Developed for 1st time some questions.

[scottyb70]

I posted a prevoius question about if I should use old chemicals with B&W film. I used old Tmax developer, the new kodak stop bath then the old Kodak Fixer.

I used an old roll of 116 that I found in an old kodak box camera. I couldn't wrap the film on the 120 spool so I just let it ravel on the post of a Omega Film developer. Didn't work. I just used this film because it was my first time. It ended up sticking together. I saw a couple parts that showed some images.

I have a couple of questions.

1. The omega mixer has a spinable post in the center I used this a couple of times spinning it instead of inverting. I developed the film for 7 mins at 72 f and agitated for 5 seconds every 30 secs. I either spun the shaft or inverted about 3-4 times during the 5 secs.

Can I just use the spinner or would it be better to invert the tank?

2. I then put in the stop bath at about 72 F, I know it was supposed to be between 65-70 but I was impatient. I did continuous inversions for 30 seconds. Is this right? I read somewhere that it should be done for 1 minute but on the bottle is says 30 seconds.

3. I then put in the Kodak Fixer. Agitated the first 5 sec and then every 30 seconds for 5 seconds for a total of 7 mins. Is this the right way to do it?

4. I took the film out of the canister and I put in in a solution of photoflo. I didn't bother putting it back into the canister because it was already shot.

When I do my next roll of film (120) should I keep the film on the reel and then put the photoflo in the canister and agitate?

• Should I rinse the canister and film with water one time and then add the photoflo?
• Does the water need to be a certain temperature for the rinse?
• Does the photoflo need to be a certain temperature?
• Is the dilution rate of photoflo 1oz photoflo = 200 oz water?
• When I use the photoflo how long do I agitate.
• After using photoflo do I rinse again?

Thanks for the help.

 

[bmattock]

I posted a prevoius question about if I should use old chemicals with B&W film. I used old Tmax developer, the new kodak stop bath then the old Kodak Fixer.

I think you left out the rinse. More on that later.

I used an old roll of 116 that I found in an old kodak box camera. I couldn't wrap the film on the 120 spool so I just let it ravel on the post of a Omega Film developer. Didn't work. I just used this film because it was my first time. It ended up sticking together. I saw a couple parts that showed some images.

Yeah, that happens if they film is not on the reel.

I have a couple of questions.

1. The omega mixer has a spinable post in the center I used this a couple of times spinning it instead of inverting. I developed the film for 7 mins at 72 f and agitated for 5 seconds every 30 secs. I either spun the shaft or inverted about 3-4 times during the 5 secs.

Can I just use the spinner or would it be better to invert the tank?

Opinions vary. The important thing is this - whether by agitation (using hand or the twisty thing) or inversion, the point is to get fresh developer into contact with the emulsion from time to time. The developer that is in contact with the film becomes exhuasted, and you need to bring in fresh troops. How you do this is less important than a) that you do it and b) that you are consistant - in other words, find what works for you, then do THAT the same way every time.

I would say the twisty thing is fine. Others might disagree.

2. I then put in the stop bath at about 72 F, I know it was supposed to be between 65-70 but I was impatient. I did continuous inversions for 30 seconds. Is this right? I read somewhere that it should be done for 1 minute but on the bottle is says 30 seconds.

Follow the bottle. The temp is close - probably close enough for stop bath. Temp is more critical for some developers. Wide fluctuations in temps can cause the emulsion to crinkle up like your fingers when you've been doing dishes for awhile. Called 'reticulation'. Not good.

3. I then put in the Kodak Fixer. Agitated the first 5 sec and then every 30 seconds for 5 seconds for a total of 7 mins. Is this the right way to do it?

That's a way to do it. No right way, as long as you fix long enough to clear the film. If the film is milky or foggy, you didn't fix it long enough or the fixer is shot or not strong enough.

4. I took the film out of the canister and I put in in a solution of photoflo. I didn't bother putting it back into the canister because it was already shot.

Rinse for the specified period before Photo flo.

When I do my next roll of film (120) should I keep the film on the reel and then put the photoflo in the canister and agitate?

You can. I do everything in the tank. Dev, (I don't use stop bath), fix, rinse, photo-flo.

[*]Should I rinse the canister and film with water one time and then add the photoflo?

No, for a long time. How long depends on the instructions with the dev and stop bath. I don't use stop bath, I typically rinse for 18 to 20 minutes.

[*]Does the water need to be a certain temperature for the rinse?

Try and keep it close to the other temps, to avoid reticulation.

[*]Does the photoflo need to be a certain temperature?

See above.

[*]Is the dilution rate of photoflo 1oz photoflo = 200 oz water?

Dunno. I use two drops in 1000 ml of water. Not much, in other words. Stuff should last years, even a small bottle.

[*]When I use the photoflo how long do I agitate.

Don't.

[*]After using photoflo do I rinse again?

