting with Chuck. I really lucked out that one of the guys at Backscatter in Monterey gave me his contact info and Chuck, so graciously, took me under his wing.

Yes, good to be back here. Cheers,

-Paul

 

[europanorama]

Agfa Aviphot Avipan 200. i have all possible prospectus also Aviphot Avicolor Films. 200 very grainy. old emulsion.
How about standdevelopping? iin YT there are instructions.In rotatingmachines: Jobo documentations telling how to rotate. no stand there obviously.
Bought electric rotator. the wrong one. get the black one not transparent one which isnt universale enough. and right universal psu. cable seperate.

 

[z.bruce.li]

One of the good use case for 70mm film is Panorama (6x12 or 6x17). For example, a roll of 120 film can only yield 4 frames of 6x17. But a fat roll of 70mm can probably yield many more photos without reloading.

I saw that zhorton has successfully made 6x10 out of the Graflex GH50 back, and wonder if there is any other method to achieve even wider panorama.

 

[Nokton48]

The Sleeper in the room is the Beatty Coleman Transet 70mm Graflock Back. It's pressure plate is 110mm across, it could fairly easily be cut out to that size or just a bit smaller. Big Crank "Em Brick House Construction. Takes it's own black metal spools, you need two of these. Must be loaded in the dark. It's a darkroom load and unload, you can get used to that. It is why some own multiple backs, I bought these three on Ebay, $25-$50 each, so not 'spensive.

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

This 70mm back has soft gummy rollers which pull through unperforated, or also perforated film stock. It doesn't care. This is a big deal, lots more choices out there, if you can shoot unperforated too. BTW the Graflex RH50 also shoots perforated or unperforated stock. The Transet shows great promise for adaption to Maxo wide format that the back will accommodate. The Beatty is well built, and "clicks" together with precision, which is a help in the dark. In the bottom photo you can see how empty inside it is.