Lodoiska
Newbie
Hi!
I am new here, and I have a question/problem I hope some of you might be able to help with.
I recently bought a Fujica G690BL with a 100mm lens, and I love the beast. But I found out the rangefinder is rather off. And of course I need to use it for something it wasn't meant to: repro work. At the closest fucusing distance (and sometimes even closer for some blur). I know, I know, I'm not supposed to do that.
I would really love if someone could let me know if there is a way to adjust the rangefinder to the actual frame of the negative? Or, I thought I could maybe put a ground glass in place of the film to frame, and then remove it and load the film? (Repro work is done in a studio, on a tripod). Has somebody tried it?
If anyone has experience pertaining to this, I'd love to hear it...
Thank you for any and all help!
Lodo
I am new here, and I have a question/problem I hope some of you might be able to help with.
I recently bought a Fujica G690BL with a 100mm lens, and I love the beast. But I found out the rangefinder is rather off. And of course I need to use it for something it wasn't meant to: repro work. At the closest fucusing distance (and sometimes even closer for some blur). I know, I know, I'm not supposed to do that.
I would really love if someone could let me know if there is a way to adjust the rangefinder to the actual frame of the negative? Or, I thought I could maybe put a ground glass in place of the film to frame, and then remove it and load the film? (Repro work is done in a studio, on a tripod). Has somebody tried it?
If anyone has experience pertaining to this, I'd love to hear it...
Thank you for any and all help!
Lodo
Last edited:
Prest_400
Multiformat
Fellow forumer Jchrome wrote about RF adjustment in his blog:
https://stillthrill.com/2015/07/13/how-to-adjust-your-fuji-rangefinder-in-under-5-minutes/
For close ups I know there is the auto up attachment, which is a close up diopter along with a VF parallax corrector. However it seems to be rare and expensive.
Working with the smallest aperture available (DoF) and GG focusing seems a precise option, fantastic if you could use the sheet film feature.
To end, the GAS option may be getting an RB67 or something similar.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://stillthrill.com/2015/07/13/how-to-adjust-your-fuji-rangefinder-in-under-5-minutes/
For close ups I know there is the auto up attachment, which is a close up diopter along with a VF parallax corrector. However it seems to be rare and expensive.
Working with the smallest aperture available (DoF) and GG focusing seems a precise option, fantastic if you could use the sheet film feature.
To end, the GAS option may be getting an RB67 or something similar.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lodoiska
Newbie
Hi! Thank for the link. I took the time to read it, and almost everything is explained but how he adjusted the rangefinder to to match the real frame... He explains how to get to it and move it, but not how to match it. Unless I missunderstood something?
Even without the sheet film, I could do the ground glass option. I just don't know how to do so. I've done a lot of photography, but never really have transformed/changed a camera. I know where to get grond glass, but not really how to install it in a camera that is not meant for it. Anyone has tried? Does it have to be exactly at the film plane? Or is about 2-3 mm further ok, if it is to be used for framing only (not for focusing)? Since I use the camera closer than its closest focusing distance, paralax correction is my main concern. The G690 have a kinda pin on both side of the film (top/bottom); it seems like a guide. Maybe I could lean the ground glass against them?
Thanks for the RB67 suggestion; I already have one (and love it; it was one of my first camera), but sadly the 6x9 is imperative for this project.
Even without the sheet film, I could do the ground glass option. I just don't know how to do so. I've done a lot of photography, but never really have transformed/changed a camera. I know where to get grond glass, but not really how to install it in a camera that is not meant for it. Anyone has tried? Does it have to be exactly at the film plane? Or is about 2-3 mm further ok, if it is to be used for framing only (not for focusing)? Since I use the camera closer than its closest focusing distance, paralax correction is my main concern. The G690 have a kinda pin on both side of the film (top/bottom); it seems like a guide. Maybe I could lean the ground glass against them?
Thanks for the RB67 suggestion; I already have one (and love it; it was one of my first camera), but sadly the 6x9 is imperative for this project.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Get a view camera, then. Doing repro work with a camera with 1.5m viewing distance and no TTL finder is pointless. and while the earlier Fujicas had a (rare and expensive) sheet film attachment, that was for rangefinder use only and has no ground glass.
