Crap

[MarkoKovacevic]

I lent my Zorki to a friend and I think he changed the shutter speeds without winding, and now my shutter does not open, and after i shoot it winds with no resistance, and only a small amount of resistance at the end.

Is there anything that can be done?

 

[Praxis Unitas]

Get a Leica.

Seriously, though, you should put a title on your post that actually indicated your problem. Nobody's going to read this one entitled 'crap' unless they are bored like me.

Good luck!

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

How bold do you feel about repairing it?

There's a fellow by the name of Rick Oleson who has a ton of information about these cameras.

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-101.html

If a Leica is a little too rich for your blood Zorki's and Fed's can be had cheap. They pop up every once in a while in the classifieds. Plus there's no mention of your lens being ruined, you can just buy the body alone and reuse your old lens.

If your friend did break it, get him to spring for your new camera.

 

[ChrisN]

I had this problem once. See this thread: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5442&highlight=mir Unfortunately all the old photos referred to have been deleted by the site owner, but the text might be useful.

 

[wolves3012]

Are you sure he hasn't just left on rewind, after taking out a film? The symptoms you give are consistent with that - which model Zorki is it?

 

[MarkoKovacevic]

Its not on rewind mode. How reliable are Zorkis from Fekda?

 

[Ronald_H]

Get a Leica.

Seriously, though, you should put a title on your post that actually indicated your problem. Nobody's going to read this one entitled 'crap' unless they are bored like me.

Good luck!

I got a Leica. Still, I sent away my FED and Zorki (total cost to me 30 euros) back to mother Russia for some TLC. That will cost me more than they are worth but still not much. Why? It's better than to throw tham away! Besides, for situations I don't necessarely want to bring a Leica or Nikon, a good Russki will do fine.

 

[rxmd]

What Zorki model?

 

[MarkoKovacevic]

Zorki 4 with jupiter 8

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

Its not on rewind mode. How reliable are Zorkis from Fekda?

I've got a Fed2 and its been extremely reliable. Yuri's great to deal with.

 

[Gumby]

Seriously, though, you should put a title on your post that actually indicated your problem. Nobody's going to read this one entitled 'crap' unless they are bored like me.

Quite correct... I never read this thread!

But seriously, having had that experience once is why I stopped loaning camera equipment to friends.

 

[MarkoKovacevic]

Quite correct... I never read this thread!

But seriously, having had that experience once is why I stopped loaning camera equipment to friends.

Yeah, a complicated camera like a Zorki shouldn't be lent out, but a pro Nikon can because there is less things to break.

 

[SimonK]

Yeah, a complicated camera like a Zorki shouldn't be lent out, but a pro Nikon can because there is less things to break.

Or perhaps Nikon know that most so-called pro's are idiots - so make their cameras more idiot-proof?

 

[russianRF]

Or perhaps Nikon know that most so-called pro's are idiots - so make their cameras more idiot-proof?

Can I get an OHSNAP up in here?!

 

[Gumby]

Or perhaps Nikon know that most so-called pro's are idiots - so make their cameras more idiot-proof?

Sounds like a little jealousy there, monseiur... or insecurity. 😱

 

[kevin m]

Au contraire. I think "crap" is the best thread title I've seen here in quite awhile. 🙂

 

[MarkoKovacevic]

Or perhaps Nikon know that most so-called pro's are idiots - so make their cameras more idiot-proof?

lol! I'm just saying on Nikons you don't have to remember "if I do this it will total the camera"

 

[mh2000]

I tried buying a FED from Yuri once, but in the end he told my that his repair people could not guarantee good near and far focusing... I decided that *I* needed both in a camera so I returned it and bought a Leica from KEH. Yuri did take the return with no problem so I'm not saying avoid him, just don't expect miracles... you are still in the realm of hit and miss FSU cameras when you buy from him... only you know you won't get screwed in the end.

I've got a Fed2 and its been extremely reliable. Yuri's great to deal with.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

I tried buying a FED from Yuri once, but in the end he told my that his repair people could not guarantee good near and far focusing... I decided that *I* needed both in a camera so I returned it and bought a Leica from KEH. Yuri did take the return with no problem so I'm not saying avoid him, just don't expect miracles... you are still in the realm of hit and miss FSU cameras when you buy from him... only you know you won't get screwed in the end.

FSU cameras are hit or miss when you decide to purchase one. Expecting miracles out of a camera seems like a lot to ask, I only require that it works under the specifications it was built to. Which in my experience has so far. I've also bought two other FSU lens, both were a gamble and both work just fine. The build of the lens might not stack up to some cameras but they work.

FSU cameras are cheap enough that to me if the first one doesn't work, try again.

 

[Industar62]

How to repair...

How to repair...

Don't worry, this is a very simple repair (all other factors being equal) and entirely suitable for someone with no previous experience (which may or may not be you). The problem is what Maizenberg suggests old-timer camera repairmen (are they ever women?) call the 'the exposure lever has jumped over' condition -- pretty descriptive as you'll see.

You'll need a jeweller's screwdriver small enough to undo the screws which hold the top cover. Loosen the set screws which hold the speed dial and remove it by pulling upwards. Loosen (but don't remove) the set screw which holds the sync dial. Remove the screws along the rear edge of the top cover and the one below the rangefinder window front middle. Loosen the set screw holding the shutter wind knob and unscrew the knob (anticlock). Remove the two screws below the knob. Lift away the top cover.

Beneath and to the left (with the camera facing you) is the shutter speed mechanism, partially obscured by the flash sync module. Remove this latter by undoing the three screws which hold it and lift it away.

Now look closely at the shutter speed stack. There's a brass gear wheel with a little pin on its underside. It can just be seen in the enclosed pic (not very clear and you don't have to go as far with the strip-down, I was replacing the shutter in this camera). What has happened is this pin is now on the 'wrong' side of the exposure speed lever below it.

To reverse the condition, reinstate the shutter wind knob -- screw it back into place and carefully tighten the set screw. Using your thumb nail or the screwdriver as a lever, gently lift the edge of the brass gear (or the triangular protuberance of the plate above it) while cocking the shutter using the knob in the usual way. This process should result in the exposure lever passing beneath the pin described above until it's on the other side of it.

Fire the shutter, wind on, fire again, all the while observing what happens when with the exposure lever and pin. The lever and pin should now be correctly sync'd. If all is well put the top cover back on by reversing the procedure outlined above (remembering to reinstate the exposure module).

Hope this helps.

BTW, Maizenberg suggests that later Zorki 4s have a more durable gear and plate which eliminates the condition but I've yet to see one.

Jerry