Cheap Light Meter Recommendations

[Steve M.]

I'm looking for a cheap light meter, and it's essentially down to a Sekonic Auto Lumi 86 or a Gossen Pilot 2 at this point. The difficulty w/ these cheap meters is having to choose between older (some of them VERY old) selenium meters, or the somewhat newer CDS meters, all of which seem to take the 1.35 V Wein batteries that cost too much to be replacing on a regular basis. Either way I can forget about low light metering, but at least w/ the selenium meters the initial purchase price is all there is.

I like the Gossen's looks and size, but it looks fragile. On the other hand, the Auto Lumi is really old. Anyone out there have any experience w/ either of these, or has another meter they would recommend? I'm determined to keep it $30 or under including shipping.

 

[Darshan]

I have a Sekonic L-208 and can't be happier. I have shot over 15 rolls with my M4 using the Sekonic and all the photos have come out perfect.

 

[crawdiddy]

I've used the Gossen Pilot and Pilot 2. The Pilot is slightly more robust, and possibly more accurate. But the Pilot 2 is ok. As you said, low light metering is not the best, but these meters are still useful in low light, because you can sort of "meter around the edges" and see when they begin to register. That way, you're not totally guessing about exposure.

You can't go too far wrong for $25.

 

[Roger Hicks]

How cheap? You can buy quite a good meter without spending a fortune. How much is good exposure worth to you? Selenium meters are just not sensitive enough for me (if there's plenty of light I can guess); CdS meters have unacceptable lag. Why not buy a decent silicon cell meter? You might care to look at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/meter models.html, about buying a used exposure meter.


Cheers,

R.

 

[Steve M.]

Well, 30 bucks w/ shipping. That's my limit. I'm going to be using just one old folder and another old Leica, and wanted to have a meter that was sort of the same "vintage". The Gossen is probably too new, but it's selenium cell keeps it in the vintage category.

I like crawdiddy's idea about metering around the edges (or taking a reading in the lowest light possible for the meter, then figuring out how much darker your subject might be I guess).

I just got tired of all the expense & aggravation of the newer stuff; the scanners, computers, etc, so I'm selling everything but an enlarger, a couple of old, meter less cameras, and now I need a meter for my idea to go fully analog.

 

[Roger Hicks]

From the module cited:

As we repeatedly say, just about any approach to metering can be made to work - as long as the meter works. A lot of old meters don't, and we believe that it is very foolish to try to economize too much on meters. This is especially true if you buy sight unseen, over the internet. By the time you have bought three or four that need repair, you could have bought one that worked, or had a decent non-working meter (such as a Weston Master) repaired.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Steve M.]

I know, but there's a little Gossen Pilot 2 for sale at my price point. The seller says it is accurate and he accepts a return. So I can't decide between it and the Auto Lumi 86 elsewhere w/ the same guarantees.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I agree with Roger 100%. Economizing on a meter is dumb; a good meter is the most important accessory you'll own. There simply are no good meters for $30, not even used ones (unless you want one that needs recalibrated and its cell replaced at $100 or so). For $100-$150 you can buy a good used meter like a Minolta Autometer IVF or a Gossen Luna Pro Digital that uses modern batteries, modern silicon meter cells, and is ACCURATE. Digital meters are more durable anyway, despite their cheap plasticy feel. No moving parts to break.

 

[Trooper]

I just checked a Sekonic from the 1960's against a new one, and it is consistently a stop towards the dark side, but still functioning. Buy quality one time, or buy cheap multiple times--you'll likely be better buying quality once. Kinda what Roger is hinting at as well...

I'd spent the cash to get a good meter that will last for years. I prefer the incident meters with a white dome, but the Sekonic L-208 is pretty tempting. If you want vintage, the Sekonic L-398 is essentially unchanged for at least the last 40 years from the L-28.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I use a Weston Master 650. It had been left in the Box for decades, and is still good. I had a 715 that was good- but just went out. Most of these were antique store funds, so I could test them.

 

[Livesteamer]

On the recomendation of a fellow RFF'er I recently picked up a Sekonic 158 for all of $15.00 off e bay. It's small, and agrees with the meter in my M6 so I use it when I carry my IIIc. You can find good old meters but you need to check them against a known meter and get to know them. Just my experience. Joe

 

[Steve M.]

Right. I had a Weston once, and it was really nice and quite accurate. It was also darned heavy. That Sekonic 158 sounds good too.

It's pretty hard to equate quality and price w/light meters if we're talking outdoors lighting. I just sold a Sekonic L308B that was giving the same good light readings as the one in my recently departed Nikon n8008s. But I got comparable readings from an ancient $5 GE selenium meter. Unfortunately, it makes Brian's Weston meter look small and light, and I need my reading glasses to see the numerous tiny numerals on the dial.

 

[Steve M.]

OK, this has been fun. I bought a tiny Gossen Pilot 2 that's alleged to be accurate for $16.50 shipped, and a neat little Kalimar selenium meter for $7.36 shipped. It's supposed to work like new.

Got $6.14 left. I'll look for another small meter, or buy some cat food.

 

[zauhar]

How embarrassing. I just bought a "tundra" brand se meter for exactly $30.

I'm sure you all recognize the name. ;-)

it's just to make up for the dead meter on the canon 7 I recently bought .

 

[PKR]

Over the years, I've always tried to guess at readings before confirming them with a meter. I'm usually fairly close, within a stop or so in most cases. When taking a zone system class in college, we all used Weston V meters (1960s). Later I used Gossen and Minolta meters. Always good quality meters. I think at this point, I would rather guess at exposures than use a meter that might not be accurate. Lots of the older meters are of inferior build quality and long out of calibration. I think, in picking a meter, i would look for something current and of good quality. Check the accuracy against a new meter found at a camera store or have a repairman confirm the accuracy, before you begin using it. Also, be sure to use the correct batteries in the unit, as incorrect ones will produce incorrect readings. Meters that required Mercury Cells, often lacked a voltage regulation circuit in the meter. They relied on the voltage stability of the Mercury Cells. If you buy one of these meters, be careful to pick proper batteries, or maybe install a battery regulator, sold by some repair shops.

 

[Brian Legge]

I started with a Gossen Luna Pro. Recalibrated it to work with current batteries. Great meter and it works wonderfully in low light but it is on the bulky side. A bundle I picked up came with an old Gossen Pilot. Once the zero point was fixed the meter was dead on hen compared to the Luna Pro and an in camera meter with a reading off of a grey card.

Basically, just lol for something accurate that does what you need in your ideal form facto so you get in the habit of having the meter with you all the time. New or old is secondary. Th Pilt just became my primary meter because it does incedent readings and fits in my pocket, even thigh I have a much better meter