Development Time And Developer For HP5+ At 1600ASA?

[jyl]

Can anyone give me a suggested development time for HP5+ rated at 1600ASA using D76 1:1?

From the Massive Dev Chart I see 16.5 minutes if rated at 800ASA. Perhaps increase time another 25%, to 20.5 minutes?

The Massive Dev Chart recommends 14 minutes if rated at 1600ASA using stock D76. I don't have any stock D76, unfortunately.

I could go get some stock D76, if 1:1 just can't be used. Or I could go get some other developer, if that's what people recommend.

(I realize HP5+ isn't the best choice for such pushing, but it was all I had available.)

 

[Roger Hicks]

True ISO of HP5 Plus in Ilford DD-X or Paterson FX-50 is around 650-800, so EI 1600 is not a heavy push: Ilford recommends 10 minutes at standard dilution so I'd go for 11 or even 12.

I'd suggest that HP5+ IS the best choice for such a push, unless you had Delta 3200 or TMZ or Neopan 1600 available, in that order. And I've used all of them...

Cheers,

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com -- and take a look at the Photo School)

 

[jyl]

Well, I messed something up. Let me explain what I did and maybe someone can see where I went wrong.

I went by my local camera shop and picked up a small bottle of HC110 concentrate (Roger, I looked for the ones you recommended but this was the only developer they had, besides D76 and Rodinal). I didn't want to mix up a whole 1/2 gal of stock (since this might be the only roll I develop in HC110). So I did the math and concluded that 10 oz of working solution of dilution B equals 0.31 oz of concentrate + 9.69 oz of water, as follows:

stock = 1 part concentrate + 3 parts water
dilution B = 1 part stock + 7 parts water
so
10 oz dilution B
= 1.25 oz stock + 8.75 oz water
= (0.31 oz concentrate + 0.94 oz. water) + 8.75 oz water
= 0.31oz concentrate + 9.69 oz water

Which I converted to ml as 9.2 ml concentrate + 286 ml water. I used a syringe and measuring cup to mix 10 oz of dilution B. Then I looked up the developing time at the Massive Dev Chart (11 minutes). The developer temperature was 69F, but I suspected I might have slightly underexposed the pics, so I stuck with 11 minutes. I developed the film using the procedure I use for D76 and Rodinal: soak, developer (agitate 30 sec then 5 sec every 30 sec), stop, fix, wash, permawash, wash, PhotoFlo. This was in a Patterson two-reel tank, with the loaded reel on the bottom and an empty reel on top.

Seems okay? Well, the negatives are almost clear. I can see just a hint of the images. It seems like I've grossly underdeveloped the negatives.

I'm pretty sure I didn't massively underexpose the pics, because I was shooting in a medium-lit pub using 1/60 at f1.4 to f2.8 while rating the film at 1600ASA. Also there were a couple of outdoor shots at 1/250 f5.6 or something like that. I also am pretty sure the camera didn't malfunction, because I put a roll through it last week and all the combinations of shutter/aperture worked fine.

I wonder if I didn't mix the dilution B thoroughly enough. But wouldn't all that agitation complete the mixing, so that at least some parts of the negative would be developed?

This is no big deal - just pics of some guys and gals at beers - but I'd like to know what I did wrong. Any ideas?

 

[Stephanie Brim]

If you have the D76 1:1, I would suggest, by calculating, that you'd want to go about 15 minutes, give or take. Not sure, though. If you have some throwaway rolls of HP5 you could try it. Then again, that really depends on what temperature you have the developer at.

 

[jyl]

Stephaine, how do you do that calculation>

As you can tell, I am a developing newbie. I've been developing my B&W for about a year, but not doing anything particularly adventuresome - just got into a groove with D76 for Tri-X/HP5+ and Rodinal for FP4+.

