Cambodia

[Kingston]

Hello everyone,

I'll be in Siem Reap, Cambodia, for (social) business from June to December. I already know which camera I'll bring, it will likely be a Yashica Electro 35 CC.
Of course, I plan to travel as much as I can in the region during these months.
It would be nice to meet RFF members coming to visit Angkor or living in Cambodia or the region!
Also, let me know if you have recommendations regarding the must do/must see there. I'll have a limited budget and it's very likely I will only travel by bus to Thailand, Vietnam and Southern Laos.
Finally, if some of you have albums of photos they have taken there please share!

Cheers,

Kingston

 

[Spud10]

I quite enjoyed Siem Reap when I was there. Though it is fairly touristy and the constant onslaught of children trying to sell you things can wear you down, the town itself had a fairly friendly demeanor.

If you're looking to get out to a less touristy town, I recommend Battambang. I was there in the high tourist season and saw less than 15 other tourists in my 3 days/3 nights in town. Not to mention the lack of tuk-tuk drivers & children trying to get your pocket change.

I was contemplating making a return at the end of July/early August but the heat might just kill me 😱

 

[Nelson Tan]

I was there just two months ago, and the heat was well... incredible. I'm from the tropic country of Singapore (which is hot and humid), but Siem Reap takes the heat to a whole new level. Go sight-seeing early in the morning (by that I mean 6am) and retire to your hotel room by 11am. Get some rest and head out to any watering hole in town for lunch/drinks and chill out with a book or your notebook. It's a touristy town and Internet connection is commonly available, and the food and drinks prices are reasonable. The people are generally friendly and nice too.

I've some photos uploaded in an album. Feel free to check them out...

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.341380869320861.1073741830.337632906362324&type=3

 

[Jan Pedersen]

Nelson,
Wonderful images you have from Cambodia. A Country i would love to visit one day.

 

[Kingston]

Stunning photos Nelson!

Yes I think the heat was at its peak two months ago, I will be there during the wet season which is said to be the best time to visit Cambodia from what I can read so that's good, I just hope there won't be too much rain and flood.

Thanks for your feedback. I guess there will be even more tourists during the summer. I will check Battambang it seems not too far away and accessible by boat.

 

[oftheherd]

Stunning photos Nelson!

Yes I think the heat was at its peak two months ago, I will be there during the wet season which is said to be the best time to visit Cambodia from what I can read so that's good, I just hope there won't be too much rain and flood.

Thanks for your feedback. I guess there will be even more tourists during the summer. I will check Battambang it seems not too far away and accessible by boat.

I don't know what the rainy season is like in Cambodia, or different parts of Cambodia. When I was in Vietnam, the Central part of Vietnam, that is, around Quang Tri and Da Nang, was not fun. We went 6 months without seeing the sun. One two week period we got more than 20 inches of rain every day, and three of those days it rained over 28 inches. Further south, there would be days of no sun, and there would be rain. But nothing like at Quang Tri. I would guess Cambodia would be much like Saigon and south, so not too bad.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I have some photos from Siem Reap in the Travel gallery on my website:
www.theflyingcamera.com

The wet season is a good time to be there as the moats around the temples will be full, so you can get great photos of the buildings reflected in the water. I took a side trip to Mount Kulen (sp?), which is mostly visited by Cambodians. Being up a mountain, the weather is a little more temperate, and you're in the shade of trees most of the time. I had a couple of Cambodian teenagers challenge me to a foot race at one point (I politely declined, as the race course was over rocks and boulders, I'm fat, and I was wearing hiking boots!). There are several spots worth the visit there - a freshwater spring whose waters are crystal clear, and perhaps six feet down, there is some kind of thermal layer or something happening that keeps sand suspended in the water below that level - the actual bottom is much deeper than the sand layer. If you watch it carefully, you can see the sand layer swirling and churning. Not far along from the spring there is the river of 1000 lingas - I don't know if there are actually 1000 lingas carved into the riverbed, but there are definitely hundreds. If the stream is flowing clear, you can also see the near 1000 year old carvings of Vishnu and his wife in the stream bed.

Not far from the riverbed carvings is the waterfall. It's a good 50-60 feet tall, and impressive. There are costume rental kiosks set up there and the local Cambodians will rent costumes that represent historical periods and people to dress up in and pose for photos by the waterfall. I hiked down to the bottom of the falls, which gets VERY slippery. They may well have improved access since I was there in 2003, but at one point there was only a ladder made of damp driftwood held together with glorified string and a couple rusty nails (not very confidence inspiring).

