Darthfeeble
But you can call me Steve
This might be of interest to you film folk. https://www.lewiskemper.com/page/klic2copy-film-digital-copier
I agree with the rest, but I don't understand this one. I use the Slimelight Plano and a Nikon adapter so I'm regularly shooting at 1/4th or slower since the adapter blocks some light. It's never been any issue for me and I can't see how my process would greatly improve shooting at 1/100th of a second.- Shutter speed, with that light panel, unless it's brighter than typical light panel, you'll be shooting at ~1/4 sec.
For people who occasionally want to digitize a film and of course already have a good macro lens and do not wish to buy a special device.
One hack I have tried for digitizing film (both negatives and slides) is to use the screen of a computer tablet as the light box / back light source. An app can be found for this (I cannot recall its name). The app just puts out bright light consistently from the LCD and I think from memory its brightness and color can be varied as needed.
I found that one problem with this is that the light from a tablets screen is pixelated and this definitely shows up on the final result when using a good macro lens. So you will also need to mount a semi clear neutrally colored translucent plastic filter on the tablet's screen to diffuse the pixelated light emanating from the screen. I fudged one from a white translucent plastic document sleeve bought for pennies from a stationery store specifically for this purpose. Of course you will also need a tripod which can orient your camera to the tablet - the most convenient way is to orient the camera facing the ground / table with the tablet laying flat.
I have tried it once or twice as an experiment but I have not gone back (yet) as I have been busy with more interesting stuff - but I do intend experimenting more when both need and time available coincide. I still have quite a few old negatives I could scan but have been reluctant to buy kit for this purpose as it is not a high priority for me.
The app is called, appropriately enough, Light Table. I have found that raising the negative several millimeters above the tablet alleviate s the pixelation problem, I used my iPad for several months in this manner, but found an LED light panel for about &14 on eBay that provides a brighter source without the pixel problem.
I stacked a few hoods on the end of my macro lens and made a magnetized film carrier that clings to it. Holds my film parallel to the sensor near the MFD of my macro lens. Works great and cost me about $30.
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