mgilbuena
San Francisco Bay Area
I've scoured the forums but could not locate this information. I am going for a high-contrast, low tonal range and large grain look for an upcoming series, so I ask:
What times and dilutions are you using to push Tri-X 400 to 1600 and 3200 with Dektol 1:3 or 1:10?
I have a jug of Dektol premixed at 1:3, but I can easily reduce the concentration to 1:10 by adding two parts water in the development tank.
In addition, has anyone used Dektol with Neopan Acros 100; 400 or Fomapan 100? What times / dilutions? Have you successfully been able to push these films as well?
Thanks.
What times and dilutions are you using to push Tri-X 400 to 1600 and 3200 with Dektol 1:3 or 1:10?
I have a jug of Dektol premixed at 1:3, but I can easily reduce the concentration to 1:10 by adding two parts water in the development tank.
In addition, has anyone used Dektol with Neopan Acros 100; 400 or Fomapan 100? What times / dilutions? Have you successfully been able to push these films as well?
Thanks.
newsgrunt
Well-known
I tried this years ago when looking for tight deadline processing choices and the times were pretty short but can't remember the dilution if any. Coulda have been straight but it mighta been around a minute or minute and a half for Tri X ? You may have to play around to find the right combo. Let us know how it goes, I'm very curious.
Nokton48
Veteran
One minute in straight Dektol with -constant- agitation. Film was Tri-X rated at EI 800. If I remember correctly, I read about this technique in one of Bill Pierce's "Nuts & Bolts" columns in Camera35 magazine. That was back in the 70s.
Worked great for down and dirty news film. Printed it wet in the enlarger.
Worked great for down and dirty news film. Printed it wet in the enlarger.
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mgilbuena
San Francisco Bay Area
So far I've been successful in pushing Tri-X to EI800 and developing in Dektol 1:10 for 7 minutes, inversions every 1 minute.
Shot with Nikon FM2N / 50 f1.8 / Tri-X
I was inspired to take on a high contrast look after reading a recent thread on Ralph Gibson and his work; I also am a fan of Daido Moriyama and like his use of stark contrast and lack of grays.
From what I understand, Gibson uses Rodinol to achieve his look and underexposes by several stops. I'm not sure what technique Moriyama uses.
On my results, I think I may need to push another stop into 1600 and increase development perhaps to 9 minutes.
Shot with Nikon FM2N / 50 f1.8 / Tri-X
I was inspired to take on a high contrast look after reading a recent thread on Ralph Gibson and his work; I also am a fan of Daido Moriyama and like his use of stark contrast and lack of grays.
From what I understand, Gibson uses Rodinol to achieve his look and underexposes by several stops. I'm not sure what technique Moriyama uses.
On my results, I think I may need to push another stop into 1600 and increase development perhaps to 9 minutes.
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Tom A
RFF Sponsor
With Dektol you can also do "hot" developing. Crank up the temperature to 25+ degrees.
Long time ago I used to use if for "true Grit" stuff with Kodak High Speed black/white - rated at 2500-3200 iso.
Tried it with TriX - 25-27 degrees. Dektol 1:9 or 1:10 (cant remember now) and probably in the 10 minute range. Golfball sized grain and contrasty.
Experiment first and see what works. I like the 1 min in straight Dektol idea. Should try that.
Long time ago I used to use if for "true Grit" stuff with Kodak High Speed black/white - rated at 2500-3200 iso.
Tried it with TriX - 25-27 degrees. Dektol 1:9 or 1:10 (cant remember now) and probably in the 10 minute range. Golfball sized grain and contrasty.
Experiment first and see what works. I like the 1 min in straight Dektol idea. Should try that.