Even though it's kind of tacky, the Wax Museum in Siem Reap was actually somewhat informative, and it certainly shed light on current Cambodian society and recent history. Also worth the visit was Artisans D'Angkor. In addition to the somewhat overpriced souvenirs, they have a school for local youth where they train them in traditional arts and crafts, helping to preserve their heritage and pass it on to new generations. If you time it right you can watch stonecarving, woodworking, and silk weaving in progress.

 

[raid]

Stunning photos Nelson!

Yes I think the heat was at its peak two months ago, I will be there during the wet season which is said to be the best time to visit Cambodia from what I can read so that's good, I just hope there won't be too much rain and flood.

Thanks for your feedback. I guess there will be even more tourists during the summer. I will check Battambang it seems not too far away and accessible by boat.

I agree 100%. Stunning.

 

[Kingston]

Thank you oftheherd and TheFlyingCamera.
I arrived there last sunday and the weather is difficult to cope with, that's for sure, so hot and humid, with heavy rains, but as long as I can avoid a flood in my apartment I'd be happy with it! I really enjoy the city so far.
Thank you for recommending Mount Kulen and the waterfall, I didn't think about these but you made we want to go do the hiking! As for Artisans d'Angkor, it's actually where I'm working 🙂 The photos in your gallery look very good, I hope I'll be able to make some good ones as well although with the rain falling at any time I'm afraid to carry my camera around!

 

[Pablito]

Having done a lot of work in Cambodia, I have to say the phenomenon of Siem Reap is rather awful. Attempts to preserve the vast material remains of the Khmer empire are continually at odds with a deeply corrupt government and business community. The so-called national museum in Siem Reap is a private, for-profit venture run by the Thais, full of objects of questionable provenance. Privatization rules the day, at the expense of the cultural patrimony of the nation. Thank goodness for UNESCO, and the various foreign governments dedicated to preservation, and of course to the dedicated Cambodians who work with them. Personally, I find Siem Reap hard to take, with all the drunken tourists having their "fish massages" or other massages. Don't get me wrong, I love Cambodia deeply, but Siem Reap is all about exploitation on every level. What a shame, it used to be a charming French Colonial town, but those days are long gone. For day to day life, give me Phnom Penh any day.

As for Artisans d'Angkor, a noble enterprise. But how unrealistic. The same stuff, and honestly, of the same quality, can be found in the markets for a fraction of the cost. Of course you have to bargain and so many tourists don't feel comfortable bargaining. I wish A d'A well, though.

 

[Mystyler]

Having done a lot of work in Cambodia, I have to say the phenomenon of Siem Reap is rather awful. Attempts to preserve the vast material remains of the Khmer empire are continually at odds with a deeply corrupt government and business community. The so-called national museum in Siem Reap is a private, for-profit venture run by the Thais, full of objects of questionable provenance. Privatization rules the day, at the expense of the cultural patrimony of the nation. Thank goodness for UNESCO, and the various foreign governments dedicated to preservation, and of course to the dedicated Cambodians who work with them. Personally, I find Siem Reap hard to take, with all the drunken tourists having their "fish massages" or other massages. Don't get me wrong, I love Cambodia deeply, but Siem Reap is all about exploitation on every level. What a shame, it used to be a charming French Colonial town, but those days are long gone. For day to day life, give me Phnom Penh any day.

Cambodia is probably one of the friendliest countries I have visited and the poor work-a-day Cambodians get a raw deal thanks to neighbouring countries trying to get their hands on whatever they can for as little as they can...the same is happening in Laos as well. It's a sore point so I'll leave it there.

You simply must go to the "Killing Fields" (Choeung Ek) and Tuol Sleng while in Phnom Penh to really get an idea as to why the country is still so agricultural. Just be advised that what has been seen, cannot be unseen. Some brutal acts carried out and something you'd think couldn't be repeated.
Best coffee I've ever had was buried deep in the Russian Markets there in PP too.

Battambang is indeed worth a visit and Mondulkiri provence is gorgeous but getting up there (indeed anywhere) during the wet is tricky. I can also recommend Kep and Kampot in the south. There is a tourist party spot in the south as well that I can't remember the name of at this point in time - best avoided as it is full of drugs, alcohol and Creepy White Guys out on the prowl for "hot asian babes".

The heat I could handle...but throw in the humidity and I'm gone. Take a backpack full of water if hiking, we carried litres each day and supplemented that with additional bottles purchased throughout the day.

The food is incredible and like nothing else in the region. Not like Vietnamese, not like Thai, not like anything else...and you can find awesome fusions between Khmer and French cooking...

