Daylight film in tungsten light

[blazejs]

Hello

I have some issue with setting ISO for daylight film while shooting in tungsten light. Box speed seems to be too less as I get underexposed exposures. In technical sheets I have found I should overexpose (what is logical) but this is explained as use of compensation filter that takes some light. Let's say I have ISO 800 film, what ISO should I set to get correct exposures?
TIA!

Greetings
Blazej

 

[bmattock]

ISO 800. However, your colors may be wonky. Perhaps you are interpreting that as 'underexposed' or your metering is off.

 

[blazejs]

Thank you! Well, it may be possible that light meter was cheating me. It's FSU Sverdlovsk-4. I'll try with another camera, just got Bessa finally.

 

[Al Kaplan]

Without going into a long involved explanation about color temperature in degrees Kelvin, the fact that color neg films aren't really designed for tungsten, etc. (and you didn't say what KIND of film you were shooting) you could start out by setting your meter to ISO 400, assuming you're not shooting slide film.

Normal average tungsten room lighting is warmer (more red) than the common correction filters. 80 A corrects for 3400K "movie lights", 80 B corrects for 3200K "studio lights", and 80 C corrects for clear flash bulbs at about 3800K. The first two will cost you about two stops, the 80C only one stop.

A lot of the problem with color neg films is who is operating the printer at the lab. They CAN adjust it enough for the color, but can't compensate for under exposure. At your local Walgreens there's at best a CHANCE that you'll get somebody who knows what to do, but a bigger chance that they won't have a clue.

Color negative films for some reason are finer grain when overexposed a bit, and they can stand two stops of overexposure with no problem, but underexpose them by more than about half a stop and you're screwed. Kodak and Fuji should really be saying that film is ISO 400.

 

[blazejs]

Thank you guys! I have experienced that on both color and bw films. I know that colors will be with yellow/red dominant but this feature I like. I wanted to make some evening/night shots with available light.
It's also possible that my lightmeter was cheated by some stronger light source. I should predict that anyway..

 

[Sparrow]

No point filtering in mixed light like that, I just go for f2 and the slowest speed I can hold with that lens at the time, and hope for the best. One can be pretty confidant overexposure will not be a problem.

I would only bother with a meter if I had a tripod and there was no movement in the shot, probably an incident or reflected reading.