christian.rudman
digital to analog convert
I am looking at getting ahold of a local Olive R2 with the Trigger winder, and was checking out my options on 35mm lenses to go with it. I'd like to have a fast one, like the 35/1.4 Nokton Classic, but my lens allowance after body purchase will be around $700.
I've been reading about the focus shift with the 35/1.4 and it got me a little concerned. Should I be? I'm assuming that it's not that big of a deal if you meter open then focus closed, but I can't imagine that I'd remember to do that ever single time.
I sold my whole digital setup to fund this venture into the world of M-mount and RF, so I want to make sure it's a kit I will be encouraged to use often.
I'm just trying to build a nice starter RF kit and this combo is sounding like the ticket. I just want to make sure it's not a rash decision that will dissuade me from RF in general with it's results.
Point of this question is really: 35/1.4 Nokton classic a good buy or just more of a bargin? What else should I be considering at this point? I am not opposed to slower lenses either, just having the f/1.4 would be real handy for what I shoot.
Any pointers from RFF folks who know their RF stuff would be much appreciated. Thanks!
I've been reading about the focus shift with the 35/1.4 and it got me a little concerned. Should I be? I'm assuming that it's not that big of a deal if you meter open then focus closed, but I can't imagine that I'd remember to do that ever single time.
I sold my whole digital setup to fund this venture into the world of M-mount and RF, so I want to make sure it's a kit I will be encouraged to use often.
I'm just trying to build a nice starter RF kit and this combo is sounding like the ticket. I just want to make sure it's not a rash decision that will dissuade me from RF in general with it's results.
Point of this question is really: 35/1.4 Nokton classic a good buy or just more of a bargin? What else should I be considering at this point? I am not opposed to slower lenses either, just having the f/1.4 would be real handy for what I shoot.
Any pointers from RFF folks who know their RF stuff would be much appreciated. Thanks!
JayM
Well-known
The 35 Nokton is great. It's the only 35 I'll ever own. Get it and enjoy it but be prepared to feel the unwarranted pressure to "upgrade."
Lflex
Lflex
"...if you meter open then focus closed..."
I think you are mixing up the concepts here. Focusing with a stopped down aperture only works on digital (theoretically), the R2 is a film camera! (film cameras are less prone to focus shift due to the depth/thickness of the film emulsion)
The Nokton in not an inferior lens - It is comparable to the pre-asph Leica Summilux (although those who paid 2-3000 USD for the 'lux will deny this 'till the day they die
). BTW the Summilux also have focus shift.
Just get the Nokton at burn some film.
I think you are mixing up the concepts here. Focusing with a stopped down aperture only works on digital (theoretically), the R2 is a film camera! (film cameras are less prone to focus shift due to the depth/thickness of the film emulsion)
The Nokton in not an inferior lens - It is comparable to the pre-asph Leica Summilux (although those who paid 2-3000 USD for the 'lux will deny this 'till the day they die
). BTW the Summilux also have focus shift.Just get the Nokton at burn some film.
christian.rudman
digital to analog convert
"...if you meter open then focus closed..."
I think you are mixing up the concepts here. Focusing with a stopped down aperture only works on digital (theoretically), the R2 is a film camera! (film cameras are less prone to focus shift due to the depth/thickness of the film emulsion)
The Nokton in not an inferior lens - It is comparable to the pre-asph Leica Summilux (although those who paid 2-3000 USD for the 'lux will deny this 'till the day they die
Just get the Nokton at burn some film.
It's possible, I had just read somewhere else on this forum where someone was saying that they had a Nokton that always seemed off in focus in comparison to their new Zeiss (I'd imagine there would be a big difference even if focus was spot on for both). Chris Crawford had responded saying that "That lens suffers from focus shift. That means if you focus it wide open, and stop down, the point of actually focus shifts BACK from what you focused on. Its a part of the lens's design, yours is just like all of them are."
You can see the thread I read here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114038
I guess I just need some clarification on how to counter the focus shift. Or if it even matters. I'd assume not since you stop down and the dof just grows.
I know the R2 is a average meter off the whole shutter, hence saying the bit about metering open. But now that I think about it, metering open then stopping down would be even worse of a problem than focus shift. I would never have a good exposure with that method!:bang:
Blah. Long day at the office totally kills the logical part of my brain.
I think that I will be getting the Nokton. I'm excited about this kit!
Thanks for the replies guys!
If the Nokton were just unworkable, people wouldn't buy it, and anyway it wouldn't have been released for sale. Focus shift may ruin your day if you shoot flat subjects like newspapers and brick walls without learning how to compensate. For real-world 3-D subjects, the focus point may be slightly ahead or behind your intended point, but this is likely to be within the depth of field, and as mentioned less noticeable with film anyway.
I have a 35/1.4 Nokton SC, bought used from an RFF member, and it works fine on my M8 with no obvious focus issues. It has slight barrel distortion, and some curvature of field which I think is related to focus shift. I also have two ZM 35's and two Leica 35's, and it's interesting to see the subtle differences among them, and hard to see anything really obvious in the photos.
I have a 35/1.4 Nokton SC, bought used from an RFF member, and it works fine on my M8 with no obvious focus issues. It has slight barrel distortion, and some curvature of field which I think is related to focus shift. I also have two ZM 35's and two Leica 35's, and it's interesting to see the subtle differences among them, and hard to see anything really obvious in the photos.
Lflex
Lflex
Yes - I agree with Doug. The Nokton has focus shift and it is no big deal!
Joosep
Well-known
I have the 35mm SC. Shoot on film.
Tested out the focus shift. Closest focus, all the aperture range.
Focused point stayed within dof on all my images.
Thats what I concluded, dont know about other people.
Tested out the focus shift. Closest focus, all the aperture range.
Focused point stayed within dof on all my images.
Thats what I concluded, dont know about other people.
haempe
Well-known
Another "Don't worry".
I have shot the lens with film the last 6 month and would bet my release finger all out-of-focus-accidents are caused only by me - not the lens.
If you really fear the focus-shift, avoid the 2.8 , then you should be on the save side...
I have shot the lens with film the last 6 month and would bet my release finger all out-of-focus-accidents are caused only by me - not the lens.
If you really fear the focus-shift, avoid the 2.8 , then you should be on the save side...
christian.rudman
digital to analog convert
Thanks! I'll be ordering one later this week if the guy in the classifieds here does not drop the price on his beatup user version. We'll see what happens. Can't wait to get out with this combo and really test it out!