Bessa RF light leaks, any clue? (With photos)

[Spotmatic]

Here's my first roll with the pre-war Bessa RF. Apart from the light leaks, the transparencies came out really well. The Heliar is a great lens indeed!

Now, I'm sure you'll see the light leaks. Where could these come from? Interestingly the leaks don't extend to the sides of the actual photos so I'm not sure about a bellows problem (besides I cannot see any problems with the bellows).

Any ideas? Your help is really appreciated.

 

[rxmd]

Looks like light is falling in through the film counter windows in the back. Today's film is much more sensitive than back in the day, so the red window doesn't shield enough. Put some black electrician's tape over the window.

 

[Spotmatic]

Looks like light is falling in through the film counter windows in the back. Today's film is much more sensitive than back in the day, so the red window doesn't shield enough. Put some black electrician's tape over the window.

Yes, that could be it... If not for the fact that the counter windows are red and the color of the leaks is not red.

 

[wpb]

Looks like the bellows to me. I'd start near the film and work my way to the lens. Looks like maybe a leak in the first or second fold on the top and bottom (and maybe sides). The rather sharp cutoff near the rebate means it is fairly close to the film plane. Go into a fairly dark room and wait a minute or so for your eyes to adjust. Then take a flashlight and move it around from the inside of the camera almost touching the interior of the bellows. Sometimes you need to flex the bellows slightly to get the leak to show itself.

 

[rxmd]

Yes, that could be it... If not for the fact that the counter windows are red and the color of the leaks is not red.

Yes. Of course. I was being stupid. Also it does not extend beyond the film gate vertically, which would seem to indicate that it comes from the front. (It's easier to see where the light is coming from on negative film - light from the back will be coloured by the film base.)

The bellows would be the next culprit as wpb suggests.

 

[Spotmatic]

Looks like the bellows to me. I'd start near the film and work my way to the lens. Looks like maybe a leak in the first or second fold on the top and bottom (and maybe sides). The rather sharp cutoff near the rebate means it is fairly close to the film plane. Go into a fairly dark room and wait a minute or so for your eyes to adjust. Then take a flashlight and move it around from the inside of the camera almost touching the interior of the bellows. Sometimes you need to flex the bellows slightly to get the leak to show itself.

Thanks! You were spot on, the leaks are exactly where the bellows touch the body of the camera, on three corners. So any ideas about how to solve this problem? Buy new bellows and install it?

 

[Al Kaplan]

If it's a pre-war Bessa it's amazing that they've lasted this long! New bellows are in order.

 

[Spotmatic]

I think a bit of black tape could work too (at least for now):

 

[wpb]

First, I would try liquid electrical tape or black nail polish. If it works you can check the camera's performance and see if you want to go the route of a new (or cannibalized) bellows. I have had great luck with the liquid electrical tape, and the repairs have lasted for over a year so far.

 

[Spotmatic]

First, I would try liquid electrical tape or black nail polish. If it works you can check the camera's performance and see if you want to go the route of a new (or cannibalized) bellows. I have had great luck with the liquid electrical tape, and the repairs have lasted for over a year so far.

Thanks again for the valuable tips! I've already decided that the Bessa RF with its Heliar delivers great results (even with the leaks). The results are way better than I expected, so I'll give it a go with liquid electrical tape.

 

[wpb]

Use one light coat and then apply another a few hours later. Once you have the holes filled in you should give it 12-24 hours to fully set. Before you load up with film, collapse the bellows and then extend them a few times. Then re-check them for light leaks. Reapply if needed.

This will give you some time to figure out what route you want to take with regard to replacing the bellows and/or some time to acquire a donor camera or order a new bellows. I agree the pictures (sans light leaks) look pretty good.

P.S. The top of the can of liquid electrical tape can be a real b!t@h to get off. Vise grips are often needed.

 

[Spotmatic]

Again: thanks for the helpful guidelines! Please check back in a week or so to see the -hopefully better- results! 🙂

 

[Steve M.]

Locating light leaks can drive you a little buggy. I never had any success by the usual prescribed method of taking the camera into a closet and shining a flashlight in it because that isn't where the light comes in. It comes from the outside in, not the inside out. It's difficult to get the light angled right doing this. One thing you might do whilst in the closet is put the shutter on B and shine a light into the camera and see if there's leaks around the back door/red windows. Then w/ the shutter still on B, shine it all around the back of the camera while peering into the open shutter and see if any light comes in.

I've been 100% successful tracking down leaks by going out into the noon day sun and cramming my eye into the back of the opened camera. Cup your hands around your face to keep stray light out, and turn the camera every which way to get all of the bellows into the light. From your photos you have problems on the top, bottom, and sides (not much left at that point). You probably won't have any trouble seeing the problem areas. Make note of the condition of the bellows. If it's dry and looks thin I would just bite the bullet and get it replaced. There's few things more frustrating than wasting tons of film due to leaks. If it looks like you might be able to repair it try the Liquid Electrical tape. There's several good tips on the web about how to go about this.

And yes, the Heliar is fantastic. Definately worth getting the bellows repaired.

 

[FallisPhoto]

Personally, I'd contact Craig Camera. They sell "new old stock" Kodak replacement bellows (replacement part bellows built 50 years ago but never opened or used). They usually cost between $10 and $15. Measure your bellows, give him the information and see if he has anything appropriate in stock. There are about three kinds of Kodak bellows that look like they will fit; The one you want is leatherette and has the square (not rectangular) front fold. There is a leather Kodak bellows that looks the right size, and is tempting, but probably won't compress enough.

Anyway, Bessa RF bellows are easy to replace; they just glue in from the front -- they're not sandwiched between frame halves, as is the case with most folders. After unscrewing the retaining ring from the front of the bellows, just rip the old bellows out. There is a spring that gets in the way and you'll want to dab a little grease on it so the glue won't stick to it and ruin it. Scrape the remains of the old glue and crud out and use epoxy to glue the new bellows in, being sure the bellows are positioned so the back of the lens aligns with the front bellows opening. Once everything is lined up right, open the front of the camera again and stick everything down tight. Wait 24 hours and reattach the retaining ring and you're done. Just make sure you have the replacement bellows in hand before starting.

 

[Windscale]

custombellows.co.uk will make you one that fits perfectly. But you will have to pay GBP25 + shipping.

 

[FallisPhoto]

custombellows.co.uk will make you one that fits perfectly. But you will have to pay GBP25 + shipping.

The Kodak bellows are a perfect fit too, and are like new, at a fraction of the price. I've put several of them in Bessa RFs with no problem whatsoever. I'm down to my last two though, and will have to get some more soon (if I can still find them).