womby68
Member
Hello, I've just managed to get a Bessa R3A (first version with Bessa written in front) and a Nokton 40mm f1.4 SC, including grip, lens hood and voigtlander strap... all used 549euro. Since it was a Gas attack, I would like to know if I've managed to get a fair price?
Talking about photography... since this is my first experience with a Nokton and M-mount camera (great experience up to now) and coming from the fantastic G system, manual focus via the rangefinder is really emotional...
Having always used, in the past 4 years, mainly kodak bw400cn (potra before) c41 chromogenic, before acquiring new film, I was wondering if:
-C41 bw400cn film is still suitable for the SC Nokton?
-Which prefered or suggested bw film, regardless real bw or C41?
Thanks.
Womby
Talking about photography... since this is my first experience with a Nokton and M-mount camera (great experience up to now) and coming from the fantastic G system, manual focus via the rangefinder is really emotional...
Having always used, in the past 4 years, mainly kodak bw400cn (potra before) c41 chromogenic, before acquiring new film, I was wondering if:
-C41 bw400cn film is still suitable for the SC Nokton?
-Which prefered or suggested bw film, regardless real bw or C41?
Thanks.
Womby
gilpen123
Gil
I like BW400CN with the Nokton 40 1.4 but better for me is Ilford HP5. Here's a sample of the chromo
Debusti Paolo
Well-known
Ilfprd hp5 plus or tri-x for 35mm and neopan 400 and delta 3200 for my bronica rf645.
It's time for you to upgrade to rf645!!!!
ciao
It's time for you to upgrade to rf645!!!!
ciao
Anton Caro
Member
I would recommend Ilford FP4... shot as neg, or even as dia... The FPan50 can also be processed as neg or dia, so you can play with these a lot.
If you can find some Rollei Retro or Efke 25...
I would not recommend Kodak T system - maybe it is far too modern, or maybe it is just my opinion... of course this is another film that can be processed as dia... as well as the 2 mentioned just above (in total 5 films).
And the real dia film Foma R100 which is an old school film, according to me. I stick with it.
If you can find some Rollei Retro or Efke 25...
I would not recommend Kodak T system - maybe it is far too modern, or maybe it is just my opinion... of course this is another film that can be processed as dia... as well as the 2 mentioned just above (in total 5 films).
And the real dia film Foma R100 which is an old school film, according to me. I stick with it.
mfogiel
Veteran
womby68
If you scan your film, you can use BW400CN, especially for portraiture, or Ilford XP2 for broader range of subjects, just remember to expose both at ISO 200. For a more traditional look and better control of sharpness and tonality, you should really start developing your own B&W - I'd say Tri-X in D76 for the beginning... its easy, if you get a black bag you don't even need a darkroom. BTW the price looks pretty good, just make some test shots wide open at close distance to check if the rangefinder is aligned ok.
BW400CN
XP2
Tri-X in D76
Tri-X in Diafine
If you scan your film, you can use BW400CN, especially for portraiture, or Ilford XP2 for broader range of subjects, just remember to expose both at ISO 200. For a more traditional look and better control of sharpness and tonality, you should really start developing your own B&W - I'd say Tri-X in D76 for the beginning... its easy, if you get a black bag you don't even need a darkroom. BTW the price looks pretty good, just make some test shots wide open at close distance to check if the rangefinder is aligned ok.
BW400CN
XP2
Tri-X in D76
Tri-X in Diafine
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W
Way
Guest
mfogiel,
Great pics! What is the reason for exposing XP2 at ISO 200?
Great pics! What is the reason for exposing XP2 at ISO 200?
filmfan
Well-known
I believe slightly overexposed negs by +1 to +1/2 stop are easier to scan in general. This is especially true (and easy) with negative film, for it has a lot of exposure latitude when overexposed. I always shoot my negative film @ +1/2 stop as insurance to prevent the dreaded underexposure.
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W
Way
Guest
Thanks! I'll give it a try.
Chyn
Established
i started out with ilford XP2 and liked what I was getting. However, after using Fuji Neopan 400 and 1600, I find that these two give really nice results with HC110.