Whatever you do, don't ruin a perfectly good Fujica with a home made modification - there are much better cameras for your purpose. Sell it, undamaged, and buy a Mamiya Press Super/Universal 23 and sheet film holder, or a Linhof Technika.
Whatever you do, don't ruin a perfectly good Fujica with a home made modification - there are much better cameras for your purpose. Sell it, undamaged, and buy a Mamiya Press Super/Universal 23 and sheet film holder, or a Linhof Technika.
oftheherd
Veteran
2nd sevo's suggestion. I didn't check ebay prices, but I wouldn't be surprised to find you could get as much for the Fuji as you would pay for a Mamiya Super Press 23. Maybe even with a cut film holder and a 6x9 film holder. They seem more rare, but 6x9 cut film holders were made for the Mamiya Press cameras.
Lodoiska
Newbie
Thank you Sevo and Oftheheard for your suggestions. Maybe I should have come here first! I would have gone the MamiyaPress route, as with the focusing back, it does indeed seem to be a better choice. I was not aware of that option on the Press. Although I am not interested in the sheet film (unavailable here, pricey to order, unsure if I could get it developped here either), I could go between backs on a tripod.
I would like to clarify one thing though: I never intended to "ruin" my Fujica. I just needed a way to see though it to adjust the rangefinder. Maybe I should have been clearer that I was looking for a temporary modification that would allow to use a ground glass to correctly adjust the viewfinder guides. And that question still holds: how to see what my camera sees in order to adjust the viewfinder's guide?
Since my project is already underway and booked to be shown in only a few weeks, I'll have to manage with my Fujica. But I'll be keeping a open eye for a suitable Mamiya Press for next time.
Thanks!
I would like to clarify one thing though: I never intended to "ruin" my Fujica. I just needed a way to see though it to adjust the rangefinder. Maybe I should have been clearer that I was looking for a temporary modification that would allow to use a ground glass to correctly adjust the viewfinder guides. And that question still holds: how to see what my camera sees in order to adjust the viewfinder's guide?
Since my project is already underway and booked to be shown in only a few weeks, I'll have to manage with my Fujica. But I'll be keeping a open eye for a suitable Mamiya Press for next time.
Thanks!
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^ The ground glass is no problem . But even cheaper ( and easier) is to put some opaque
packing tape onto the surfaces where the film edges ride for the width of the negative
(~ 82mm) and use that to focus on . If it's the same as the GL690 , then turn the film
adjuster to S(sheet) and with the back open and set on bulb ( I tape the shutter release in place) you can safely check your framing and focus . Heck if your patient and careful even scotch tape will work. I have the close up piece , but it's only going when I finally sell the entire kit . Have fun, Peter
packing tape onto the surfaces where the film edges ride for the width of the negative
(~ 82mm) and use that to focus on . If it's the same as the GL690 , then turn the film
adjuster to S(sheet) and with the back open and set on bulb ( I tape the shutter release in place) you can safely check your framing and focus . Heck if your patient and careful even scotch tape will work. I have the close up piece , but it's only going when I finally sell the entire kit . Have fun, Peter
Lodoiska
Newbie
Thanks Peter, that is MARVELOUS advice!! I guess I would have met the "getting the shutter to stay open" problem in the short run, even with the ground glass taped in place. I do have the sheet option and my cable release can be locked. This is great!!! I'll try it next time I get the setup out (in January I think, as I approximated it this time around - would have tried it last time but somehow I sadly did not get notification of your reply).
Do you think a frosted thin plexi or acetate sheet could do the same? I feel it would make a stiffer surface for the magnifier. Either way, very exited to try this!!! Thanks again
Oh, and if you do sell your close-up attachment/camera kit, put me on your contact list?
Do you think a frosted thin plexi or acetate sheet could do the same? I feel it would make a stiffer surface for the magnifier. Either way, very exited to try this!!! Thanks again
Oh, and if you do sell your close-up attachment/camera kit, put me on your contact list?
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^ I'm curious to see if any thing further has come of this event ? Peter