4 rolls of negatives came out blank!

[jon2512chua]

tmkr and Zathros partially got it right, seems like Ilfosol 3 is supposed to be clear to light yellow, my unmixed developer started off brown, so it was pretty oxidised by then. This explains my fairly recent issue where my negatives are always thinner than expected, even after overexposing them by 1-2 stops every time. Have always thought that there's something wrong with my 2 cameras' lightmeter, handheld lightmeter, and my more recent readings of sunny 16.

But the real culprit is that Ilfosol 3 is a one shot developer, I used the same mix for all 6 rolls. Should have read the manual for it instead of assuming that it works like some others.

 

[farlymac]

Solved! Yeah, the old one shot stuff can get you every time.:bang:

PF

 

[Ronald M]

Developer color should have been a clue to the most casual observer.

Some developers do not change color so you can not count on it. Extol & the similar Ilford product, DD-X

 

[michaelwj]

Nothing really to add, but when this happens to me for any reason (bad loading, lens cap on, wrong dev) I know that they were all Pulitzer Prize winning photos.

So, congratulations on taking 4 rolls of Pulitzer winners! I've never had that many at once!

 

[kehng]

 

[John Bragg]

Ilfosol S had a reputation for sudden death like Xtol and the Ilfosol 3 is supposed to be better in this respect, but again, as you realise by now, it should only ever be used one shot. Ilfotec HC has a much longer shelf life and may be a better bet for you. Kodak HC-110 is legendary for keeping well and it is all I use these days. A one litre bottle can last literally years !

 

[x-ray]

Film development is a reduction / oxidation process , REDOX. The development agent reduces silver halide on the film to metallic silver and the development agent is oxidized as part of the process. In this case the redox reaction has nothing to do with air.

Oxidation of your developer occurs both from the development process and exposure to air. One shot and very dilute developers oxidize quickly and deplete quickly. One shot means one shot not six shots.

If you want a developer you can reuse over and over use full strength D76, UFG, Acufine or similar and REPLENISH as per the instructions using the appropriate replenisher. It's critical you use full strength not dilute developer and keep precise track of square inches of fill processed and replenish exactly as the instructions say. Replenishment works very well and many of us old timers like developing in a seasoned solution. I refer to seasoned because bromide and other byproducts build up in the replenished solution. Many of us old timers like what these byproducts do to the final result.

If you replenish properly you can use the same volume of replenisher over time to extend the life of your developer.

If you see brown developer other than concentrated Rodinal, discard it because it's oxidized and no good. Many developers when fresh have a straw or yellow color which is ok but brown is bad.

 

[newsgrunt]

clip test that are done in daylight only confirm developer activity. I would;t trust that, as some people suggest elsewhere, to determine times. a proper clip test (as professional labs would do) involves sacrificing a few frames

but yeah, reiterate the fix first theory. unless the developer was absolutel toast, you would still have very faint edge marks.

 

[coogee]

I just developed a roll using brown Ilfosol-3, stupid me. 🙁
The entire film is 100% blank, not even a hint of development.

I'm 100% certain the Ilfosol 3 was brown and that I used dev, stop, fix in that order.
Sorry for your (and my) loss OP.

Now we both have a new rule, 'if it's brown put it down'.

I thought I'd 'treat' that roll to the last of the Ilfosol 3.
Not much of a treat as it (didn't) turn out.