50mm f/1.4 options for the M mount.

I bought the lens from PopFlash. I heard that some of the lenses were being optimised for 1.5. I asked about it, but they had no knowlege of whether it was or not at the time. You know, if we're hand holding, we are seldom perfectly still and normal body movement can probably have as much of an impact on the thin plane of focus. Mabe mine cancels out the focus shift.
 
IMO you should stick to the Nokton. Your problem doesn't seem to be very heav but If you have the money, get the Summilux. The Noctilux is just a beast (not IQ wise).
 
1/ Yes, my f/1.1 had the same problem with screws, right from the start. I lifted the screws a bit and put one tiny drop of shellac on the threads--just enough to wet them--and they've held, since. I think that they must have done something like that at the factory and some lenses were missed because this doesn't seem to be a common problem, while at the same time four tiny screws in this spot don't seem to me like the ideal solution without something to stick them in there.

2/ The 50/1.4 Canon is no worse than any of my modern Nikon lenses wide open, which is to say, not perfect. I think, however, that it gets used wide open more than DSLR lenses do, so the lack of perfection wide open is broadcast more. My AF-D 85/1.8 Nikkor is MUCH worse until a stop or two down. Much worse. So much for "modern".
 
Is the Summilux 50mm f/1.4 the only option to upgrade to?

No, but you can't go wrong with it, in either the ASPH or pre-ASPH versions (E46 or E43 II). If the Lux 50 is too pricey, 2nd choice imho would be the CV Nokton 50 f/1.5, a kind of lower contrast version of the pre-ASPH.

If you can manage without f/1.4 speed, the ZM Planar 50 is pretty wonderful all-around.
 
the easiest thing is to put some blue loctite on the screws.

since you're getting a 240 or 262, i'd get the summilux asph, the new nokton, or the c-sonnar optimized for f1.5.
 
SLR Magic T0.95, Leica Mount (look for the rangefinder coupled version) is another option. But I can't recall if it has any focus shift or not. FYI, I was given a quote of US$ 4,288 (with shipping) in March 2012, with 3 years warranty, including parts and labor.

Since the said issue is critical in your case, I'm guessing you'd like to avoid buying ZM Sonnar. So you might as well go for the 50 Summilux ASPH. Of course there is Noctilux F0.95m, the lovely elephant in the room. 🙂
 
SLR Magic T0.95, Leica Mount (look for the rangefinder coupled version) is another option. But I can't recall if it has any focus shift or not. FYI, I was given a quote of US$ 4,288 (with shipping) in March 2012, with 3 years warranty, including parts and labor.

Since the said issue is critical in your case, I'm guessing you'd like to avoid buying ZM Sonnar. So you might as well go for the 50 Summilux ASPH. Of course there is Noctilux F0.95m, the lovely elephant in the room. 🙂

Or, get a Canon 50/1.4 for $288, and "save" the extra $4000 for other things in life.
 
Is the Summilux 50mm f/1.4 the only option to upgrade to?
In the vein of several previous comments:

The Lux ASPH can be had now as low as 2300. The only better performing f/1.4 lens in the world is the OTUS.

If that's too rich, the go to fast 50 is the CV 50/1.5 which is an improved Leica pre-asph 50/1.4. Puts has a great comparison of all three of these 50s.

The 50 Lux ASPH is one of the few lenses I still crave. 🙂

I have the Canon 50s, and the CV 50 1.1, and others, but none are in the league of the ASPH Lux
 
clear nail polish just under the screw head. loosen with acetone if ever required.

just a dab. too much and you will strip the screw getting it out.

all my cv lenses are not the best construction.
 
The OP doesn't say if they're budget-conscious, but for fast glass 'on-the-cheap', there is the Jupiter-3 50mm F1.5 ... It's a Sonnar clone, and the 'Red Pi' version has better coatings (supposedly). A quick search on eBay shows the LTM version going for ~ $250 USD, and the Contax-mount version for half that.

And the OP doesn't like it, they can always re-sell it and probably get their money back.

Here's a sample image shot wide-open with the Jupiter-3 on my M 240. Not bad for a 50+ year old lens (the flare was intentional, but easily corrected with a lens hood).


21395103276_9e9baa1041_z.jpg
 
I agree with Helen. A 50/2 is hard to beat.
This one is from a Zeiss Sonnar 5cm/2 on a Contax IIa.

U3565I1204728618.SEQ.0.jpg


Rigid Summicron 50/2:

U3565I1252870293.SEQ.0.jpg


The Zeiss Sonnar 5cm 1.5 this time:

U3565I1231380799.SEQ.0.jpg

U3565I1233466766.SEQ.0.jpg



Canon 50/1.2

med_U3565I1365868147.SEQ.2.jpg


Original Nokton with adapter to M:


med_U3565I1445647485.SEQ.0.jpg
 
FWIW here's a shot from Summer 2015, taken with the modern Nokton 50mm F1.5 ASPH (black) on my M 240. Lens was wide-open, focus on the center of the flower.

Even at reduced-for-web resolution, you can see the crisp details in the focal plane. The background melts away in a pleasant painterly way.

20629587864_b4bfacdae4_z.jpg
 
I have an use the Sonnar the Nokton and Summilux 50's and have not experienced any problems. Maybe just lucky with the copies I have.

Good luck with your decision.

MM ~Sonnar-C 50/1.5

17140835853_b6d8df5471_c.jpg


MP ~ VC 50/1.5 LTM

6151644509_8ae5de7580_z.jpg


M9 ~ Lux 50/1.4

6001053866_27de868f48_z.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom