Bessa R*M vs. R*A

[jsrockit]

My Zeiss Ikon would disagree with this statement 😀

It's not a Film "M." Only Leica makes "M" cameras. Others make "M mount" cameras...

 

[kanzlr]

It's not a Film "M." Only Leica makes "M" cameras. Others make "M mount" cameras...

!!!

nitpicking. but still, you are right. technically speaking 🙂

 

[stillshunter]

Thanks all. I'm this much closer to my mind being made up.
1. I'd prefer the 1:1 VF and more accurate focusing with a normal lens - so the R3.
2. Looks like for the price and purpose, especially considering the warranty (3 years sounds good!) that the R3A is a sensible option.

Now to avoid Dante's Hexar reviews and all talk of "you'd be better of with an M3" 😉 Neither of which should matter as I'm almost set on lens number #1 being the Nokton 40/1.4. So just the CL and CLE left to avoid then....

 

[meandihagee]

Still not 100% on the R2 vs R3 - though leaning towards the R3 for the 1:1 VF and marriage with a Nokton 40mm f1.4 SC. But I digress.....already 😱

I've read Stephen Gandy's pages on the Bessas multiple times and a plethora of reviews, but I'm still found scratching my head. On paper the R*M models appear to have the better VF display, quieter shutter and the bonus of no-battery use...seems like a no-brainer. But then trawling through RFF it seems more folks have opted for the R*A? Can I ask why? Also curious that the amount of used R*As available outnumbers those of the R*M models. Is this due to more sold new or a higher proportion of users wanting to move on from them for some reason (inversely more R*M owners holding onto their cameras)?

Again, I'd jump on an R3M w/- CV 40/1.4 SC tomorrow, but can't quite figure out what's with the proliferation of R3As. Maybe there is something that I am missing....

Really appreciate any insights.

The R2A froze on me last winter (the batteries, I mean). But if your not shooting in Siberia everyday, go for the *A. But who knows what the 2012 has in store for us? Maybe the Apocalypse is coming after all. I was thinking of getting R4M and documenting the whole event. Might be hard to get batteries 😀

Other than that, it's great to have AE, as you don't have to take the camera from your eye to see your shutter speeds.

The matte finish on *A is soo cool. Way nicer than the classic black of the *M.

And one more thing, I like to have a lock button on the shutter release.

All in all, a faster way to do things, which is what RFs are for. You can always go on manual to if you feel like it and get the same experience of the *M (the clicks of the dials are more "snappy" as opposed to the *Ms which felt little loose to me. Oh, but look at me, talking like a Leica guy)

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Reliability - R*A vs R*M
Is the mechanical R less prone to problems than its electronic A cousin....or are these pretty much of a muchness, or suffer a different breed of problem?

I've used an R3A, an R4M and two Bessas T for a few years, including trips and beach, and mechanical and electronic cameras, both have been 100% reliable.

I got a mechanical one first (wonderful camera!!!), but it's a fact AE is the perfect shooting style for lots of scenes. When it works well, why not use it too? It helps us concentrate in what really matters...

Cheers,

Juan

 

[santela]

I have the M7 and Hexar RF, so I got the R4M for reliability, but I do miss the A since I shoot quite a bit of slides.

 

[john_s]

I suppose one advantage of the A is that intermediate shutter speeds are available.

 

[froyd]

A in M mode

A in M mode

Can't remember, but when the A is set on manual, the viewfinder shows the set shutter speed as well as a blinking one indicating where the exposure should be.

Is this the way the Ikon works as well?

 

[markrich]

I went with the R2A. I wanted the mix of wide, standard and telephoto framelines to obtain lenses for later. Presently I have a Jupiter 8 fro 50mm and a Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 classic. I felt it covered all my desires better than the other models.

 

[kossi008]

Can't remember, but when the A is set on manual, the viewfinder shows the set shutter speed as well as a blinking one indicating where the exposure should be.

Is this the way the Ikon works as well?

Yes, it is.

 

[Bingley]

Thanks all. I'm this much closer to my mind being made up.
1. I'd prefer the 1:1 VF and more accurate focusing with a normal lens - so the R3.
2. Looks like for the price and purpose, especially considering the warranty (3 years sounds good!) that the R3A is a sensible option.

Now to avoid Dante's Hexar reviews and all talk of "you'd be better of with an M3" 😉 Neither of which should matter as I'm almost set on lens number #1 being the Nokton 40/1.4. So just the CL and CLE left to avoid then....

Do you wear glasses? The 40 framelines on the R3* are out on the edge of the vf and hard to see; that was my experience and why I sold my R3A. Otherwise, it's a great camera, and the AE and metering is really good.

If I were to buy another Bessa R* to use with a 40 as my main lens, I'd get an R2* and frame w/ the 35 framelines. YMMV.

 

[kshapero]

The R3A is more popular only because today more people are used to using AE cameras,
not mechanical.

As my page on the R2M / R3M explains
http://cameraquest.com/voigt_250.htm

I personally prefer the mechanical cameras.

"All of that said, on a personal note I have to say that I prefer classic mechanical cameras over electronic cameras. So my pick would be the R2M or R3M over the R2A or R3A. I just like the sound of mechanical shutter camera better, as well as preferring the classic metering readout."

Stephen

But also the R3A came out first. So it had a head start on sales.