Choosing an M

Suse

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Hi

I've just signed up to the forum. 🙂 I'm currently a Canon 5D user, but have long hankered after a Leica (film). I'm very tempted to switch over to the M8, as I'm mainly a street/candid shooter, the 5D is a bit too chunky for that kind of thing.

While I wait for people to start using the M8, I thought I'd satify my craving by starting with an M lens or 2, and a film body. The question is which body?

I have always been drawn to Leica because of the M6. But getting either a classic or a TTL is a huge dent in the budget, when you need to get lenses. I've spotted a second hand M3 for about half the price, and wondered if someone with more experience could help explain the differences?

Any pointers or advice would be very welcome!
 
m6 (ttl?) or m3...

m6 (ttl?) or m3...

well those are certainly both VERY capable camera's with the fundemental differences (in my opinion) being that the m6 has a meter and the m3 does not as well as different lens mounts. (there are of course a slew of other differences but these are the ones i reckon you should consider)
as to which one to buy is a matter of your taste (and experience). the leap from a 5d to a lecia m is pretty serious... neither the m6 nor the m3 have auto aperture... or auto anything for that matter. understanding the metering system/pattern of the m6 will take a little bit of work. learning how to load film under pressure and quickly will take a little work. both camera's will fundementally effect your style of shooting...
as per prices... i don't see a huge gap between really good used m3's and m6 classics (non ttl). both produce exceptional images... both are tough as nails... both are quiet and relatively un-obtrusive. the different lens mount is not a real big issue as you can buy adapters to mount leica screw mount to m mount bodies.
if you intend to follow up with an m8 i'd suggest thinking m6 or m7 (auto aperture) as the investment in later model glass will be an asset with all bodies.
don't forget the m5 if money is an issue or the mighty m4!
 
Hi

Thanks guys. Auto isn't a big issue. I grew up on film, (albeit SLR) have a small darkroom for b&w developing, and have never used av etc on the 5D. The auto focus is handy though! 😀 I regularly use Zeiss/Olympus lenses on the 5D.

Is there a difference in image style/quality between the M3/6, pre-lens choice?
 
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eeek

eeek

i stand corrected. m mount it is on the m3!
m6 ttl, 35mm f2 'cron asph and voigtlander 75mm f2.5. mac, scanner and light tight bathroom... i'm as happy as i have ever been in 20 years of shooting!
to quote another rff member... "now i shop for developer and film instead of more gear!"
 
Welcome to the group... 😛

I use both the M3 and M6 and while I like the metering of the M6 my favorite has to be my 2 M3's.
If you get the M3 with a few lens such as the 35, 50, 90, and 135mm and want to move up to the M6 these lens will work fine on the M6.
The M3 though uses the 35mm lens with eyes since it does not have 35mm frame lines.
 
Welcome Suze, for my beens I'd be looking at the M2 or M4 over the M3 just because thay both have 35mm frame lines (as Mango has stated). Get a good used one and you'd also get a reasonable return if and when you decide to sell it.
 
Welcome to the forum, Suse!

If you already have the M8 in focus, you might prefer the M6 TTL over the M6 classic, since both (M6 TTL and M8) have the 'wrong way shutter speed dial' (sorry, I love this name).
 
If I went for an M4, how much bulk does a hot shoe meter add? (being as I'm looking for something descreet for candid etc. What does the hot shoe connection do? Would I be ok with just a hand held meter on these non-metered M's? I never used metering on my film SLRs, so please forgive the ignorant questions!
 
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If your favorite lens is 50mm then you should go with an M3 which has the bigest and best 50 finder. If your favorite lens is a 35mm, go with a Classic M6 which , if patient you, can get for 1000. I recently got an M3 just to shoot the 50mm lens, it is the best camera made for a 50.
 
Welcome to the forum. The hotshoe meters such as the CV II, (Cosina Voigtlander), are just held by the shoe. There is no electrical contact. I find the meter small and unobtrusive but have to be careful to not smash it too hard. It is like using a handheld meter in that you take your readings and adjust the camera parameters. 🙂
 
Suse said:
...Would I be ok with just a hand held meter on these non-metered M's?...
Yes, indeed. I wouldn't use anything else with my M3 and M2. It is much more discreet than a metered camera, since you don't have to raise the camera to the eye to set the exposure, and it doesn't add to the camera bulk like a hotshoe-mounted meter.

Richard
 
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