70mm Film FUN up ahead

Jake Mongey said:
Where is the rubber wheel on the magazine? I dont think it actually has pictures of where it is
Click to expand...

That picture does not show the sprocket, the back is angled so it is hidden. :bang:

See the removable "thumbscrew" with the knurling on it (the last picture in the set). You press your finger against the screw, put pressure on it, and twist. The sprocket comes right out. But you must be extra careful to put it back the same way, and there is a thin brass washer, that must go on top of the sprocket during reassembly.

That's all there is to it Look again at the instruction book I posted below
 
Here I have removed the O-ring from the "rubber wheel", so I could compare the original Hasselblad sprocket, to the adapted one.

The dimensions are EXACTLY the same. If you filed off the "spikes" on the original sprocket, and cut a channel all around to hold the O-ring, that should be successful and work well.

Cal you could get the precise dimensions to 3D print this, from the original A70 spiked "sprocket".

Appears quite do-able! 🙂

A70 Rubber Wheel 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr


DSC05806 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
Nokton48 said:
Here I have removed the O-ring from the "rubber wheel", so I could compare the original Hasselblad sprocket, to the adapted one.

The dimensions are EXACTLY the same. If you filed off the "spikes" on the original sprocket, and cut a channel all around to hold the O-ring, that should be successful and work well.

Cal you could get the precise dimensions to 3D print this, from the original A70 spiked "sprocket".

Appears quite do-able! 🙂
Click to expand...

Dan,

I talked with my private Linhof consultant last night, and he says one step at a time. I was going to PM you to inquire about the instruction manual and to gather details, but you already did. Basically to convert an A70 Hassy back all one needs is an O-ring that is sized correctly and the "pulley."

I am a really good salesman so I convinced my PLC to consider this project. Great thing is that the part that needs to be 3-D printed is small to keep costs down. The business model is 3-D print on demand so really all we are exploiting is my PLC's talents, education and training, and basically he wants to limit interaction with the public.

So how did I suddenly become an agent? LOL.

So let's keep the momentum going. Hopefully we don't bid against each other on A70 backs.

Looks like we have a go.

Dan would you be our tester and be part of the development team? I think it would be great for you to test the prototype because: you are familiar with the the mod; and because my PLC and I lack the hardware for testing.

Cal
 
Calzone said:
So let's keep the momentum going. Hopefully we don't bid against each other on A70 backs.

Dan would you be our tester and be part of the development team? I think it would be great for you to test the prototype because: you are familiar with the the mod; and because my PLC and I lack the hardware for testing.
Click to expand...

Cal,

Sure I'd be willing to do some testing for this project. There is so much unperfed B&W and color film out there that makes this project really worthwhile. I have enough A70 backs for now. Do you have Hasselblads? I also used this with Hartblei 1006, which is a P6 Russian Hasselbladski that was modified to take Blad backs. Now that was pretty out there! 😎

You should try to figure out how to do this with Linhof. The world opens up when you can use unperfed film
 
Nokton48 said:
Cal,

Sure I'd be willing to do some testing for this project. There is so much unperfed B&W and color film out there that makes this project really worthwhile. I have enough A70 backs for now. Do you have Hasselblads? I also used this with Hartblei 1006, which is a P6 Russian Hasselbladski that was modified to take Blad backs. Now that was pretty out there! 😎
Click to expand...

Dan,

Thanks for joining the team. You are a key player because I do not own a Blad yet, and my "PLC" does not either.

One of my tricks to set the hook was to mention the unperforated Portra that my "PLC" bought mistakenly to use in a Linhof CINE. BTW he is primarily a color shooter.

Another name for him is I could call him "Mr. JOBO" since he uses a processor and does color.

With Linhofs the information is very scattered and it is not widely published, so "Mr. JOBO" is a great reference for Linhof. I think because of the lack of information that Linhofs remain a very quirky camera that seems to remain under the radar.

Cal
 
Cal,

Do you need a manual for the Cine Rollex? It is here:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/linhof/linhof_cine_rollex/linhof_cine_rollex.htm.

Stefan

Calzone said:
Dan,

Thanks for joining the team. You are a key player because I do not own a Blad yet, and my "PLC" does not either.


One of my tricks to set the hook was to mention the unperforated Portra that my "PLC" bought mistakenly to use in a Linhof CINE. BTW he is primarily a color shooter.

Another name for him is I could call him "Mr. JOBO" since he uses a processor and does color.

With Linhofs the information is very scattered and it is not widely published, so "Mr. JOBO" is a great reference for Linhof. I think because of the lack of information that Linhofs remain a very quirky camera that seems to remain under the radar.

Cal
Click to expand...
 
Stefan Wood said:
Cal,

Do you need a manual for the Cine Rollex? It is here:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/linhof/linhof_cine_rollex/linhof_cine_rollex.htm.

Stefan
Click to expand...

Stefan,

Thanks for the link. I already mined that site.

Funny thing is that I have many of the original Linhof manuals and even boxes for Graphmatics. Emphemera from 1958 is mucho cool.

