Godox retro flash units?

[wlewisiii]

Has anyone tried any of the Godox retro flashes with their Nikon rangefinders? I'm thinking naughty thoughts about this one because it would also work well with my other cameras.

I really wish posting Amazon links worked correctly...

This is the company website:

Lux Master-Product-GODOX Photo Equipment Co.,Ltd.

Founded in 1993 as a high-tech manufacturing facility specializing in lighting and audio equipment, Godox has now become a lighting equipment expert and innovator of gears for photographers, videographers, filmmakers and more. Driven by the mission of offering great lighting and audio solutions...

www.godox.com

 

[Coldkennels]

I really like the Lux products aesthetically but don't really see any benefits to them other than that; most 1980s auto-thyristor flashes can be had for next to nothing, work just fine with comparative power outputs, are incredibly simple to use, and, as a bonus, "recharging them" just means sliding in two AA batteries.

I've owned a Vivitar Zoom Thyristor 2500 for years now, and that has a 90º bounce head, a GN of 25, full auto thyristor mode (using f/4 at 100 ISO - the Lux Master needs f/2.8), and as a bonus, also has an adjustable head that's optimisable for use with 28mm to 135mm lenses. All of that cost me less than £10... the comparable Lux Master is £235. Even if you weren't using rechargable AAs, you'd have to burn through a lot of alkalines to make up the difference.

The only thing I'm missing is HSS... but I'm pretty sure I can't use that with a screwmount Leica anyway!

 

[wlewisiii]

I think that's the voice of reason I need. I do like the idea of the potato masher format with, say, my Rollei & Nikon S2 or S4 but I bet there's an older one of those on Eprey too.

 

[justins7]

I use my Godox flash all the time and have paired it with my Nikon S3. Its size is a perfect compliment to small vintage cameras, especially those with PC ports (like the Nikon). It's a lot smaller than 1980s auto-thyristor flashes. The only drawback is the power dial, which is pretty loose, so you have to check the settings each time you take it out, or tape it.

I also use an Ulanzi LM20, bought from Amazon. It's rechargeable, last forever on a charge, and you can dial in the power. But does not have a PC port, so you need an adapter.

 

[wlewisiii]

Which Godox do you use?

 

[justins7]

The model I use is a Godox Lux Junior Retro, and when I need more of a potato masher experience I pair it with a folded mini tripod (via adapter —> tripod mount).

I am also really into using remote triggers, so I have the Godox and Ulanzi LM20 each with the flash receiver mounted on mini tripods. Remote trigger is on the camera.

 

[Coldkennels]

The model I use is a Godox Lux Junior Retro [...] it's a lot smaller than 1980s auto-thyristor flashes.

That's this one, right? Lux Junior-Product-GODOX Photo Equipment Co.,Ltd.

If so, I looked at that one when they first came out (it was the first Godox I saw). The spec sheet says it's got a GN of 12, and measures 73.8*50.2*71.8mm.

For comparison, my "pocket" auto-thyristor unit is a Sunpak auto140, pictured here on a Retina (stolen shamelessly from Flickr because I can't be bothered to take a photo of it myself):



Guide number of 14 at 100 ISO, and measures 60.3 x 40.85 x 70.9mm (inc. the shoe).

It's actually the smaller unit of the two, even if it sits taller (Godox = 266 cubic centimetres; Sunpak = 174.86 cubic centimetres in volume).

Again, unless you're specifically looking for TTL functionality, I really don't see the point in spending the £73 on the Godox option when £10 will get you the little auto140.

 

[agentlossing]

Again, unless you're specifically looking for TTL functionality, I really don't see the point in spending the £73 on the Godox option when £10 will get you the little auto140.

These Godox units mostly don't have TTL.

 

[Timmyjoe]

I tried the flash unit you have listed, the "Lux Master Retro Camera Flash" with my Nikon S2. I really wanted to love it, but alas, it was a no go.

The first of two things that killed it for me is that the flash unit itself does not have an "Auto" mode sensor built in. You need a separate sensor attached to a separate sync cord, to make the flash work in auto mode. Not a problem if you have a hot shoe on the camera (which the S2 does not) because that sensor/sync cord combo works great with a camera with a hot shoe. So that was the first issue.

The second issue is the flash bracket that holds the flash to the camera. It has a "knuckle" where you can loosen and fold the bracket up. But for the life of me, I could not get that knuckle tight enough with the attached thumb screw so that the flash unit wasn't "floppy", It wasn't extremely floppy, just when trying to hold the camera and flash set up by the big handle on the flash (so as to focus the S2), the weight of the camera overpowered the knuckle on the bracket and there was considerable movement.

Otherwise, it's a really cool flash.

Best,
-Tim

 

[Coldkennels]

These Godox units mostly don't have TTL.

Then I take my previous statement back: I really don't get the point at all.

Pretty, though.

