Comparing Ilford 120 Films

Don't let the PanF+ 50 hang around before you develop it. The latent image is not very stable at all! I couldn't give you exact time frames but I got loss of image after months rather than years undeveloped.
Like Fomapan's reciprocity failure, they aren't kidding.

Good info to know. Thanks for sharing.
 
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I’ve used HP5, Ortho+, and XP2 before, but Analogue Wonderland had a slight deal on this lot, so I’ve taken the plunge. Their arrival coincides with the delivery of a Mamiya C330F, with the 80mm lens. Looking forward to exploring the differences.

The Mamiya C330f is a brilliant camera. Also, a TLR is great for B&W because you don't have to look through the filter on the taking lens.

- Murray
 
Rob, FP4 in 120 is an exceptional film in terms of tonality. One of my very favourites.

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I love the Deltas. Fine and nice grain, tolerate overexposure without getting too soft in the highlights. You can work yourselfup the curve without loosing much and recover shaddow detail in return very easily.
 
Well, they all look good, I must say. I might delay shooting for a few weeks, as the weather and light is poor in Edinburgh at the moment. No shadows, and I like playing with contrast.
The Mamiya looks to be in excellent condition, but I should put a roll through it soon to test it, so I might sacrifice the HP5 to that cause this week.
 
Which films you like out of this pile will depend mostly on which developers you use.

For instance, 99% of my film is developed in Rodinal. Pan F+ and Ortho Plus in Rodinal are both beautiful, but Delta 100 and FP4+ in Rodinal are somewhat underwhelming for me. If you use ID11 or HC-110, you'll likely have totally different opinions.
 
Which films you like out of this pile will depend mostly on which developers you use.

For instance, 99% of my film is developed in Rodinal. Pan F+ and Ortho Plus in Rodinal are both beautiful, but Delta 100 and FP4+ in Rodinal are somewhat underwhelming for me. If you use ID11 or HC-110, you'll likely have totally different opinions.
CK that seems like a backwards way to work. I chose a film for the light/task/camera size.... portrait, travel, landscape....35mm camera or 8x10.
I process virtually all my films in pyrocat hd or pyro.....& use everything from FP4, to Delta 400
 
I don't know about backwards, @38Deardorff; it's a combination of aesthetic preferences and practical considerations.

I don't like working with powders, so that rules out a good chunk of developers (nor have I ever thought ID11 or D76 gave me anything other than average results with any film). I used to use LC29 a lot when I was still mostly using fast film, but now I rarely shoot enough film that demands it to justify keeping a bottle around.

On the other hand, Rodinal keeps forever, increases sharpness (and grain, admittedly), and gives the best results with two of my favourite films (Pan F+ and Fomapan 100). So I've always got that in the house... but I know from personal experience that some films really don't look good (or at their best) in Rodinal.

(XP2 does work weirdly well in Rodinal, for what it's worth. I can't remember the last time I had some developed in C41.)

As such, when I'm looking through films, I often think "would I want to develop this in Rodinal, or would it be worth buying a different developer specifically for this one film?" For instance, if I was planning on shooting HP5+ a lot again, I'd get another bottle of LC29. But am I going to get a bottle of TMAX developer just to get the best out of those two Kodak films? Probably not - so I tend not to buy TMax 100 as a result.
 
I don't know about backwards, @38Deardorff; it's a combination of aesthetic preferences and practical considerations.

I don't like working with powders, so that rules out a good chunk of developers (nor have I ever thought ID11 or D76 gave me anything other than average results with any film). I used to use LC29 a lot when I was still mostly using fast film, but now I rarely shoot enough film that demands it to justify keeping a bottle around.

On the other hand, Rodinal keeps forever, increases sharpness (and grain, admittedly), and gives the best results with two of my favourite films (Pan F+ and Fomapan 100). So I've always got that in the house... but I know from personal experience that some films really don't look good (or at their best) in Rodinal.

(XP2 does work weirdly well in Rodinal, for what it's worth. I can't remember the last time I had some developed in C41.)

As such, when I'm looking through films, I often think "would I want to develop this in Rodinal, or would it be worth buying a different developer specifically for this one film?" For instance, if I was planning on shooting HP5+ a lot again, I'd get another bottle of LC29. But am I going to get a bottle of TMAX developer just to get the best out of those two Kodak films? Probably not - so I tend not to buy TMax 100 as a result.
I guess we just consider things differently. Although i used different developers in the long past, these days staining developers are my standard so the only thing i do differently is hunt up the bottle of Adotech IV if i'm working with a few remaining rolls of CHS 20, otherwise.
 
