CineStill Df96 Monobath - any experience ?

Huss said:
It works with dye based B&W films like TMAX, Delta, so you should be able to get some sort of result with C41.
But I don't want to experiment with it in case it contaminates my DF96 for regular film!
Hmmm, maybe I will on roll #19... if someone is willing to send me a roll of C41!
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TMX and Delta are not dye based, they are silver halide B&W films.

Colour films are based on silver layers - the monobath will develop and fix them but you will need to work out a time. And, of course, what it will look like is anyone’s guess. The tonality the monobath gives is not very flexible, even with B&W film.

Marty
 
Freakscene said:
TMX and Delta are not dye based, they are silver halide B&W films.

Colour films are based on silver layers - the monobath will develop and fix them but you will need to work out a time. And, of course, what it will look like is anyone’s guess. The tonality the monobath gives is not very flexible, even with B&W film.

Marty
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Ok I should have said they are tabular grain films with colour dye technology. Which is why it takes double the time to process them with DF96 as it needs to clear the dye base.
 
While you can cross-process C41 sometimes with B&W, I feel like DF96's mixture of developer and fixer would make it nearly impossible to get decent results without wasting a lot of both film and developer.
 
Not C41, but have done TMax 100 a couple times in the Cinestill monobath. I double the development time. After a lot of washing there's still a slight pink hue to the negative, and even the water that drips off it. Works pretty well though, scanned with Epson V700 as black and white negative:

HamptonOrangery002 by Maryland Photos, on Flickr
 
After having developed several rolls of Ilford Pan F 50 in it, I would not recommend DF96 for that film. The results are very thin and underdeveloped, and I was generous with the dev times.

On the upside, the Lomo Fantome 8 film is fantastic in DF96! Grain free, very sharp, perfect density.
 
One thing I've noticed with DF96 is at about the 10th roll bromide drag rears its ugly head unless you modify agitation. Must be due to depletion.
I have now added one twist/turn agitation at the 30 second mark and that seems to have helped. I have now developed 15 rolls in my second batch and have placed another order with freestyle photo.biz for more. I think I should be able to get a few more rolls out of it until the fresh stuff arrives.
 
Just developed my 16th roll in my second batch if DF96. Seems 16 is the limit, as the Kentmere 400 looked underdeveloped. Of note, this batch I mixed up myself from the packet they sent, the first batch which lasted longer was the ready to go liquid form.

On the upside, Kentmere 400 dries really flat which makes it very easy to scan. Arista 400 has a curl on the width side, Lomo Fantome 8 curls like a pretzel.
 
Cross post:

Just developed a roll of Eastman 5234 in DF96. It turned the developer green!! Brand new batch too, hope it is not ruined.

Also only got 33 exposures on what was meant to be a 36exp roll!

FYI came out great - 4 minutes @75.
 
maryland_fotos said:
Nice! What film is this?
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Hello, sorry I did not see this sooner! Lately I've been shooting Fomapan 100 at 200 ISO without pushing in processing. I really like the results I get from that film, both at 100 and 200, haven't tried shooting at 400, but Foma claims you can shoot up to two stops underexposed and process normally.

Only thing I've noticed with Foma 100 is that it seems more susceptible to bromide marks coming down from the sprocket holes. DF96 gives you options for processing with different agitation at different temperatures, I have taken to using the constant agitation method with Fomapan and haven't had any more marks.
 
Eastman 5234 in DF96, shot with a Rollei QZ35W. The Rollei allows you to manually set ISO all the way down to ISO 6. Try doing that with a Contax!:

 
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