Contax I ribbons

[Erik van Straten]

Can also be that there is friction against the cover plate.

Erik.

I'm wondering if the cover plate has any type of spring on the back? I think is something missing on my plate.[/quote]

No, I do not remember any spring. My cameras are closed now, I can't take a look! But I remember that it is very important to try the shutter with the cover plate in place. (I closed it provisorily with two screws diagonally placed, so it was easier to open and close again, and again, and again ...). Without the cover the shutter does not work correctly.

Erik.

 

[Deklari]

I'm wondering if the cover plate has any type of spring on the back? I think is something missing on my plate.

No, I do not remember any spring. My cameras are closed now, I can't take a look! But I remember that it is very important to try the shutter with the cover plate in place. (I closed it provisorily with two screws diagonally placed, so it was easier to open and close again, and again, and again ...). Without the cover the shutter does not work correctly.

Erik.[/quote]

My lower curtain stock sometime at latch. Dose the cover press/push shutter curtain release latch?

 

[Erik van Straten]

[[/quote]

My lower curtain stock sometime at latch. Dose the cover press/push shutter curtain release latch?[/quote]

What latch you mean exactly? The "flap" on top?

Erik.

 

[Dralowid]

Does this help?

IMG_2877 by dralowid, on Flickr

As you can see the cover plate has two springs that help push the release 'flap' shown at the top onto the shutter blind which then hooks into the two rectangular slots on either side.

As the shutter is fired the camera pushes the flap away from the top blind and off goes the first blind, with a bit of luck!

All this is quite different from the Contax II/Kiev which is why my next job is to dismantle my nice new shutter blind assembly and fit the old Contax I blind.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Deklari, I am sorry. I was completely forgotten the two small springs riveted to the cover. I hope I caused no problems.

In my cameras the part on the right in Michaels picture was no separate part, but was fixed to the chassis of the camera.

On one of the cameras the hinges of the "flap" were bent. Caused problems. It took long before I found the cause. It is of course very important that the flap is on the right spot and yes, the flap touches the springs of the cover. It is all clear to me now I see Michaels great pictures.

Erik.

 

[Deklari]

Does this help?

IMG_2877 by dralowid, on Flickr

As you can see the cover plate has two springs that help push the release 'flap' shown at the top onto the shutter blind which then hooks into the two rectangular slots on either side.

As the shutter is fired the camera pushes the flap away from the top blind and off goes the first blind, with a bit of luck!

All this is quite different from the Contax II/Kiev which is why my next job is to dismantle my nice new shutter blind assembly and fit the old Contax I blind.

Excellent! On my cover this spring is missing. I need to make it.

 

[Deklari]

Deklari, I am sorry. I was completely forgotten the two small springs riveted to the cover. I hope I caused no problems.

In my cameras the part on the right in Michaels picture was no separate part, but was fixed to the chassis of the camera.

On one of the cameras the hinges of the "flap" were bent. Caused problems. It took long before I found the cause. It is of course very important that the flap is on the right spot and yes, the flap touches the springs of the cover. It is all clear to me now I see Michaels great pictures.

Erik.

My also in one piece. I agree with you this flap very important part of the shutter. It's not only hold and release but also help to sett correct exposure

 

[Dralowid]

Although our Contax I cameras appear roughly the same outside the inside can be anyone's guess.

I thought Erik's and my camera were the same, first version with slow speeds, V4 (Kuc) or V3 (McKeowan), square nickel tripod bush and black balancing 'foot'?

Deklari's camera is later I think?

 

[Erik van Straten]

Although our Contax I cameras appear roughly the same outside the inside can be anyone's guess.

Confirms my theory that the whole Contax I project was to make a series of prototypes.

It's not only hold and release but also help to sett correct exposure

How will the flap help to set the correct exposure?

Erik.

 

[Deklari]

Although our Contax I cameras appear roughly the same outside the inside can be anyone's guess.

I thought Erik's and my camera were the same, first version with slow speeds, V4 (Kuc) or V3 (McKeowan), square nickel tripod bush and black balancing 'foot'?

Deklari's camera is later I think?

My Contax I not a last version. Shutter speed dial without arrow and not 4 screws in accessory shoe. I guess is Contax I "e" ?

 

[Deklari]

Confirms my theory that the whole Contax I project was to make a series of prototypes.



How will the flap help to set the correct exposure?

Erik.

In my unintended, it help to preset the distance between the two shutter curtains by stopping lower curtain at exact point. Without the flap lower curtain will continue moving up for about 3-5 mm

 

[Dralowid]

My Contax I not a last version. Shutter speed dial without arrow and not 4 screws in accessory shoe. I guess is Contax I "e" ?

Does your camera have the rangefinder eyepiece to the right or to the left of the viewfinder eyepiece?

 

[Deklari]

Does your camera have the rangefinder eyepiece to the right or to the left of the viewfinder eyepiece?

to the right of the viewfinder

 

[Erik van Straten]

to the right of the viewfinder

Does your camera have aluminium or brass curtains?

When the viewfinder is left, you probably have a "turning" rangefinder, like model 7.

Without screws in the accessory-shoe it is model 6 (in the book of Kuc.)

I have model 4, model 5 and model 7.

Erik.

 

[Deklari]

Does your camera have aluminium or brass curtains?

When the viewfinder is left, you probably have a "turning" rangefinder, like model 7.

Without screws in the accessory-shoe it is model 6 (in the book of Kuc.)

I have model 4, model 5 and model 7.

Erik.

It has brass curtains. Exterier as the last model, except screws, Y. serial number 1934/5 ? Actually another question. Brass curtains loosing a paint. Anyone has any experience to re-paint them?

 

[Erik van Straten]

It has brass curtains. Exterier as the last model, except screws, Y. serial number 1934/5 ? Actually another question. Brass curtains loosing a paint. Anyone has any experience to re-paint them?

You can chemically black them with "brass black", a kind of acid. Used by camera repairmen to hide scratches on the black finish.

Erik.

 

[Dralowid]

Actually another question. Brass curtains loosing a paint. Anyone has any experience to re-paint them?

A very fine spray or I wouldn't bother, Don't want to clog up the slats.

I reckon I have V4 (aluminium blinds) and V2...and a Super Nettel.

Have just put the 'NOS' Kiev ribbons through the friction clutches. It feels as if there is too much friction going on so I will carefully bend them out.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Brass curtains loosing a paint. Anyone has any experience to re-paint them?

I won't use paint. It can flake off and then you'll have a beautiful snow on your negatives.

Have just put the 'NOS' Kiev ribbons through the friction clutches. It feels as if there is too much friction going on so I will carefully bend them out.

Good luck!

Erik.

 

[Deklari]

Just general question to all Contax/s owners,
I do understand it is 80's years old camera. But, how well dose Contax I shutter perform?
For example, IF shutter well maintained, how often you got stick curtains or release button, any problem with exposure?

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Just general question to all Contax/s owners,
I do understand it is 80's years old camera. But, how well dose Contax I shutter perform?
For example, IF shutter well maintained, how often you got stick curtains or release button, any problem with exposure?

I can't comment about the original, but a well sorted II/III can be both accurate and reliable, whilst not giving the sorts of capping problems that seem to be far too common with the fast speeds of the post war IIa and IIIa designs. I think they're technically brilliant, personally, actually the finest rangefinders ever made. For example, few 80 year old Leicas can be made to work well with nothing more than a couple of ribbons, and fewer will have their rangefinders still as perfectly calibrated as the day they were made either. None will be as accurate then, or now.
Cheers
Brett