 

[Roman]

jyl,
I'm wondering: you don't have stock D76, but do have D76 1+1? How come? It is not a good idea to completely dilute your D76 zo 1+1 when mixing it, as it will go bad much faster - yous hould mix it to stock dilution recommended on the package, and only dilute it with water to 1+1 right before using it!
Also, for pushing films, for every stop you want o push (1 stop from 400 to 800, 1 stop from 800 to 1600 - so you are doing a 2 stop push), you'll have to multiply the dev. time by about 1.3 to 1.5 - so for your 2 stop push that would be
orig time for HP5+ at 400 in D76 1+1 x 1.4 x 1.4 = your time for HP5+ at 1600 in D76 1+1.
Also if going from stock to 1+1 dilution, you can usually multiply the times by abou 1.3 to 1.5 to get your 'new times'.
All of this would suggest something in the 20 to 25 minute range for HP5+ at 1600 in D76 1+1.

BTW, my favorite developer for pushing films is Calbe A49 1+1 - very easy to use, gives relatively fine grain, controls contrast well, and is not that expensive - you cannot get it from your local store, though, in the US you can get it from http://www.jandcphotography.com/

Roman

 

[jyl]

Roman, you're absolutely right. I've been lazy, mixing everything up in advance.

 

[Roger Hicks]

In that case, your D76 may have oxidized to uselessness. That's WHY they tell you to make stock. It's much longer lived.

Cheers,

Roger

 

[Doug]

JYL, your HC110 dilution and development time looks correct according to the very-useful Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page at
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

I believe HC110 quickly mixes thoroughly with water, so there shouldn't be any concentrated globs of it floating in a weak solution. A study of the HC110 resource page above might bring hints or insight. And you might try a test roll of HP5 shot at different speed ratings duplicated at the beginning and end of the roll, then snip the roll in half for two different developing treatments.

 

[titrisol]

Sounds about right, but in fact all you need is a syringe and you can mix straight from bottle to working developer

Well, I messed something up. Let me explain what I did and maybe someone can see where I went wrong.

I went by my local camera shop and picked up a small bottle of HC110 concentrate (Roger, I looked for the ones you recommended but this was the only developer they had, besides D76 and Rodinal). I didn't want to mix up a whole 1/2 gal of stock (since this might be the only roll I develop in HC110). So I did the math and concluded that 10 oz of working solution of dilution B equals 0.31 oz of concentrate + 9.69 oz of water, as follows:

stock = 1 part concentrate + 3 parts water
dilution B = 1 part stock + 7 parts water
so
10 oz dilution B
= 1.25 oz stock + 8.75 oz water
= (0.31 oz concentrate + 0.94 oz. water) + 8.75 oz water
= 0.31oz concentrate + 9.69 oz water

Which I converted to ml as 9.2 ml concentrate + 286 ml water. I used a syringe and measuring cup to mix 10 oz of dilution B. Then I looked up the developing time at the Massive Dev Chart (11 minutes). The developer temperature was 69F, but I suspected I might have slightly underexposed the pics, so I stuck with 11 minutes. I developed the film using the procedure I use for D76 and Rodinal: soak, developer (agitate 30 sec then 5 sec every 30 sec), stop, fix, wash, permawash, wash, PhotoFlo. This was in a Patterson two-reel tank, with the loaded reel on the bottom and an empty reel on top.

Seems okay? Well, the negatives are almost clear. I can see just a hint of the images. It seems like I've grossly underdeveloped the negatives.

I'm pretty sure I didn't massively underexpose the pics, because I was shooting in a medium-lit pub using 1/60 at f1.4 to f2.8 while rating the film at 1600ASA. Also there were a couple of outdoor shots at 1/250 f5.6 or something like that. I also am pretty sure the camera didn't malfunction, because I put a roll through it last week and all the combinations of shutter/aperture worked fine.

I wonder if I didn't mix the dilution B thoroughly enough. But wouldn't all that agitation complete the mixing, so that at least some parts of the negative would be developed?

This is no big deal - just pics of some guys and gals at beers - but I'd like to know what I did wrong. Any ideas?

 

[jyl]

Thanks, guys. Perhaps this is one of those occasions when what I think I did would have been right, but I didn't do what I think I did. Anyway, I will try using HC110 again, and hopefully will get it right this time.

 

[titrisol]

HC110 is not good for pushing HP5!
D76 would do a better job. I think the best would be Xtol, DDX, Acufine, F76+, etc.