Delta 3200@6400, any idea?

I guess this roll is wasted. I may just send it to a lab and accept what I will get. (They can inspect the negative during the development so I guess I will get extremely contrasty images.) Or should I still try to develop it in a tank?

I would definitely develop it myself.

Delta 3200 @ 6400:
TMax Dev 1+4 11 minutes 20C
(from the Massive Dev Chart. Really strange: the numbers are the same as the TMax P3200 numbers, except temperature.)

You could just look at the data sheet to see what Ilford recommends.

It will increase contrast, decrease range, etc. It will not be too bad. Remember, this film is designed to be pushed

Thanks again everyone (specially Juan) for the education. I start to realize the importance of knowing the real ISO speed of a film. I'm reading a book of Philippe Bachelier which shows the difference between overexposure + underdevelopment and underexposure + overdevelopment. The difference in contrast is drastic.

Absolutely true. If you have the spare light, pulling film is usually useful. Sometimes, as I assume was the case here, you do not have the light.

Once more question: many tend to think it's always better to have the lowest contrast as it can be added later in software while lost details due to high contrast are not recoverable. But when it's to wet printing, it's not the case, because extremely "soft" (low contrast) negatives would require extremely high contrast papers to be printed correctly, am I right?

More or less, although with variable contrast paper you can keep only one paper on the shelf. It also has more of a contrast range than most companies produce in graded papers. Not much more, but more.
 
Hi David,

I'll look for the data sheet. And I'll ask a friend for help if I'm going to develop it at home. After all, I haven't developed any roll yet all by myself.

The lab I use has three developers. Xtol is their default developer, then Microdol X and another Kodak developer which I forgot. Every time I ask specifically the technician to use Microdol X. I have developed many rolls of film there, most of which are concert photos, shot with Neopan 1600 or Delta 3200 at 800, 1600 or 3200. I have noticed that the highlights are somehow better preserved with Microdol X. The images also have a sweet softness. However Xtol seems to be able to produce images with larger middle gray area. I'm saying it with my limited scan skill, absence of wet printing experience and knowledge of other developers.

Most labs I have contacted in Paris have this inspection method for B&W development, none for color. And I was actually thinking of sending it to a better lab (the most expansive one in Paris I think) which has Microphen.

I should have started developing my own films quite a while ago. The only reason I delay it every time is that I don't like taking test photos, and as such, every roll is important as they are my memories. I should better start soon before the expenses catch up the price of a Summicron. And I can never consider myself a true photographer without the ability to develop my own films.
 
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Hi Ulrich,

Get the film developed. Your M6 places caucasian skins where they should be when set at 1200 with that film, so you are 2 stops below a normal exposure, so to say it in a zone way, with a normal development skins would print in zone IV... If you overdevelop, you will gain contrast, and parts of the skin will go to zone V or even VI... So you'll get your portraits, and maybe the high contrast can be great for some of them... Losing detail in the shadows can be fine a lot of times. You need a wild development, and be prepared for contrast and a nice grain. I adore big grain: it can be very artistic and relaxed for portraits, especially when there's enough contrast to give the shot an unusual look...

I think you'll be surprised, and maybe apart from great scans you can make great wet prints! Now just let's think of how long the development should be and in which developer... They say it's DDX, but let's wait for some members who are pushing Delta3200...

Your case is not a problem at all: great camera, great film, and great contrast and grain: I bet you got great shots there!

Cheers,

Juan
 
Some people prefer Microphen and some other people Ilfotec DD-X... I wouldn't care too much about which one, but about making sure it's a wild push really...

I'd go for Microphen (pure), 15 minutes at 20ºC, or DDX (1+4), 20 minutes at 20ºC. First minute of constant inversions, and then five inversions every minute. I bet you'll get very nice images...

Cheers,

Juan
 
The only irrelevance here is your post. We are giving help to the OP member who is deciding in which way to develop a roll of 1200 shot at 6400. We are talking about how different ways of metering are the only factor deciding how much light reaches the film, because he must know that before developing. You are the only one wasting space here without going to the point at all...

Your post was irrelevant to him and his need, not to mention to some other members too.

Cheers,

Juan

Excuse me? You are giving help to someone asking how to develop an already shot roll of film by talking about how one should never under-expose? Respectfully, bite me.
 
Hi David,

I'll look for the data sheet. And I'll ask a friend for help if I'm going to develop it at home. After all, I haven't developed any roll yet all by myself.

The lab I use has three developers. Xtol is their default developer, then Microdol X and another Kodak developer which I forgot. Every time I ask specifically the technician to use Microdol X. I have developed many rolls of film there, most of which are concert photos, shot with Neopan 1600 or Delta 3200 at 800, 1600 or 3200. I have noticed that the highlights are somehow better preserved with Microdol X. The images also have a sweet softness. However Xtol seems to be able to produce images with larger middle gray area. I'm saying it with my limited scan skill, absence of wet printing experience and knowledge of other developers.

Microdol-X is a fantastic developer for reducing grain. I used to use it for portraits, but I switched to larger format film for that. One thing it does, though, is dissolve the grain and reduce the acutance (this creates a softer image). It is not known for pushing properties.

I would ask if they can push it in Xtol. (it looks like 10 minutes, by the way). I would also ask what they recommend. It is certainly possible to get good results, with minimal compression (contrast increase) at EI6400.

Most labs I have contacted in Paris have this inspection method for B&W development, none for color. And I was actually thinking of sending it to a better lab (the most expansive one in Paris I think) which has Microphen.

This is somewhat surprising. One thing to remember about this method: film is sensitive to the light that is being used for inspection. The color of the light is chosen because of the sensitivity of the eye, not because of the sensitivity of the film.

As far as I know, you cannot do this with color processing.

I should have started developing my own films quite a while ago. The only reason I delay it every time is that I don't like taking test photos, and as such, every roll is important as they are my memories. I should better start soon before the expenses catch up the price of a Summicron. And I can never consider myself a true photographer without the ability to develop my own films.

You can save an enormous amount of time (delay) and money if you develop your own film. Also, you don't worry about it once you get the hang of it. Also, it is fun. You may find that you shoot more when the cost goes down to about $2-4 / roll, including the price of the film. (It costs very little, maybe $0.50, to develop a roll of film myself. Plus my time, of course).

One thing (and I wish I had known this when I started): One shot developing is the way to go for home use. You always get consistent results. Also, liquids mix easier than solids.
 
So I got the roll developed about a week ago in a professional lab. (I still needed a bottle-opener and some patience to do it at home). I asked the technician to use the Microphen and to develop it without surveillance (strictly at ISO6400). And the results are ok.

A few images:

1.
1.jpg


2.
2.jpg


3.
3.jpg



The face of the girl on the first image is very clean. It was over exposed a little which I pulled back later in software. The other two images weren't modified after being scanned (Canon 8800F). The interesting thing is the second image is more grainy than the third one. A few images from a party with harsh lighting didn't go well. (For example a guy's face was underexposed and his hair was overexposed to a unrecoverable degree.)

I'll be careful with the speed of 6400 but it won't be the last time I use it. I also wonder if a less contrasty lens would help a little.

Best Regards
 
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