CV Nokton 1.5/50 vs Zeiss ZM Sonnar 1.5/50

CV Nokton 1.5/50 vs Zeiss ZM Sonnar 1.5/50

  • CV Nokton 1.5/50

    Votes: 152 41.3%

  • Zeiss ZM Sonnar 1.5/50

    Votes: 216 58.7%
  • Total voters
    368
Scanning negatives is often the fastest and easiest way to not see a real lens' rendition:


During this last week I ran new tests on Tri-X 400 and Rodinal, after several impressive posts here and there talking about the ability of that “new” film to be pushed to 12000 or 25000 ISO (!) with stand developing...


I developed lots of strips of the same bracketed shot in daylight (shadow) and tungsten, from 30 minutes to 4 hours, with stand and semi-stand agitation of 5, 15, 30 or 60 minutes. I printed results (enlarger) and no surprise at all: for natural available light the limit is below 1600 and for tungsten below 3200, handheld metering... And that, losing everything in the shadows...


Gross underexposures showed a certain image on negatives, and any scanner and photoshop can get some info there and make “another” image... I did contact some of the photographers posting those ISOs, and those who answered me, told me they scanned and did not enlarge...



Now:


A few weeks ago testing my 90 Summicron for focus and bokeh, I scanned results and printed them from files... After hours -only- of looking at them, I realized they weren't giving me the information I was looking for: with the slightest touch of contrast (up) the white areas surrounding delicate blur zones, “eat” the beginning of blurred contours, and the image becomes another one.


Scanning is another world: it doesn't give us the optic world we got in our negatives, and it's far from showing us our lenses' worlds...


Regards,


Juan
 
Juan Valdenebro said:
Scanning negatives is often the fastest and easiest way to not see a real lens' rendition:
Click to expand...

Amazing how you manage to highjack threads to promote your idea of photography... :angel:


During this last week I ran new tests on Tri-X 400 and Rodinal, after several impressive posts here and there talking about the ability of that “new” film to be pushed to 12000 or 25000 ISO (!) with stand developing...


I developed lots of strips of the same bracketed shot in daylight (shadow) and tungsten, from 30 minutes to 4 hours, with stand and semi-stand agitation of 5, 15, 30 or 60 minutes. I printed results (enlarger) and no surprise at all: for natural available light the limit is below 1600 and for tungsten below 3200, handheld metering... And that, losing everything in the shadows...
Click to expand...

You should try digital then... :angel:


Oh, back to topic:
I love both my Nokton and the J-3 - no experience with the Sonnar, though. 🙂
 
I did have the C sonnar for a Brief period when I had the M8...
Focus shift for me was a problem and I gave it up & the M8
I do net regret selling my M8 / FILM Rules...😀 😛 😎
but wish I had kept the Sonnar... it is so Lush & Beautiful Blks

At present I have the Nokton 1.5 ...it renders soooo Differently
to my retro Leica lenses
The Nokton a more 'Cinematic' Modern Quality which is Quite LOVELY
Blks Pop and the DOF does have a soft feel & a creaminess

They are both GREAT lenses....50's are my FAVORITE length
You can't have enough Fifties

Best - H 🙂
 
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nokton ....
4312695968_8ed5cb3aa0_b.jpg
 
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I find Nokton 1.5 quite interesting. It's bokeh can be quite creamy given the correct lighting situation. I'm liking mine so far very much. And yes, it clearly renders a "modern" looking image.

bambifrases.jpg
 
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Another vote for the Nokton. I admit I have not tried a Ziess Sonnar but I do have an old ClA'd Jupiter 3 which has similar ,though lower quality, heritage.

I have only just got hold of my Nokton lens but I found it a delight to use despite its large size. Here's some shots taken last weekend in the dark. I like the sharper look compared to my old J3 and the bokeh looks very pleasing.

candyfloss_305.jpg


bonfire_burgers06.jpg


Cheers

Chris
 
the nokton certainly seems nice, but the sonnar can sometimes do magic..

4059957173_28d43a66b5_o.jpg


but focus shift is real and my lens is currently at zeiss to correct focusing at 1.5
 
Purchased a Zeiss Ikon with a Sonnar 50/1.5 several months ago. Been using the Zeiss Ikon with an other lens and haven't shot the Sonnar until now... the photos below are the first photos with the Sonnar. As I pulled the wet film out of the reel, I thought I heard an Eddie Money song... I think I'm in Love.




U11272I1260739249.SEQ.0.jpg


U11272I1260739247.SEQ.0.jpg


Scan-091208-0036.jpg
 
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Perhaps it's a silly question but as far as I know the Nokton does not have the M-Mount. So you need an adapter. What about focussing? Is focussing with the adapter possible? Must be because otherwise there couldn't be so many perfect photos here.
Just asking this question because I have an old CV 25mm and with the M-adapter there is no focussing possible.
 
Those boots ...

Those boots ...

Helen!
I always seem to like your photos a lot, but this last one is very special!

My Nokton just came back from a fix (loose lens element) and CLA at Will van Manens. So; now the grand lady can look forward to somethin recognizable!😀

le
 
bidnez said:
Helen!
I always seem to like your photos a lot, but this last one is very special!
My Nokton just came back from a fix (loose lens element) and CLA at Will van Manens. So; now the grand lady can look forward to somethin recognizable!😀 le
Click to expand...

Cooool....Thank You
can't Wait to see what Your Nokton's up to....🙂
 
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helenhill said:
Cooool....Thank You
can't Wait to see what Your Nokton's up to....🙂

Actually I was thinking of a certain chrome M4 (of the female persuasion) who´s bound to recognize a 50 Nokton by the looks of it, if I´ve got this right.😀

Great image again, btw 🙂
le
Click to expand...
 
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I've been planning on getting the Nokton for a while but was wondering if anyone has any focus problems with the EBL of the Bessa R3 at 1.5? I can use it with my M2 but I love having TTL when shooting inside.
 
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