Peter_S
Peter_S
Hi!
I was wondering: does anybody here use tanks (Jobo) with 4 (135) spools regularly? I am thinking about using one for future development (for 2x2 spools of 120 though), but I am not sure if there may be issues due to longer filling times and such.
Experiences, opinions?
Thanks!
Peter
I was wondering: does anybody here use tanks (Jobo) with 4 (135) spools regularly? I am thinking about using one for future development (for 2x2 spools of 120 though), but I am not sure if there may be issues due to longer filling times and such.
Experiences, opinions?
Thanks!
Peter
KenD
Film Shooter
I use a Paterson 5 reel tank. I have had no problems... but I always use longer development times - usually 12 minutes. I would be cautious about attempting short development times with a multi-reel tank.
KenD
KenD
benji77
@R.F.F
I was not aware that development times should be extended for larger tanks. I myself was thinking of getting the 4-reel Paterson for quicker work, especially if you have the same ISO ratings for film. The only silly thing is that you will have to buy the reels separately, and that costs quite a fair bit!
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
I use a Jobo tank stack of a 1520 + 2x 1530 extension parts. I can develop 8x 35mm or 10x 120, or a combination of the two. Sometimes I configure them differently to develop less also.
The pouring time is a concern, although I find the jobo tanks are easy to pour accurately quickly. I only do rotation development, mostly c41, which means there is much less liquid in the tank as compared to inversion. I have done b+w inversion developing with the big stack, but it is too much, and I actually get leaks from the pressure of the liquid.
Doing a stack of 4 or 5 is probably the sweet spot if you are doing inversion. The jobo tanks are a great system that you can tailor to your needs.
The pouring time is a concern, although I find the jobo tanks are easy to pour accurately quickly. I only do rotation development, mostly c41, which means there is much less liquid in the tank as compared to inversion. I have done b+w inversion developing with the big stack, but it is too much, and I actually get leaks from the pressure of the liquid.
Doing a stack of 4 or 5 is probably the sweet spot if you are doing inversion. The jobo tanks are a great system that you can tailor to your needs.
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
I just got an LPL 35mm x 4 tank w/ the reels. I only have 3 reels ATM, but will get a 4th soon. I've got 2x 120 reels. My bigger problem is getting the film on the reel. 
No problems using times on the massive dev chart, but note that I've only developed stuff w/ a 10+ minute inversion development, or 45 minute+ stand. The time to get the chemicals in is a slight concern. I actually read about this on Amazon before I bought the tank. It uses less for the same rolls of film though. 35mm x 1 = 240ml. But again, it's much less of an issue w/ longer development times... mathematically anyway.
Rag by gaijin_punch, on Flickr
No problems using times on the massive dev chart, but note that I've only developed stuff w/ a 10+ minute inversion development, or 45 minute+ stand. The time to get the chemicals in is a slight concern. I actually read about this on Amazon before I bought the tank. It uses less for the same rolls of film though. 35mm x 1 = 240ml. But again, it's much less of an issue w/ longer development times... mathematically anyway.
Rag by gaijin_punch, on Flickr
Ronald M
Veteran
They fill fine as there is a center funnel and it fills bottom up without developer running over film marking it. Pour out is less critical.
A stainless tanks for 4 rolls is best prefilled and reels immersed with a lift rod
A stainless tanks for 4 rolls is best prefilled and reels immersed with a lift rod
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I've never worked with a Jobo, but I always use 4 reel stainless steel tanks for normal hand processing. The 4-reel tanks hold four 35mm or two 120 rolls, and since I shoot mostly 120, this is convenient. I have never had problems with uneven developing.
M.Hilo
Established
For my five or three (135 - 120) reel tanks (Combina) I feel it is essential to prefill the developer and stopbath. So, I work with two tanks and the lift rod
- Tank 1 is loaded with film, tank 2 with developer.
- In the dark I lift the rod with the five films out of tank 1 and into tank 2.
- While developing I prepare the stopbath in tank 1
- at the end of the developing the lights go off again and I lift the five films back into tank 1.
After the films are in the stopbath, the timing is less strict. I prepare the fix, turn off the lights again and put the films in the tank with the fix.
With the smaller Combina tanks (1 or 2 reels) to fill goes very quick, so I do it all in the light . . .
- Tank 1 is loaded with film, tank 2 with developer.
- In the dark I lift the rod with the five films out of tank 1 and into tank 2.
- While developing I prepare the stopbath in tank 1
- at the end of the developing the lights go off again and I lift the five films back into tank 1.
After the films are in the stopbath, the timing is less strict. I prepare the fix, turn off the lights again and put the films in the tank with the fix.
With the smaller Combina tanks (1 or 2 reels) to fill goes very quick, so I do it all in the light . . .
Livesteamer
Well-known
Long ago in college, when I was shooting three or four rolls a day for newspaper and yearbook, I would wind two rolls of 35, back to back, on one stainless reel. I could get four rolls in my double tank that way and never had a problem. If you do this, take the rolls off the reel for wash. Joe
Peter_S
Peter_S
Hi!
Thank you for the useful input. I may only do this with longer development times or the forgiving FP4+ (which I soup in ID-11 1+3 and 15-20min). The Deltas I may just in the regular 120 tank.
I like Machiel's idea/technique, though, and may try that too.
Cheers!
Pete
Thank you for the useful input. I may only do this with longer development times or the forgiving FP4+ (which I soup in ID-11 1+3 and 15-20min). The Deltas I may just in the regular 120 tank.
I like Machiel's idea/technique, though, and may try that too.
Cheers!
Pete
kkdanamatt
Well-known
I agree with Ken. The Paterson 5-reeler is a good choice, and for critical use I always used processing times of at least 10 minutes because of the extra time it takes to fill and dump the chemicals. That eliminates uneven results. My choice was Tri-X and HC-110 or Plus-X and Rodinal @1:50.
I would fill the tank with developer before I began to load the film onto the reels. Then I'd stack the reels onto the long rod and load the rod into the tank. That way all the reels were submerged at the same time.
presspass
filmshooter
I use a four-reel Jobo tank for hand/inversion processing of black and white film. I use it regularly and have never had a problem with uneven development. I fill and empty the tank through the lid (daylight) rather than fill the tank and then drop the reels and stem in. They can leak at the rubber lid, but that's not a problem if you make sure it's sealed tightly and hold it when doing the inversion.
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
I find with a large jobo tank if I grab the body with one hand, and squeeze it a bit, it sometimes will leak. If I pick it up to invert it with two hands, which is the proper way, it is fine.
M.Hilo
Established
I developed since 1978, always in Rodinal 1+25. Then Adox which they say is the same stuff, so I do the same. FP4 8 minutes, Tmax 400 6 minutes. I print up to 20X24 from 135 and 120 film negs.
These developing times are quite ok to do the more complicated 5 reel developing. Just make sure you're not talking with someone at the same moment . . .
Peter_S
Peter_S
Hi all, thanks again. I have now developed several rolls, just pouring in and using 1+3 dilutions ID-11 for FP4+, the 17-19 min developing times compansate nicely for the slight delay of the developer reaching the upper rolls. For Acros and Ultrafin (6.15min) I use one reel, but I do not shoot that combination as much.