Couple of examples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chynyj/2959102297/ [Neopan 400 pushed to 800, HC110]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chynyj/2564344431/ [Neopan 400 pushed to 800, HC110]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chynyj/2955549789/ [Neopan 400 pushed to 800, HC110]
Couple of examples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chynyj/2959102297/ [Neopan 400 pushed to 800, HC110]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chynyj/2564344431/ [Neopan 400 pushed to 800, HC110]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chynyj/2955549789/ [Neopan 400 pushed to 800, HC110]
Last edited:
Colman
Established
womby68
Member
Hmmm...
Hmmm...
Thanks for all your answers...
==================================
gilpen123: "I like BW400CN with the Nokton 40 1.4 but better for me is Ilford HP5. Here's a sample of the chromo"
Debusti Paolo: "Ilfprd hp5 plus or tri-x for 35mm and neopan 400 and delta 3200 for my bronica rf645."
Anton Caro: "I would recommend Ilford FP4... shot as neg, or even as dia... The FPan50 can also be processed as neg or dia, so you can play with these a lot. If you can find some Rollei Retro or Efke 25..."
mfogiel: "If you scan your film, you can use BW400CN, especially for portraiture, or Ilford XP2 for broader range of subjects, just remember to expose both at ISO 200. For a more traditional look and better control of sharpness and tonality, you should really start developing your own B&W - I'd say Tri-X in D76 for the beginning... its easy, if you get a black bag you don't even need a darkroom. BTW the price looks pretty good, just make some test shots wide open at close distance to check if the rangefinder is aligned ok."
Chyn: "i started out with ilford XP2 and liked what I was getting. However, after using Fuji Neopan 400 and 1600, I find that these two give really nice results with HC110"
filmfan: "I believe slightly overexposed negs by +1 to +1/2 stop are easier to scan in general. This is especially true (and easy) with negative film, for it has a lot of exposure latitude when overexposed. I always shoot my negative film @ +1/2 stop as insurance to prevent the dreaded underexposure."
==================================
I will give it a try using kodak bw400cn on the SINGLE COATED Nokton 40mm and I will try Ilford XP2 (never used it before) and see the results with SC. Completed this process, I will follow "mfogiel" suggestion and give it a go with TRI-X and start developing my own bw negative. Going with a rangefinder (manual, no AF), catalysed autarky within my photography process...
Thanks again.
Womby
Hmmm...
Thanks for all your answers...
==================================
gilpen123: "I like BW400CN with the Nokton 40 1.4 but better for me is Ilford HP5. Here's a sample of the chromo"
Debusti Paolo: "Ilfprd hp5 plus or tri-x for 35mm and neopan 400 and delta 3200 for my bronica rf645."
Anton Caro: "I would recommend Ilford FP4... shot as neg, or even as dia... The FPan50 can also be processed as neg or dia, so you can play with these a lot. If you can find some Rollei Retro or Efke 25..."
mfogiel: "If you scan your film, you can use BW400CN, especially for portraiture, or Ilford XP2 for broader range of subjects, just remember to expose both at ISO 200. For a more traditional look and better control of sharpness and tonality, you should really start developing your own B&W - I'd say Tri-X in D76 for the beginning... its easy, if you get a black bag you don't even need a darkroom. BTW the price looks pretty good, just make some test shots wide open at close distance to check if the rangefinder is aligned ok."
Chyn: "i started out with ilford XP2 and liked what I was getting. However, after using Fuji Neopan 400 and 1600, I find that these two give really nice results with HC110"
filmfan: "I believe slightly overexposed negs by +1 to +1/2 stop are easier to scan in general. This is especially true (and easy) with negative film, for it has a lot of exposure latitude when overexposed. I always shoot my negative film @ +1/2 stop as insurance to prevent the dreaded underexposure."
==================================
I will give it a try using kodak bw400cn on the SINGLE COATED Nokton 40mm and I will try Ilford XP2 (never used it before) and see the results with SC. Completed this process, I will follow "mfogiel" suggestion and give it a go with TRI-X and start developing my own bw negative. Going with a rangefinder (manual, no AF), catalysed autarky within my photography process...
Thanks again.
Womby