Deklari
Well-known
Good point. Actually it was cold here. I never thought about this
I will shut inside a few time and unload the film.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Oily lubricants freeze before grease does 
Highway 61
Revisited
Instead, I would remove the film in the darkroom right away as per Rick's advice, then wait for the camera to warm up, then look for debris inside the camera, then (very gently and very carefully not to overheat anything in the camera !) heat the camera on a radiator or with an hair dryer, then just try to make it work with no film in it.
Deklari
Well-known
Thanks, I unloaded film. No debris inside, It work a little and start do it again after 20 shuts. I can see issue with shutter cover plate. I guess, because my shutter cover plate has missing original spring and I have installed some different spring there. It cause a problem now. I need to fine a better replacement.
Deklari
Well-known
.. I totally wrong!. It nothing to do to the plate. It is my home-made shutter winding knob. Looks like I make it from too soft metal. Over time shutter speed selector has "shift" a little. This leads to desynchronization top curtain. Basically top roller/curtain not winding enough and everything shift, my 1/200 become 1/100, 1/500 become 1/200 ... and so on. I really love my hobby...!! [FONT=MS Trebuchet, Arial, Helvetica][/FONT]
[FONT=MS Trebuchet, Arial, Helvetica][/FONT]Highway 61
Revisited
You need to find a good original winding knob made of brass from a donor camera, wrecked otherwise... I totally wrong!. It nothing to do to the plate. It is my home-made shutter winding knob. Looks like I make it from too soft metal. Over time shutter speed selector has "shift" a little. This leads to desynchronization top curtain. Basically top roller/curtain not winding enough and everything shift, my 1/200 become 1/100, 1/500 become 1/200 ... and so on. I really love my hobby...!!
Deklari
Well-known
I think this camera was originally sale as a donor camera
I trying to make it work and I almost there
and Yes, You absolutely right !
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Any way to make a stronger part? Or at least stop it from shifting?
I should have used some 25/75 beam-splitter material to replace the half-mirror on my Contax I instead of the 50/50 beam-splitter. That would have given me much better contrast with poor mirror on the right side. Like using an orako/okaro filter on the Leica.
I should have used some 25/75 beam-splitter material to replace the half-mirror on my Contax I instead of the 50/50 beam-splitter. That would have given me much better contrast with poor mirror on the right side. Like using an orako/okaro filter on the Leica.
Deklari
Well-known
I sure it could be done. I looking for minimum "machine shop".
I have many old microscopes, what has some brass knobs. I will try to modify them for this.
Deklari
Well-known
I have fixed the issue and make a new knob. Hope will work longer at this time
Deklari
Well-known
Just for someone Who interesting how it work, and what is a critical parts
it may be difficult to understate for who never been there
it may be difficult to understate for who never been there
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Wow Deklari! I am just working on these parts! Thanks a lot!
Erik.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
I have a few issue: one is over winding, there is a winding stop mechanism (I have show as "Lubricate" on picture). The lever on film winding axle was miss the "stopping pin". The "stopping pin" moving back and forth by spring during winding. In my case it was stuck (at forth) and didn't stop the lever. It require a good lubrication.
Second issue with release mechanism. There is brass "pushing ring" under central gear. This ring was concave to separate the gear and winding wheel when you press the release button. In my case this ring not concaved enough (or changing angle over time).
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Oh, fantastic job on the drawing.
I'm sure that'll come in handy if I ever have to go back in.
I'm sure that'll come in handy if I ever have to go back in.
Dralowid
Michael
Deklari, Excellent description, many thanks! I have a film in the Contax at the moment but because I am a little afraid of upsetting things I do not understand I am using the same shutter speed for everything!
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Thanks to the drawing of Deklari I've got the camera going.
Erik.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
I glad it help. I want to say, it has interesting mechanical approach. I probably will never put this camera away as display item, even if I will got only 50% shuts from roll.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Yes, it is a most interesting mechanism. It can work in different ways. With the camera I am working on now I can get an amazing variety of shutter speeds by using only the white dot. With the red dot I can get none.
Erik.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
Yes, it is a most interesting mechanism. It can work in different ways. With the camera I am working on now I can get an amazing variety of shutter speeds by using only the white dot. With the red dot I can get none.
As you know, I make winding/speed knob by myself. I don't have white dot. I have open central part of the knob, I can see there is speed pin selector go. For sport group it has 3 notches, 100, 200, 500/1000 last one "sheering" by some separator. This is only working notches (speed) in my Contex. If I need select a speed I put the speed pin in one of those notches. Interesting what 1/100 notch (or white dot) working in all groups and give me 1/2, 1/5, 1/25, if I need 1/50 just move pin into 1/200 notch in "normal" group. Sound a little complicated, but it not. Just select 1/100 and only change the group if need a slower speed. However 1/200 and 1/500 and 1/1000 works in same way and giving additional 12 speed combination