nesco
Newbie
Problem calibrating R2 after crash
Problem calibrating R2 after crash
Hello everybody,
I've been following the thread and found it very useful for calibrating the focus alignment of my Bessa R2 in the past, and post now for the first time.
Recently I had to do the job again after the camera fell down (ouch!), but
I'm starting thinking that it could have actually happened something worse.
Indeed every time I calibrate (I did it already three times in the last weeks), after a few days the focus is misaligned again.
Sometimes I even have the feeling that while focusing with one lens works fine (perfectly aligned), with another doesn't, and/or that when I turn the focus ring on the lens, the vertical alignment is suddenly gone.
Can it be that something else in the camera is broken (it seems to work fine, besides the vertical alignment bothering)?
Should I just take it to a repair shop instead of keep on trying?
Does anybody know if there's Cosina repair service in Germany/Europe?
Would be thankful for any suggestion,
have a nice day .nesco
Problem calibrating R2 after crash
Hello everybody,
I've been following the thread and found it very useful for calibrating the focus alignment of my Bessa R2 in the past, and post now for the first time.
Recently I had to do the job again after the camera fell down (ouch!), but
I'm starting thinking that it could have actually happened something worse.
Indeed every time I calibrate (I did it already three times in the last weeks), after a few days the focus is misaligned again.
Sometimes I even have the feeling that while focusing with one lens works fine (perfectly aligned), with another doesn't, and/or that when I turn the focus ring on the lens, the vertical alignment is suddenly gone.
Can it be that something else in the camera is broken (it seems to work fine, besides the vertical alignment bothering)?
Should I just take it to a repair shop instead of keep on trying?
Does anybody know if there's Cosina repair service in Germany/Europe?
Would be thankful for any suggestion,
have a nice day .nesco
kossi008
Photon Counter
ilchkai
Newbie
Hey Guys,
just wondering if anyone can help me out with some advice. After dropping my Bessa r3a the rangefinder needed re-aligning which I had done in my local camera shop (badly, there is still a slight vertical misalignment).
The problem is that when focussing the frame lines in the viewfinder move diagonally - can anyone explain to me where the problem is? (diagonal movement - is it the lens?, the rangefinder?) And more importantly, is this fixable?
Thanks,
kai
[P.S.: this is my first post - i have searched the forum for a post with a similar problem but not found one - if this question has been answered elsewhere, please point me in the right direction.]
just wondering if anyone can help me out with some advice. After dropping my Bessa r3a the rangefinder needed re-aligning which I had done in my local camera shop (badly, there is still a slight vertical misalignment).
The problem is that when focussing the frame lines in the viewfinder move diagonally - can anyone explain to me where the problem is? (diagonal movement - is it the lens?, the rangefinder?) And more importantly, is this fixable?
Thanks,
kai
[P.S.: this is my first post - i have searched the forum for a post with a similar problem but not found one - if this question has been answered elsewhere, please point me in the right direction.]
ferider
Veteran
Hi Kai,
welcome to the forum.
The framelines move diagonally to correct for Parallax error. This is desired and OK.
Cheers,
Roland.
welcome to the forum.
The framelines move diagonally to correct for Parallax error. This is desired and OK.
Cheers,
Roland.
Ronald M
Veteran
This is why not to get a Bessa after reading all the problems.
Locking screws that upset the adjustment, fixed it three times last week, have to pull the top off the camera. Sounds like a nightmare.
Maybe thats why Leica costs so much. I had to adjust one in 25 years on one camera. Never touched the others.
Locking screws that upset the adjustment, fixed it three times last week, have to pull the top off the camera. Sounds like a nightmare.
Maybe thats why Leica costs so much. I had to adjust one in 25 years on one camera. Never touched the others.
ilchkai
Newbie
thanks for the info and welcome roland!
parallax error, eh? wish i could have found out about that without dropping my camera...
ronald, i would suspect that even a trusty leica would suffer some battle scars after being flung on tarmac - i am actually suprised at how little damage my little bessa has suffered after such a violent tumble...
kb
parallax error, eh? wish i could have found out about that without dropping my camera...
ronald, i would suspect that even a trusty leica would suffer some battle scars after being flung on tarmac - i am actually suprised at how little damage my little bessa has suffered after such a violent tumble...
kb
jc031699
Established
Reviving an old thread.
I recently purchased a Bessa R that shows rangefinder calibration that is slightly front focused (rangefinder goes past infinity). This checks out with all 3 of my old Leica LTM lenses (35mm, 50mm, 90mm) that are calibrated perfectly on my M240. (These also are well calibrated on my Canon IVSB2, so I’ll just leave it at that.)