 

[wlewisiii]

This seems to be a classic case of "if it seems to be too good to be true..."

Thank you folks for the information. I have a Sunpak Auto 522 Thyristor Flash that I'm looking at on Eprey that probably will actually do what I'd want for a fraction of the price.

 

[agentlossing]

Then I take my previous statement back: I really don't get the point at all.

Pretty, though.

Well, not quite that pointless. There is no such thing as TTL with Nikon rangefinders, right (see OP question)? With modern digital cameras, it's so easy to check results and dial manual flash up/down. I have a couple of the iFlash series of small Godox flashes, the iA32 and iM22. They're $50 or under, and the iM22 is TINY! Haven't used the iA32 much, but it's well built (better than my Lightlabs Q20), with a GN15 but covers 24mm, very nice wide coverage (and part of the reason why the GN is low).

For my money, spending under $50 is worth it for something you don't have to worry about (either the capacitor going wonky, or batteries corroding the contacts, can happen especially with vintage flash units) and is super compact. The iA32 has an auto mode which measures flash power with a sensor (many legacy flashes have this), so you dial in your aperture and ISO and it compensates. I'd do that if it were me with an old rangefinder, and call it a day!

 

[Coldkennels]

The iA32 has an auto mode which measures flash power with a sensor (many legacy flashes have this), so you dial in your aperture and ISO and it compensates. I'd do that if it were me with an old rangefinder, and call it a day!

The problem is that (from what I've seen) the auto modes on this little Godox flashes are seemingly standardised around f/2.8 at 100 ISO. Again, that's fine with digital (just rack up the ISO a bit to use a smaller aperture) but with film, that's far from ideal. I have precisely one LTM lens wider than 50mm which has an f/2.8 aperture... and zero medium format ones that go that fast. Also, I quite like using 50 ISO film (or slower if I can get it), which means I'm running into even more difficulty. The two electronic flashes I use both have f/4 as their aperture of choice for the auto setting at 100ISO, and even though that's only one stop of difference, it makes it much more useable.

That said, this is how I do flash more often than not now (unless I have to fly somewhere), which means I'm often running into the opposite problem (I don't have an aperture small enough...)

 

[agentlossing]

I'll have to experiment with the auto mode on this flash, and report back.

 

[shawn]

I have the Godox Lux Senior (bought used in a moment of weakness) and it is OK but nothing special. Fairly low power and while it does has a thyristor built in the auto mode is extremely limited. It is fixed at f2.8 ISO100.

An old Nikon SB24 is more powerful and way more flexible in auto mode. Cheaper too.

 

[agentlossing]

As I understand it, the iA32 lets you input aperture and ISO and calculates from there using the sensor. It might be limited as to what settings it'll let you enter, though. I'll give it a whirl soon.

 

[agentlossing]

Following up with the iA32, in Auto mode: it does let you dial in an aperture and ISO value. I kept the shutter speed at 125 and ISO at 100, and shot the left at f8 and the right at f2.8 from the same distance. While there's a slight difference (some of which may come down to diffusion from the older Pentax-F 50mm f1.7 at f2.8), it's very close.



I took a few more shots which I won't post, since they're just random apartment shots, but it did well filling in some books which were backlit by cloud-diffused window light, and it read light on the subject with flash bounced off the ceiling as well.

I should do some further tests outside at greater distances, but, so far, I like what it can do! Seems very fitting for a film camera. Heck, you could use it on a camera without any meter and theoretically you could get decent flash walkaround shots without doing any metering. If only my Pen F had a hot shoe...

 

[agentlossing]

A shot of the interface on the back of the flash:

 

[TenEleven]

Just wanted to pop in and second what Coldkennels said, I have a bunch of Sunpaks in my closet and that's all the flashes I need.

I want to add something, which is visible in the picture posted, but still bears pointing out: Namely almost all of these Sunpaks have a built in sync cord. Which is stowed in the back of the flash (when stowed it connects the base to the flash making it a hot-shoe flash). Which means as long as you have the flash and batteries you're good!

Also they last forever on Eneloop pros!

I do get the appeal of the retro apperance of that Godox, it just looks "right" on some cameras. But man it also seems like it would be a bit of a hassle to carry around. Especially since often I have more than one camera and also a change of lenses and film on me already.

 

[Coldkennels]

Also they last forever on Eneloop pros!

Can confirm. One eight-pack of good quality rechargeable AAs (which have really improved in quality since the 90's) and a charger goes a long way, and means you never get caught short while out-and-about - just drop in two more.

I used to own some real battery-hungry monsters years ago, but I'm always impressed by how much that little Sunpak can do off two AAs. And, like you said, it'll work just fine on my M240* or Leica IIIf without having to carry any extra adapters or cables to lose.

*just make sure you check trigger voltages and safe limits before using it on digital - I measured it at 44.5v with a multimeter. The M240 can handle that, but I know some early DSLRs definitely can't!