Berlin?

Berlin?

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Pirate said:
"How do your negatives look like? Are they very dark? If yes, looks like heavy overexposure or overdevelopment."

Yes, very dark.
"Can you scan two frames, so that the space inbetween is completly black?"

Yes, here:
Click to expand...

Thanks, I had a look at your photos in a photo editing software. The full histogram is there, but it is looking heavily compressed. In my scanning software the preview looks like this, if there are too many black areas in the preview frame and it automatically tries to "adjust" for it. Getting the crop right fixes this. But as you say, it is probably the development, as the negs also seem to be a bit uneven. Setting the blackpoint and whitepoint while scanning and tweaking the mids should help to get something usable out of it, but it will still be grainy. This is not necessarily a bad thing.

Is the area between the frames also exposed on the negatives?

Chris, don't get discouraged. What I would do next is to expose a test roll with a standard scene, bracket [@100, @200, @400, @800, @1600] and develop it according to the instructions or the massive development chart. Be gentle with your agitations/inversions. What is the name of your developer?

If you do not want to use toxic chemicals, this site may also be interesting. Coffee works as a developer, it is possible to get all the ingredients in the supermarket. I started my bw developing with that some years ago and am playing with the thought of returning, as Reinhold seems to have optimized the formulas with extensive testing. There are also stand development recipies, that claim, that you could use different film speeds on the same roll. Probably more fun and less toxic.

However, once you have decided for one developer/film combo, I would try to get that down first, before switching to early.
 
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"Is the area between the frames also exposed on the negatives?"
Yes - in the photo above, that is one section of the film, one scan from the film so you can see the see the area between the frames.

"What I would do next is to expose a test roll with a standard scene, bracket [@100, @200, @400, @800, @1600] and develop it according to the instructions or the massive development chart. Be gentle with your agitations/inversions. What is the name of your developer?"
That was my thought this morning. I have a new roll of B&W loaded in the M3 and will do this when the sun comes out...... maybe Saturday :D

I just got some E6 rolls back from the lab, from night shots I did with the Hasselblad so I am scanning those.
Also just got my Jobo tank so I will start developing our weekend shots of Ektar today!
 
Oh, and to answer your earlier question, Simon- I'm doing the Tri-X in Tetenal Neofin Blau. What times would you use for that combination? And I will compare that to what I actually used.
 
Pirate said:
Did you develop that shot I took on the U-bahn with your camera??
Click to expand...

I think I have it scanned already, will check later when I'm at home!

Catalunya = Catalonia in english, a region in the north-east of Spain (or, is it? :D) that is strongly striving for independence. catalan sounds like an interesting mix-patois between french and spanish to a non-spanish-speaker, but it is a proper language, and not just a dialect.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalonia
 
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Pirate said:
Oh, and to answer your earlier question, Simon- I'm doing the Tri-X in Tetenal Neofin Blau. What times would you use for that combination? And I will compare that to what I actually used.
Click to expand...

never used it, but the great almighty dev chart says 20min for 400asa in stock dilution at 20°C. agitation advice should be on the tetenal homepage I guess?
 
Pirate said:
"What I would do next is to expose a test roll with a standard scene, bracket [@100, @200, @400, @800, @1600] and develop it according to the instructions or the massive development chart. Be gentle with your agitations/inversions. What is the name of your developer?"
That was my thought this morning. I have a new roll of B&W loaded in the M3 and will do this when the sun comes out...... maybe Saturday :D
Click to expand...

By the way, you do not have to waste a whole roll. Just use a camera that makes it easy to remove an unrewound film and expose 5 or 6 frames only. It can be done quite quickly.All this testing may be a bit tedious, but it saves a lot of time in the long run.
 
Pirate said:
Oh, and to answer your earlier question, Simon- I'm doing the Tri-X in Tetenal Neofin Blau. What times would you use for that combination? And I will compare that to what I actually used.
Click to expand...

By the way, as far as I can see Neofin Blau is not recommended for film with a speed equal to or higher than ISO 200. There used to be Neofin Rot for high speed film, but it has been discontinued.
 
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SimonSawSunlight said:
the acros negatives from my
mamiya 6 are blowing me away. very happy with the iq here!
...
Click to expand...

Tha Agfa Isola II ain't too shabby either! ;)

R197-06.jpg
 
"never used it, but the great almighty dev chart says 20min for 400asa in stock dilution at 20°C. agitation advice should be on the tetenal homepage I guess?"

We will discuss this more later. There is more I want to show you about the Tetenal and a paper I want to scan and ask you what it says.

Just too much to do tonight and must go to work in the morning......
 
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gho said:
By the way, you do not have to waste a whole roll. Just use a camera that makes it easy to remove an unrewound film and expose 5 or 6 frames only. It can be done quite quickly.All this testing may be a bit tedious, but it saves a lot of time in the long run.
Click to expand...


I was thinking to do multiple tests on one roll. Some shots in Sunny-16 direct sunlight, some in soft shadows, and some in dark shadows. I will document every shot and the complete developing procedure for my learning.
 
gho said:
By the way, as far as I can see Neofin Blau is not recommended for film with a speed equal to or higher than ISO 200. There used to be Neofin Rot for high speed film, but it has been discontinued.
Click to expand...


Thanks! I did not know the Blau should be used below 200. I did know the Rot was discontinued :(

I do not think I will be using Tri-X very much in the future as I like the Rollei Pan 25, but I will remember this if I must use it again.
 
Pirate: Sweet!

Ok, so I finally happened to develop one of the many rolls I shot in Berlin in June. I have a bad habit of never marking my rolls so I just develop stuff randomly. Nothing exciting here - I'm just happy I no longer have to shoot Fomapan...

4924811938_a5c8b7f592_b.jpg


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4924812246_f86616167d_b.jpg


4924812362_e9b8672eb8_b.jpg
 
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