Currently at work I modified some 35mm spools to use as adapters for my Topcon 250 exposure respooler. There is a kinda built in bushing on the spool that seems engineered to fit concentrically into the Cine sproketed shafts as intrface adapters.

Cal
 
Hmmm seems to me that turning these on a lathe might be more efficient and in better tolerance (than to 3d print). and who knows there might already be a ready made pulley that size out there to buy.

Calzone said:
Dan,

I talked with my Private Linhof Consultant last night, and he says one step at a time. I was going to PM you to inquire about the instruction manual and to gather details, but you already did. Basically to convert an A70 Hassy back all one needs is an O-ring that is sized correctly and the "pulley."

I am a really good salesman so I convinced my PLC to consider this project. Great thing is that the part that needs to be 3-D printed is small to keep costs down. The business model is 3-D print on demand so really all we are exploiting is my PLC's talents, education and training, and basically he wants to limit interaction with the public.

So how did I suddenly become an agent? LOL.

So let's keep the momentium going. Hopefully we don't bid against each other on A70 backs.

Looks like we have a go.

Dan would you be our tester and be part of the development team? I think it would be great for you to test the prototype because: you are familiar with the the mod; and because my PLC and I lack the hardware for testing.

Cal
Click to expand...
 
Another option would be to manufacture the wheels on a jewelers lathe.
I've been looking at Taig jewelers lathes and they seem a lot more robust than the Unimats.

Would be great for making small camera parts
 
Here is something interesting I own. This is a "Keith" 70mm long roll 6x9cm long roll back. It is fully manual, simple to operate, nothing to break, really. It holds up to 100 feet (or shorter rolls!) of 70mm unperforated or perforated film. It fits a Graflock 4x5 back, so it will fit a Speed Graphic, or my Sinar Normas. It fits my Plaubel Makiflexes, but the camera rear frame is not robust enough to support the weight of it. But it will fit and work on my Normas just fine 🙂 Takes two Kodak 100' 70mm film spools inside (you get these with rolls of 70mm Kodak film)

It has a flashlight mechanism on the other side, where you inside an ID card, and it will print it on the film edge. Pretty low tech, but interesting and cool.

I bought this for thirty Bucks on Ebay years ago.

DSC05808 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
OK I am seriously moving forward with this scenario. Went in the darkroom, and loaded three rolls of 70mm. Two are the type II perfed Kodak Surveillance, and one is fresh EFKE R100 unperfed I bought closeout from J&C. Efke 100 is one of my favorite emulsions, I was sorry to see it go away! 🙁

The WL Surveillance will go in the Hasselblad A70's, and the Efke will go into my Beatty Coleman Transet 70mm back. This gives me a 6x8cm 70mm negative, similar to the format of the Fuji GX680 (I have cannibalized all the GX680 lenses to fit my Makiflexes) 😎

Notice I have carefully taped and labeled the cartridges. No more mistakes! Also note the pile of Kodak 70mm "film clips" in the upper left. These should come with the 70mm cartridge. This allows the roll to "roll-off" the unexposed film spool, and roll into the takeup cartridge, without damaging the camera. If you don't have clips, I guess you could use a bit of tape to accomplish the same thing.

There is a Kodak 70mm metal storage can that is good for storing exposed and unexposed rolls.

DSC05809 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
I tried loading Efke 100 into the A70 with the "rubber wheel" and so far, no luck getting it to function. So I decided to transfer the film in the cartridge into the Beatty Coleman 70mm back. This back,. it turns out, does not use Kodak cassettes. I had forgotten that. It uses it's own special film spools, which luckily are in the back. Instructions say you can load it in subdued lighting, but you will lose some frames. So I loaded it in the darkroom and it went OK.

Here is the back loaded with 55 exposures of Efke 100. It is attached to my Makiflex Standard. The lens is a Fuji GX680 135mm f5.6 Fujinon which I hacked to fit the Makiflex cameras.

DSC05810 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Ready to use!! 🙂
 
Here is the 70mm Jobo 2502 reel that I built today. I cut the column apart with a hacksaw, and slipped a 35mm film can (Efke KB21 plastic film can!) over the column, and then glued it together. I used a short-end of type II perfed to get the reel spacing just right.

70mm 2502 Jobo Reel by Nokton48, on Flickr

Good to go.

This reel will take up to 24 exposures (or thereabouts!) of 70mm perfed or unperfed film, and fits in a Jobo Multitank 5 or 6. Perfect for test developing and shorter rolls. Like when I don't need 55 or 70 exposures. And I can add some 35mm, or 120 to fill up the tank. 🙂
 
Here I have loaded a full length "dummy roll" onto my new Jobo 70mm reel. Actually I think it would be useful to have more than one of these reels. This will fit the Jobo Multitanks; even the single Multitank 2 one I believe. Will have to check that. I know it will fit my Multitank 5 and Multitank 6. USEFUL!!

Jobo reel 70mm Dummy full load by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
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