I’ve dug around on the Internet wayback machine and found all the archived copies of the pages linked by the OP.
When I loosened the 2nd from top Phillips screw the rangefinder appeared to go totally out of whack but I was able to get it back for near focus using the 3rd hole “control point”. This was done with a focusing screen and loupe on the film rails. When I retightened the Phillips screw, the vertical alignment was still nearly dead on.
I went to the lake and adjusted infinity focus, which was essentially slightly loosening the Phillips screw and nudging the control point. Of note, tightening the Phillips screw slightly pushes the rangefinder “secondary” image to the left toward and past infinity. Which also means that nudging the control point to the left moves the secondary image toward and past infinity (left).
Finally, the vertical alignment was still a tiny bit off, so I turned the 1st hole slotted screw a tiny amount. Turning clockwise brings the secondary image down, and counterclockwise brings it up. Recheck of horizontal alignment showed it was still perfect.
Learning points for me:
1) the control point seems to go left and right only, and not fore/aft, so infinity focus still appears to be the key for horizontal alignment just like with my Canon IVSB2.
2) I did not need to remove the cover. I could move the control point using a tool with ball ends, I think originally for embossing or some such
3) tiny adjustments of vertical alignment don’t have much effect on horizontal alignment
1) makes sense, since having 2 degrees of freedom would make the process infinitely harder. It seems like there are many degrees of freedom, but when the Phillips screw is partially tightened the control point only moves left/right.
I used an eyepiece magnifier kludged together from a Nikon FM-10 (DK-22 adapter) and Nikon FE2 (eyepiece magnifier) to improve my precision.
I recently purchased a Bessa R that shows rangefinder calibration that is slightly front focused (rangefinder goes past infinity). This checks out with all 3 of my old Leica LTM lenses (35mm, 50mm, 90mm) that are calibrated perfectly on my M240. (These also are well calibrated on my Canon IVSB2, so I’ll just leave it at that.)
I’ve dug around on the Internet wayback machine and found all the archived copies of the pages linked by the OP.
When I loosened the 2nd from top Phillips screw the rangefinder appeared to go totally out of whack but I was able to get it back for near focus using the 3rd hole “control point”. This was done with a focusing screen and loupe on the film rails. When I retightened the Phillips screw, the vertical alignment was still nearly dead on.
I went to the lake and adjusted infinity focus, which was essentially slightly loosening the Phillips screw and nudging the control point. Of note, tightening the Phillips screw slightly pushes the rangefinder “secondary” image to the left toward and past infinity. Which also means that nudging the control point to the left moves the secondary image toward and past infinity (left).
Finally, the vertical alignment was still a tiny bit off, so I turned the 1st hole slotted screw a tiny amount. Turning clockwise brings the secondary image down, and counterclockwise brings it up. Recheck of horizontal alignment showed it was still perfect.
Learning points for me:
1) the control point seems to go left and right only, and not fore/aft, so infinity focus still appears to be the key for horizontal alignment just like with my Canon IVSB2.
2) I did not need to remove the cover. I could move the control point using a tool with ball ends, I think originally for embossing or some such
3) tiny adjustments of vertical alignment don’t have much effect on horizontal alignment
1) makes sense, since having 2 degrees of freedom would make the process infinitely harder. It seems like there are many degrees of freedom, but when the Phillips screw is partially tightened the control point only moves left/right.
I used an eyepiece magnifier kludged together from a Nikon FM-10 (DK-22 adapter) and Nikon FE2 (eyepiece magnifier) to improve my precision.
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Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
I would have to say that having struggled through this with mine, all I had to do was tighten the lock screw. That said, this XY adjustment for infinity and rate is absurd and seems to be unique to Bessas.
jc031699
Established
That’s what I’m saying, that I saw no evidence of the rate setting suggested in that single website. And when you tightened the lock screw (Phillips), you presumably moved the rangefinder toward infinity. Perhaps the stories of folks repeatedly losing adjustment come from those who are loosening the lock screw in order to move the rangefinder away from infinity.
Interestingly, I was just putting it back together and I noticed that the “control point” hole remains accessible even after the hot shoe has been replaced since it is beneath the “4th hole” in the hot shoe that doesn’t have the screw. Hmm…. Wonder why. On the fly micro adjustment??
Interestingly, I was just putting it back together and I noticed that the “control point” hole remains accessible even after the hot shoe has been replaced since it is beneath the “4th hole” in the hot shoe that doesn’t have the screw. Hmm…. Wonder why. On the fly micro adjustment??
jc031699
Established
And for the sake of accuracy I’ll say that these are likely JIS and not Phillips. So please use a well fitting screwdriver to avoid marring the heads.