Although i used different developers in the long past, these days staining developers are my standard
Yeah, it sounds like you're using Pyrocat HD etc. the same way I am Rodinal - I imagine the only difference is that HP5+ doesn't look terrible in Pyrocat!

I have thought about swapping to something like 510 Pyro, I just haven't made the jump yet. And I do really like Fomapan 100 in Rodinal...
 
Which films you like out of this pile will depend mostly on which developers you use.

For instance, 99% of my film is developed in Rodinal. Pan F+ and Ortho Plus in Rodinal are both beautiful, but Delta 100 and FP4+ in Rodinal are somewhat underwhelming for me. If you use ID11 or HC-110, you'll likely have totally different opinions.
Can you clarify how Delta 100 looks better in ID-11/HC-110 than in Rodinal? Is it tonality or dynamic range? My Delta 100 shot above is in Rodinal (along with all of my other black and white films) and I definitely notice that this pairing is sharp and contrasty, while the Pan F+ and Rodinal combination has far more shadow detail and range in the mid-tones. Just curious as to what I should expect if I were to try other developers with Delta 100.
 
Can you clarify how Delta 100 looks better in ID-11/HC-110 than in Rodinal? Is it tonality or dynamic range?
Honestly, it's been a LONG time since I last used Delta 100, but I have a vague memory that T-grain films (like Delta) were sub-optimal in Rodinal compared to other developers. I can't remember why, and I'd have to look through my negatives to figure out why I've got that idea in my head. The only photos I've taken on Delta 100 that made it onto my Flickr account were developed in LC29, so I'm guessing that became my preferred option for that film for one reason or another.

Here's a print from one in LC29, for what it's worth:

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Very sharp, very contrasty, and quite low-grain. Not a bad combo.

Whatever issue I had with it in Rodinal may be limited to 35mm, to be honest - 35mm HP5+ in Rodinal is notoriously grainy, but medium format HP5+ in Rodinal isn't too bad. Maybe Delta has similar issues.
 
Honestly, it's been a LONG time since I last used Delta 100, but I have a vague memory that T-grain films (like Delta) were sub-optimal in Rodinal compared to other developers. I can't remember why, and I'd have to look through my negatives to figure out why I've got that idea in my head. The only photos I've taken on Delta 100 that made it onto my Flickr account were developed in LC29, so I'm guessing that became my preferred option for that film for one reason or another.

Here's a print from one in LC29, for what it's worth:

9446258240_212e573ca8_b.jpg


Very sharp, very contrasty, and quite low-grain. Not a bad combo.

Whatever issue I had with it in Rodinal may be limited to 35mm, to be honest - 35mm HP5+ in Rodinal is notoriously grainy, but medium format HP5+ in Rodinal isn't too bad. Maybe Delta has similar issues.

Delta is an epitaxial grain film, not flat/t-grain. They are very different. Neither, to me, look that good in Rodinal. But @Chriscrawfordphoto likes Rodinal with TMX, however, so tastes vary.
 
Honestly, it's been a LONG time since I last used Delta 100, but I have a vague memory that T-grain films (like Delta) were sub-optimal in Rodinal compared to other developers. I can't remember why, and I'd have to look through my negatives to figure out why I've got that idea in my head. The only photos I've taken on Delta 100 that made it onto my Flickr account were developed in LC29, so I'm guessing that became my preferred option for that film for one reason or another.

Here's a print from one in LC29, for what it's worth:

9446258240_212e573ca8_b.jpg


Very sharp, very contrasty, and quite low-grain. Not a bad combo.

Whatever issue I had with it in Rodinal may be limited to 35mm, to be honest - 35mm HP5+ in Rodinal is notoriously grainy, but medium format HP5+ in Rodinal isn't too bad. Maybe Delta has similar issues.
I like Delta 100 in LC29 too. It gives very "clean" images which I really like but some people seem to think that Delta 100 looks too digital.
 
Don't let the PanF+ 50 hang around before you develop it. The latent image is not very stable at all! I couldn't give you exact time frames but I got loss of image after months rather than years undeveloped.
It happens with Delta 100 also. I learned that the hard way.
 
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