A new product for digitizing your film.

Delighted to see innovation happening in this space, but lots of questions looking at the one photo...
- How precise?
- Vibration free?
- Shutter speed, with that light panel, unless it's brighter than typical light panel, you'll be shooting at ~1/4 sec.
 
I've thought about making a copy stand for negative scanning from 80/20. I'm too lazy though. We use 80/20 all the time at work, but I don't have to cut it and assemble it :)
 
This is a creation of a Pro photog by the name of Lewis Kemper, he is a contributing editor for Outdoor Photographer as well as other things photographic. Our club had him speak a couple times and as he is a local boy, I felt the need to promote his stuff. I imaging he would be happy to answer any questions. One thing I do know about it, a macro lens is required.
 
- Shutter speed, with that light panel, unless it's brighter than typical light panel, you'll be shooting at ~1/4 sec.
I agree with the rest, but I don't understand this one. I use the Slimelight Plano and a Nikon adapter so I'm regularly shooting at 1/4th or slower since the adapter blocks some light. It's never been any issue for me and I can't see how my process would greatly improve shooting at 1/100th of a second.
 
For people who occasionally want to digitize a film and of course already have a good macro lens and do not wish to buy a special device.

One hack I have tried for digitizing film (both negatives and slides) is to use the screen of a computer tablet as the light box / back light source. An app can be found for this (I cannot recall its name). The app just puts out bright light consistently from the LCD and I think from memory its brightness and color can be varied as needed.

I found that one problem with this is that the light from a tablets screen is pixelated and this definitely shows up on the final result when using a good macro lens. So you will also need to mount a semi clear neutrally colored translucent plastic filter on the tablet's screen to diffuse the pixelated light emanating from the screen. I fudged one from a white translucent plastic document sleeve bought for pennies from a stationery store specifically for this purpose. Of course you will also need a tripod which can orient your camera to the tablet - the most convenient way is to orient the camera facing the ground / table with the tablet laying flat.

I have tried it once or twice as an experiment but I have not gone back (yet) as I have been busy with more interesting stuff - but I do intend experimenting more when both need and time available coincide. I still have quite a few old negatives I could scan but have been reluctant to buy kit for this purpose as it is not a high priority for me.
 
My NIB Plustek scanner cost me much less and takes less space than this bunch of planks.
Not to mention need to purchase macro lens.
 
$625?

Lessee.. my copy stand - $150. LED light panel - $20. Digitiliza film holder that also covers pano and 6x9 which his does not - $30.
Total? $200.
 
For people who occasionally want to digitize a film and of course already have a good macro lens and do not wish to buy a special device.

One hack I have tried for digitizing film (both negatives and slides) is to use the screen of a computer tablet as the light box / back light source. An app can be found for this (I cannot recall its name). The app just puts out bright light consistently from the LCD and I think from memory its brightness and color can be varied as needed.

I found that one problem with this is that the light from a tablets screen is pixelated and this definitely shows up on the final result when using a good macro lens. So you will also need to mount a semi clear neutrally colored translucent plastic filter on the tablet's screen to diffuse the pixelated light emanating from the screen. I fudged one from a white translucent plastic document sleeve bought for pennies from a stationery store specifically for this purpose. Of course you will also need a tripod which can orient your camera to the tablet - the most convenient way is to orient the camera facing the ground / table with the tablet laying flat.

I have tried it once or twice as an experiment but I have not gone back (yet) as I have been busy with more interesting stuff - but I do intend experimenting more when both need and time available coincide. I still have quite a few old negatives I could scan but have been reluctant to buy kit for this purpose as it is not a high priority for me.

The app is called, appropriately enough, Light Table. I have found that raising the negative several millimeters above the tablet alleviate s the pixelation problem, I used my iPad for several months in this manner, but found an LED light panel for about &14 on eBay that provides a brighter source without the pixel problem.
 
I like the horizontal concept, but the footprint is much bigger than a vertical setup, too big for my use. Nice if you have the space.
 
I stacked a few hoods on the end of my macro lens and made a magnetized film carrier that clings to it. Holds my film parallel to the sensor near the MFD of my macro lens. Works great and cost me about $30.

35909192025_e9a04e3483_c.jpg
 
The app is called, appropriately enough, Light Table. I have found that raising the negative several millimeters above the tablet alleviate s the pixelation problem, I used my iPad for several months in this manner, but found an LED light panel for about &14 on eBay that provides a brighter source without the pixel problem.

Yes Light Table is its name. And it is good to know that raising the negative helps. BTW how did you do that - did you make a carrier of some sort or did you already have a plastic carrier of the sort often sold with flatbed scanners for holding and scanning negatives?
 
I stacked a few hoods on the end of my macro lens and made a magnetized film carrier that clings to it. Holds my film parallel to the sensor near the MFD of my macro lens. Works great and cost me about $30.

35909192025_e9a04e3483_c.jpg

Excellent! And all for $30!
 
They say that if you've got nothing nice to say don't say anything at all...


(my drum scanner takes less space, looks much nicer and was cheaper)
 
Sounds like a Nikon PB-6 bellows with PS-6 slide copying attachment. Just without the bellows, convenience or low price.
 
Back
Top Bottom