70mm Film FUN up ahead

Nokton48 said:
Gorgeous Cool Stuff. Love it. This is Art.

Pyro + will give you a smoother neg especially in the mids and highs. Plus "Mackie Lines" due to the adjacent effect, which enhances the overall tonalities. Makes sense to use it here. I'm going back to using it myself after thirty years.

I'll be running some 220 length rolls here shortly. 1992 WL Surveillance Kodak, 1982 vintage Plus-X Pan, fresh Rollei 400s, and fresh Ilford HP5+.

I like the Garibaldi peeking from behind the kelp floor
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Cool, thanks! Could I still stain some of these? What effect, if any, would it have? Any recommendations? I have plenty of negs that I don't care about and can experiment with.
 
The_Darkness said:
Cool, thanks! Could I still stain some of these? What effect, if any, would it have? Any recommendations? I have plenty of negs that I don't care about and can experiment with.
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I think you could rewet the negs and stain them, although Hutchings dosen't stain anymore. Seems stain adds uniform base density, but there really isn't much advantage to that I've read. You just have to burn through the extra density during printing, it doesn't change tonality at all. I'll have to reread that part of the book.

Tom Abrahamsson told me Pyro negatives were more difficult to scan, but I don't see why it would be any different than scanning a color neg with orange base mask. I make B&W silver prints so I always stained, I just reused the Pyro and then washed until the stain maxed out
 
Nokton48 said:
The_Darkness said:
Cool, thanks! Could I still stain some of these? What effect, if any, would it have? Any recommendations? I have plenty of negs that I don't care about and can experiment with.
Click to expand...

I think you could rewet the negs and stain them, although Hutchings dosen't stain anymore. Seems stain adds uniform base density, but there really isn't much advantage to that I've read. You just have to burn through the extra density during printing, it doesn't change tonality at all. I'll have to reread that part of the book.

Tom Abrahamsson told me Pyro negatives were more difficult to scan, but I don't see why it would be any different than scanning a color neg with orange base mask. I make B&W silver prints so I always stained, I just reused the Pyro and then washed until the stain maxed out
Click to expand...
So, when using Pyro, you just use it normally and then don't put the film back in the developer after fixing?
 
Your two digis of the Sekonic meters I can see, all the rest are links that still will not open.

These initial underwater ones are so exceedingly good I'm sure many here are waiting to see them. 🙂
 
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