Darthfeeble
But you can call me Steve
This might be of interest to you film folk. https://www.lewiskemper.com/page/klic2copy-film-digital-copier
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Delighted to see innovation happening in this space, but lots of questions looking at the one photo...
- How precise?
- Vibration free?
- Shutter speed, with that light panel, unless it's brighter than typical light panel, you'll be shooting at ~1/4 sec.
- How precise?
- Vibration free?
- Shutter speed, with that light panel, unless it's brighter than typical light panel, you'll be shooting at ~1/4 sec.
Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
Prices are shown at the bottom of the page, below the images of the scanner set-up.
Tim Gray
Well-known
I've thought about making a copy stand for negative scanning from 80/20. I'm too lazy though. We use 80/20 all the time at work, but I don't have to cut it and assemble it 
Darthfeeble
But you can call me Steve
This is a creation of a Pro photog by the name of Lewis Kemper, he is a contributing editor for Outdoor Photographer as well as other things photographic. Our club had him speak a couple times and as he is a local boy, I felt the need to promote his stuff. I imaging he would be happy to answer any questions. One thing I do know about it, a macro lens is required.
Scottboarding
Established
I agree with the rest, but I don't understand this one. I use the Slimelight Plano and a Nikon adapter so I'm regularly shooting at 1/4th or slower since the adapter blocks some light. It's never been any issue for me and I can't see how my process would greatly improve shooting at 1/100th of a second.- Shutter speed, with that light panel, unless it's brighter than typical light panel, you'll be shooting at ~1/4 sec.
peterm1
Veteran
For people who occasionally want to digitize a film and of course already have a good macro lens and do not wish to buy a special device.
One hack I have tried for digitizing film (both negatives and slides) is to use the screen of a computer tablet as the light box / back light source. An app can be found for this (I cannot recall its name). The app just puts out bright light consistently from the LCD and I think from memory its brightness and color can be varied as needed.
I found that one problem with this is that the light from a tablets screen is pixelated and this definitely shows up on the final result when using a good macro lens. So you will also need to mount a semi clear neutrally colored translucent plastic filter on the tablet's screen to diffuse the pixelated light emanating from the screen. I fudged one from a white translucent plastic document sleeve bought for pennies from a stationery store specifically for this purpose. Of course you will also need a tripod which can orient your camera to the tablet - the most convenient way is to orient the camera facing the ground / table with the tablet laying flat.
I have tried it once or twice as an experiment but I have not gone back (yet) as I have been busy with more interesting stuff - but I do intend experimenting more when both need and time available coincide. I still have quite a few old negatives I could scan but have been reluctant to buy kit for this purpose as it is not a high priority for me.
One hack I have tried for digitizing film (both negatives and slides) is to use the screen of a computer tablet as the light box / back light source. An app can be found for this (I cannot recall its name). The app just puts out bright light consistently from the LCD and I think from memory its brightness and color can be varied as needed.
I found that one problem with this is that the light from a tablets screen is pixelated and this definitely shows up on the final result when using a good macro lens. So you will also need to mount a semi clear neutrally colored translucent plastic filter on the tablet's screen to diffuse the pixelated light emanating from the screen. I fudged one from a white translucent plastic document sleeve bought for pennies from a stationery store specifically for this purpose. Of course you will also need a tripod which can orient your camera to the tablet - the most convenient way is to orient the camera facing the ground / table with the tablet laying flat.
I have tried it once or twice as an experiment but I have not gone back (yet) as I have been busy with more interesting stuff - but I do intend experimenting more when both need and time available coincide. I still have quite a few old negatives I could scan but have been reluctant to buy kit for this purpose as it is not a high priority for me.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
My NIB Plustek scanner cost me much less and takes less space than this bunch of planks.
Not to mention need to purchase macro lens.
Not to mention need to purchase macro lens.
filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
That takes up a lot more space then my scanner does
BillBingham2
Registered User
Thanks for sharing.
Interesting approach.
B2 (;->
Interesting approach.
B2 (;->
Huss
Veteran
$625?
Lessee.. my copy stand - $150. LED light panel - $20. Digitiliza film holder that also covers pano and 6x9 which his does not - $30.
Total? $200.
Lessee.. my copy stand - $150. LED light panel - $20. Digitiliza film holder that also covers pano and 6x9 which his does not - $30.
Total? $200.
Greyscale
Veteran
For people who occasionally want to digitize a film and of course already have a good macro lens and do not wish to buy a special device.
One hack I have tried for digitizing film (both negatives and slides) is to use the screen of a computer tablet as the light box / back light source. An app can be found for this (I cannot recall its name). The app just puts out bright light consistently from the LCD and I think from memory its brightness and color can be varied as needed.
I found that one problem with this is that the light from a tablets screen is pixelated and this definitely shows up on the final result when using a good macro lens. So you will also need to mount a semi clear neutrally colored translucent plastic filter on the tablet's screen to diffuse the pixelated light emanating from the screen. I fudged one from a white translucent plastic document sleeve bought for pennies from a stationery store specifically for this purpose. Of course you will also need a tripod which can orient your camera to the tablet - the most convenient way is to orient the camera facing the ground / table with the tablet laying flat.
I have tried it once or twice as an experiment but I have not gone back (yet) as I have been busy with more interesting stuff - but I do intend experimenting more when both need and time available coincide. I still have quite a few old negatives I could scan but have been reluctant to buy kit for this purpose as it is not a high priority for me.
The app is called, appropriately enough, Light Table. I have found that raising the negative several millimeters above the tablet alleviate s the pixelation problem, I used my iPad for several months in this manner, but found an LED light panel for about &14 on eBay that provides a brighter source without the pixel problem.
Greyscale
Veteran
I like the horizontal concept, but the footprint is much bigger than a vertical setup, too big for my use. Nice if you have the space.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Great idea on an old theme.
WJJ3
Well-known
I stacked a few hoods on the end of my macro lens and made a magnetized film carrier that clings to it. Holds my film parallel to the sensor near the MFD of my macro lens. Works great and cost me about $30.

peterm1
Veteran
The app is called, appropriately enough, Light Table. I have found that raising the negative several millimeters above the tablet alleviate s the pixelation problem, I used my iPad for several months in this manner, but found an LED light panel for about &14 on eBay that provides a brighter source without the pixel problem.
Yes Light Table is its name. And it is good to know that raising the negative helps. BTW how did you do that - did you make a carrier of some sort or did you already have a plastic carrier of the sort often sold with flatbed scanners for holding and scanning negatives?
Huss
Veteran
I stacked a few hoods on the end of my macro lens and made a magnetized film carrier that clings to it. Holds my film parallel to the sensor near the MFD of my macro lens. Works great and cost me about $30.
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Excellent! And all for $30!
brbo
Well-known
They say that if you've got nothing nice to say don't say anything at all...
(my drum scanner takes less space, looks much nicer and was cheaper)
(my drum scanner takes less space, looks much nicer and was cheaper)
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