Anyway, you've probably found most of this out now, it's an awesome place.

 

[Mystyler]

There is a tourist party spot in the south as well that I can't remember the name of at this point in time - best avoided as it is full of drugs, alcohol and Creepy White Guys out on the prowl for "hot asian babes".

Sihanoukville!!!

It's a pretty place, but not really "Cambodia". I'd go for the beaches, but I've got better beaches on my doorstep. 😛

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Sihanoukville!!!

It's a pretty place, but not really "Cambodia". I'd go for the beaches, but I've got better beaches on my doorstep. 😛

Yeah, but your beaches in Washington State can't be snorkeled for tropical fish in nought but a speedo 🙂

Another thing to watch for in Cambodia is the french-style bread. That, soft cheese, and ice factories are the best gifts to Cambodia from the French. I remember breakfast in my hotel every morning that included fresh bread, soft cheese (I think it was Vache que Rie, but I could be mistaken), and fruit spread as an alternative to the cheese. Oh, how heavenly!

 

[Mystyler]

Yeah, but your beaches in Washington State can't be snorkeled for tropical fish in nought but a speedo 🙂

Another thing to watch for in Cambodia is the french-style bread. That, soft cheese, and ice factories are the best gifts to Cambodia from the French. I remember breakfast in my hotel every morning that included fresh bread, soft cheese (I think it was Vache que Rie, but I could be mistaken), and fruit spread as an alternative to the cheese. Oh, how heavenly!

Western Australia. 😉

How could I forget the bread!! It really is a weird and wonderful place, I'd be going back there this Sunday with the other half if I wasn't saving annual leave for "one last" big trip at the end of the year.

 

[JohnTF]

(I think it was Vache que Rie, but I could be mistaken), and fruit spread as an alternative to the cheese. Oh, how heavenly![/QUOTE]

La Vache qui Rit-- Laughing Cow--

Common, but I ate in in Morocco -- it was soft, but survived 40C.

To the OP, I am sorry my photo friend/muse/model just returned from two years in Cambodia and cannot help you there-- but sounds as if you have some well travelled folks here.

Are you relying on the one camera?

I took a Nikonos when I hiked the Grand Canyon, it certainly is a great camera to stand up to abuse and weather-- plus they are certainly cheap now. Was really the reason I had that one.

Should be quite the journey-- a young person's. ;-)

Regards, John

 

[hugivza]

Be prepared to get up early before the dawn particularly if you want to get to temples like Angkor Wat for the sunrise, and also in my view what is the most exquisite of the temples, but the smallest and because of this access is restricted: Banteay Srey (Citadel of the Women) CE 967.

Planning is important: a couple of good books which I would recommend: "Angkor" by Dawn Rooney (Odyssey $27.95) and Michael Petrochenko's "Focussing on the Angkor Temples - The Guidebook".

Enjoy!

 

[Nelson Tan]

Before I went to Cambodia, I visited this website for photo tips and inspiration. Hope you'll find this helpful...

http://roel.me/cambodia-a-photographers-guide/

 

[Strangeluv]

Sihanoukville!!!

It's a pretty place, but not really "Cambodia". I'd go for the beaches, but I've got better beaches on my doorstep. 😛

In all honesty, drop Sihanoukville and go directly by boat to Koh Rong Samloem.
Rent a bungalow for USD 25 a day and chill. No roads, a few hours of electricity and the whitest beach you'll ever see 🙂

 

[blue4130]

I agree, Koh Rong is a great place to get away from the cities.

 

[Kingston]

Wow so nice! I'll definitely consider Koh Rong and its 25$ bungallows!

Thank you Nelson for the link, it is quite interesting indeed!

Mystyler, thank you for your advice as well, I will probably be in Phnom Penh next week and I hope I will get to see the Killing Fields.
Hugizva, thanks for advising Banteay Srey!

John: Haha yes I'm already used to eat Vache Qui Rit a lot, but if I really need cheese I might buy some! So far I'm enjoying Chinese biscuits I used to buy in Beijing, they are quite cheap, and some Japanese Mochi as well.
Otherwise, I agree with the posts that the food here is very tasty, even when on budget like me (I try to spend less than 2$ for lunch and less than 3$ for evening). Much easier to find good meat than in Beijing for instance.
Yes I will only rely on the Yashica, I considered buying a Nikonos as well before, but I think the Yashica will do!
So far, I didn't have much time to tour things, but I'll start taking more pictures and hopefully post them here soon!