No, then you lose the benefits of photo flo. It changes the surface tension of the water in the tank. If you rinse again, it goes back to being just water.

Thanks for the help.

You're welcome.

 

[MikeL]

Can I just use the spinner or would it be better to invert the tank?

Spinning can maintain a steeper gradient near the film and can lead to faster development times. Faster development times increase the importance of consistent temperature and procedure (timing, filling, etc.). Development times below 6 minutes make me nervous.

 

[bmattock]

Spinning can maintain a steeper gradient near the film and can lead to faster development times. Faster development times increase the importance of consistent temperature and procedure (timing, filling, etc.). Development times below 6 minutes make me nervous.

I don't know about the 'steeper gradient near the film' part, but I agree with the rest. I also don't like dev times of less than 6 minutes. I aim for 10 or so, unless doing Diafine. Good job bringing out the point about faster development.

 

[scottyb70]

Rinse for the specified period before Photo flo

Thanks bmattok. Just to make sure I am right rinsing before photo flow should be about 18-20 minutes like you stated. I would let the film sit in the tank with the water, no agitation. There is no instructions on the stop bath or fixer regarding rinsing.

 

[scottyb70]

Just to note the next film I am going to be developing will be a fresh roll of TmaX 400 professional with HC110, kodak stop bath, kodax fixer and photoflo all fresh chemicals. I do have old tmax developer but I might try that with another test roll or my roll of ilford 3200.

 

[bmattock]

Thanks bmattok. Just to make sure I am right rinsing before photo flow should be about 18-20 minutes like you stated. I would let the film sit in the tank with the water, no agitation. There is no instructions on the stop bath or fixer regarding rinsing.

Not quite. The water should be running. This is why some people prefer to use hypo clear after fixing. It removes the fixer faster and you can rinse for less time. I don't use hypo clear or stop bath, but that's a personal thing, some use one, some use both, some use none. Some developers tell you to use stop bath, some say don't, and some don't care. So read the directions for the developer you use.

Here is my workflow:

1) Developer with agitation / inversion.
2) Pour out developer (or reuse if it is not one-shot diluted).
3) Rinse once. Or use stop bath, if you're going to do so.
4) Pour out water or stop bath, whichever.
5) Fix with agitation /inversion.
6) Pour out fix (reuse until it's ruined). Use hypo clear if you're going to.
7) Rinse for 20 minutes in gently running water (I take the top off the tank and aim the sink spigot at it. Not hot water, it will take the emulsion right off. Try to get it the same temps as dev/fix/and whatever else you used. Less rinse time if you use hypo clear.
8) Photo flo for 60 seconds or so.
9) Squeegee with fingers (or don't, if you don't like to do that).
10) Hang up to dry.

That's it.
5) Pour out

 

[scottyb70]

Thanks for the work flow.

 

[bmattock]

I cut a piece of rubber hose that fixes on the tap (faucet ?) and the other end just goes into the spool centre.
The chemistry is lighter than water and this pushes the water up from the bottom.

It's a good idea. I just haven't had one available for use. Good tip.

 

[marke]

You can usually get something like that at a hardware store. They're made for shampooing your hair in the sink, and the usually have a small sprayer attachment at one end. Remove that piece so that you have the bare end to place into the spool center. The other end, which you push onto the faucet, has a flexible rubber cup that stretches over the faucet. I was using one of these hose assemblies that was part of my print washer until I realized I could get something similar form the hardware store. Using one of these will simplify the rinse process, in addition to giving the film a more complete rinse with less water.

 

[shadowfox]

No, then you lose the benefits of photo flo. It changes the surface tension of the water in the tank. If you rinse again, it goes back to being just water.

This is what I thought also (don't rinse after photo-flo), but if I didn't rinse, the bubbles formed and stayed with the film as I hang it to dry. Later they become white splotches on the neg. when scanned.

Am I missing something?

 

[bmattock]

This is what I thought also (don't rinse after photo-flo), but if I didn't rinse, the bubbles formed and stayed with the film as I hang it to dry. Later they become white splotches on the neg. when scanned.

Am I missing something?

Way too much photo flo, I am guessing. You only need such a very tiny amount, you'd think it was impossible that it could affect anything. I put two drops - just two drops - in 1000 ml water. That's one liter, BTW. If you're processing a couple rolls of film in a standard two-roll tank, that usually holds something between 500 and 750 ml tops.

 

[projectbluebird]

Are you agitating the photo-flo? That might account for the bubbles as well.

My standard technique with photo-flo is to fill the tank, and let stand for 30 seconds.

The nice thing I've found when I get splotches on my film, is that you can always wash it again!

 

[shadowfox]

Bill, that must be part of it, somehow I remember 10ml for my 300 tank, that's way too much now that you've mention it.

projectbluebird, I do not agitate the photo-flo, and you're right that I can wipe off those splotches with wet cloth afterwards, but it's just such a hassle because I can't see it before I already spent the time to scan it.