Best "All Around" 400-ISO B&W Film & Developer for 35mm B&W Leica "M" Street Shooting

[TomN]

pan f with diafine @ asa80 3 minustes a, 3 minutes b. can't beat the convenience, and cost of diafine, and it scans great.

not great for optical prints.

 

[DerekF]

Nobody else uses Tri-X + dilution H for HC-110? I guess I'll have to try B next time...!

 

[Chris101]

I use dilution h whenever I start to run low on developer syrup. Or when I am pulling the development.

 

[SimonSawSunlight]

am I the only one who uses Ilfotec LC29? 😀 (with Tri-X, Neopan acros/400/1600 and HP5 which is best when pushed a little)

 

[mfunnell]

Nobody else uses Tri-X + dilution H for HC-110? I guess I'll have to try B next time...!

I do, and I like the results.

...Mike

 

[functus]

I use Ilford Delta 400 with D-76 (I can't afford, or even regularly find other developers here). I don't use Tri-x for one very pedestrian reason; I find that it curls more than the Delta 400 when drying and this makes it more difficult to scan.

 

[BTMarcais]

Ilford Hp5+ in Kodak Xtol, 1:1

But like Roger and others have said, it's definitely a personal preference.
I used to primarily use Ilford Delta 400, but eventually decided I liked the more traditional grain appearance of Hp5. So not only is it a preference, but one that can change over time.

Try a few, see what suits your look the best. And if you're not quite getting the look you want, see what other photogs are doing to get that same look in their work.

-Brian

 

[ruby.monkey]

Tri-X in Diafine is fine if you plan to scan from negatives.

 

[JapanExposures]

Neopan 400 in Xtol 1:1 10min

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

'Neopan 400 in Xtol 1:1 10min'

Or in stock xtol for 8 minutes. Neopan is cheaper than TriX, easier to scan - less curl - and the film canisters are easier to open too.

 

[PMCC]

Arista Premium 400 is cheaper than Legacy Pro 400.

 

[Kin Lau]

Tri-X in Diafine is fine if you plan to scan from negatives.

Or when you're shooting without a meter, or just can't remember what you rated the film at when you shot it... such as when you have a 1 year backlog of film you haven't developed.

Otherwise, I usually soup my Tri-X in HC-110 dilution B.

 

[Damaso]

Tri-x & D76 straight...

 

[Samsam]

nothing beats D76 1:1 with Tri-x, it's like a Gibson guitar plugged in a Marshall amplifier, like drinking a coffee and smoking a cigarette.

 

[emraphoto]

Neopan 400, pushed 1 stop.

D-76

 

[funkpilz]

I use HP5 in either Ilfosol 3 or Ultrafin normally, but if you want a nice contrasty look, nothing beats HP5 at 1600 in Rodinal 1:100 for 90 minutes stand developed.

 

[ChrisPlatt]

That depends. Are you a right eye shooter or left eye shooter?

Chris

 

[boilerdoc2]

HP-5 at 1600 in Rodinal for 90 minutes! Whew! I'd love to see an image from that combo!
Steve

 

[Vics]

Tri-x and D76. For street-shooting you need something forgiving of error.
Vic

 

[eric rose]

sorry boys and girls I have to suggest something different from the great Al. I love using XP2 for street shooting. XP2 is great for skin tones and you get grain in the shadows not in the highlights like regular b&w film. Give it a try, you might like it.