cweg
Well-known
Hello,
I bought me a Konica Auto S2 with a stucked shutter. Now the Shutter is fixed and I need a Batterie for the Lightmeter. Can you tell me, what 1,5 Batterie fits the best in size. I tried a small one, but I can't fix it for correct contact. I also tried a PX675 but it's even to small. Answers are very welcome.
best regards
CHristoph
I bought me a Konica Auto S2 with a stucked shutter. Now the Shutter is fixed and I need a Batterie for the Lightmeter. Can you tell me, what 1,5 Batterie fits the best in size. I tried a small one, but I can't fix it for correct contact. I also tried a PX675 but it's even to small. Answers are very welcome.
best regards
CHristoph
btgc
Veteran
Hi,
I used px675 with rubber ring around. On lower surface put insulation tape with hole to allow "-" contact and disable shortening to "+"...maybe it were another camera which needed "tape cure".
All in all, when tricking smaller diameter into 625 socket, one has to ensure proper contact for "+" terminal where contact is made to side of battery (that said, camera has plastic battery cap).
I used px675 with rubber ring around. On lower surface put insulation tape with hole to allow "-" contact and disable shortening to "+"...maybe it were another camera which needed "tape cure".
All in all, when tricking smaller diameter into 625 socket, one has to ensure proper contact for "+" terminal where contact is made to side of battery (that said, camera has plastic battery cap).
cweg
Well-known
Thanks for your quick answering. The Problem is the accurate contact for the "+" because the 675 has to place out of center. I found out, that the V625U may be the right size. I'm gonna try it out and solder a diode in the socket like this http://www.flickr.com/photos/74695037@N00/1359057093/
Can't wait to put my first roll through the S2
Can't wait to put my first roll through the S2
btgc
Veteran
This is exact problem I were referring to. Make sure contact is permanent or intermittent power outages will drive you mad. Especially when you have loaded film and etch to take pics
Meter on mine is kind of inaccurate so I put battery in handheld meter to use it with any camera. Though liked to find solution.
Ah, pics will create a sweet spot in your heart for KAS2, that lens makes distinctive look to pictures.
cweg
Well-known
Yes, I think I gonna fall in Love with the KAS2 I own two Konica T3Ns with a lot of lovely Hexanons, they're great lenses, but I like the handling of the RF better, so I was positive surprised when my KAS2 came to me. It is nearly mint and the handling is great.
I'm gonna tryout the V625U/+diode solution and if it's inaccurate I'm gonna buy a handheld. I don't wanna miss this beauty cause of a nonworking lightmeter.
I own two Konica T3Ns with a lot of lovely Hexanons, they're great lenses, but I like the handling of the RF better, so I was positive surprised when my KAS2 came to me. It is nearly mint and the handling is great. I'm gonna tryout the V625U/+diode solution and if it's inaccurate I'm gonna buy a handheld. I don't wanna miss this beauty cause of a nonworking lightmeter.
kuzano
Veteran
I use Zinc Air cells for the accurate 1.35 rated battery
I use Zinc Air cells for the accurate 1.35 rated battery
The Konica, along with almost all other cameras of the era used the mercury PX625 at 1.35 volts. The Wein Cells are rated at the same voltage, have a flat curve and are the same dimension in all respects. They are under $5, can be bought with 2-3 day delivery on eBay and a number of other source.
Everybody bitches about the life span. I easily get 6 months, and when I know the camera is going to be on the shelf a few weeks, I tape up the air holes ON THE BATTERY and stop the chemical reaction.
With all the talk of adaptors, rubber rings, kludging this and that, the Wein Cells (Zinc Air), in my opinion, remain the most reasonable and logical solution. I have two spares in the drawer and they don't start becoming energized until I take the seal off and they stop depleting when I put it back on.
It's the next perfect solution to finding a treasure trove of unused PX625 batteries.
The Wein Cell part number is MRB625. The 625 is the dimension. My Olympus' OM1 is currently running on one and my Canon GIII 1.7 is running on another.
I just put the voltmeter on the Wein Cell from the OM-1 and it registers 1.38 volts.... Same as the day I put it in 5 months ago. I've been happily using these Wein Cells for the replacement for the PX625 for over 15 years.
AND ON THE V625U... that's an alkaline battery and the voltage curve will drop steadily from the day you pull juice from it, regardless of the electronics you attache to it, unless you're putting another power source in the loop somewhere.
I use Zinc Air cells for the accurate 1.35 rated battery
The Konica, along with almost all other cameras of the era used the mercury PX625 at 1.35 volts. The Wein Cells are rated at the same voltage, have a flat curve and are the same dimension in all respects. They are under $5, can be bought with 2-3 day delivery on eBay and a number of other source.
Everybody bitches about the life span. I easily get 6 months, and when I know the camera is going to be on the shelf a few weeks, I tape up the air holes ON THE BATTERY and stop the chemical reaction.
With all the talk of adaptors, rubber rings, kludging this and that, the Wein Cells (Zinc Air), in my opinion, remain the most reasonable and logical solution. I have two spares in the drawer and they don't start becoming energized until I take the seal off and they stop depleting when I put it back on.
It's the next perfect solution to finding a treasure trove of unused PX625 batteries.
The Wein Cell part number is MRB625. The 625 is the dimension. My Olympus' OM1 is currently running on one and my Canon GIII 1.7 is running on another.
I just put the voltmeter on the Wein Cell from the OM-1 and it registers 1.38 volts.... Same as the day I put it in 5 months ago. I've been happily using these Wein Cells for the replacement for the PX625 for over 15 years.
AND ON THE V625U... that's an alkaline battery and the voltage curve will drop steadily from the day you pull juice from it, regardless of the electronics you attache to it, unless you're putting another power source in the loop somewhere.
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btgc
Veteran
good note from kuzano...diode is worth using for silver-oxide battery. Are there 625-sized pills at reasonable price?
Eugen Mezei
Well-known
Just contact me by email and I supply you the desired quantity of _fresh_ mercuries.
Although sold these mercuries to a lot of different cameras (as well as I use them in different cameras), maybe somebody could send me a picture of the battery chamber of the S2? Would like to see where the problem with this particular camera lies. I am sure some simple mechanical adaptation can be found.
Eugen
Although sold these mercuries to a lot of different cameras (as well as I use them in different cameras), maybe somebody could send me a picture of the battery chamber of the S2? Would like to see where the problem with this particular camera lies. I am sure some simple mechanical adaptation can be found.
Eugen
Eugen Mezei
Well-known
Just saw the photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/74695037@N00/1359149803/in/photostream/
In such cases I do the following: I solder a big drop of solder to the negative contact of the 675. This sticks out far enough so the contact tongue of the camera don't touch the positive part of the battery housing.
I see the OP has mounted a diode in his S2. What a complication... At least does it work? I am convinced it does not.
Eugen
In such cases I do the following: I solder a big drop of solder to the negative contact of the 675. This sticks out far enough so the contact tongue of the camera don't touch the positive part of the battery housing.
I see the OP has mounted a diode in his S2. What a complication... At least does it work? I am convinced it does not.
Eugen