What are you looking for? There is no digital replacement for a typical mechanical camera like the M6. I´d say keep shooting film and maybe get a small digi like a Ricoh GRD III if you want it "quick and dirty" digital.
TaoPhoto
Documentary Photographer
Here's another way to go that you might want to think about. Buy yourself a little DSLR (Oly E420 comes to mind, or maybe the Nikon D40 or 40x). These are pretty cheap now. Get one prime lens for it. For the Nikon, I'd get a 24 or 28 (thus being equivalent to a 36 or 42 on a film RF).
Now here's the important part of this idea. Set the kit up as a manual camera. Manual focus, manual aperture and shutter speed. Set the image quality to RAW. You might be surprised now how similar this set-up seems to a classic film camera. I do this with my Nikon D7000 and now feel its much closer to what I otherwise miss about my old Nikon F* film cameras.
The kit above won't cost you much and if you like this set-up, you can sell this and move up to a kit with a more up-to-date sensor.
Now this is a great idea. I just ordered a OM -> 4/3 adapter, which should allow me to use the Zuiko lenses from my beloved OM-1n on the Oly DSLR. Set the rest to manual, and you might be on to something. The form factor is still nowhere close to the M8/M9/RD-1, or even the OM1, but it's a start in the right direction. I'm not worried about an up-to-date sensor. If I need quality I'll go with film, which I shoot 80% of the time anyway. Thanks for the idea.
SteveM_NJ
Well-known
I second the motion,
R-D1(s) results have always been fine (for me),
manual vs. automatic - is there when you want.
You should be able to find one, at your price range,
try it,
if not happy, sell for what you paid since all the depreciation has already happened.
R-D1(s) results have always been fine (for me),
manual vs. automatic - is there when you want.
You should be able to find one, at your price range,
try it,
if not happy, sell for what you paid since all the depreciation has already happened.
Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
You're welcome!
Out to Lunch
Ventor
Another vote for the R-D1(s). Fantastic images. Affordable. The mint bodies are in Japan. I went through Dirk who also had the camera checked by Epson Japan before sending it to me: http://www.japanexposures.com/services/#equipment
pixelatedscraps
Well-known
No, you're not going to find exactly what you're looking for but you can come close with the EP-1/2, etc. I'm in the same boat as you, but I've accepted that I'll have to stop looking for an affordable digital rangefinder for at least the next 12 months. The only company I can see releasing a digital M body with true rangefinder controls, interchangeable lenses AND at an affordable price is either Cosina-Voigtlander or Fuji.
Fuji isn't going to want to cannibalize sales of the X100 in at least the first 12 months so that puts them out of the question. Cosina-Voigtlander...who knows...they surprised many with the Bessa R/L, etc, and I wouldn't put it past them to conjure up a CV-branded successor to the Epson RD-1.
I've looked at, read exhausting reviews, played with, borrowed and shot everything from a G1, GH1, EP-1, EPL-1, EP-2, X100...the whole affordable range..and I'm willing to put my wallet back in my pocket until I find something I really want. So far, there isn't one.
PatrickCheung
Well-known
I'm going to have to agree with others on the small DSLR body idea.
Most of the time I'm using the Nikon D7000, and it's served me well. I almost never need to access the menus to change settings (the only time I need to is when I want to trigger an off-camera flash with the pop up flash... or format the memory card) as the most vital settings can be accessed using buttons and dials on the body.
I found the D7000's features to be less accessible than the D200/300 cameras. If you want higher accessibility for a low price, an old D200 body is a cheap alternative. I've got one I might want to sell... PM me if you're interested!
Oh and, yes, the D7000 in quiet mode is REALLY quiet. I almost always have it on quiet mode. It requires a steadier grip, but it's a nice trade off.
If you're a low light person, the D7000 shoots some of the cleanest high ISO images I've ever seen. Being able to shoot at 6400 ISO (expandable to i think 32000ISO) gives you tons of low light opportunities. The noise isn't too bad, and is quite simple to clean up in post processing.
Man, I should become a Nikon spokesperson.
Most of the time I'm using the Nikon D7000, and it's served me well. I almost never need to access the menus to change settings (the only time I need to is when I want to trigger an off-camera flash with the pop up flash... or format the memory card) as the most vital settings can be accessed using buttons and dials on the body.
I found the D7000's features to be less accessible than the D200/300 cameras. If you want higher accessibility for a low price, an old D200 body is a cheap alternative. I've got one I might want to sell... PM me if you're interested!
Oh and, yes, the D7000 in quiet mode is REALLY quiet. I almost always have it on quiet mode. It requires a steadier grip, but it's a nice trade off.
If you're a low light person, the D7000 shoots some of the cleanest high ISO images I've ever seen. Being able to shoot at 6400 ISO (expandable to i think 32000ISO) gives you tons of low light opportunities. The noise isn't too bad, and is quite simple to clean up in post processing.
Man, I should become a Nikon spokesperson.
LKeithR
Improving daily--I think.
I'm surprised more people haven't suggested this option. I've been looking for something similar to what you're seeking and I've actually spent quite a bit of time looking at the GXR and its specs. The more I see the more I Like it and I've pretty much made up my mind to get one--probably with the 50mm module. The nice thing about the GXR is that I can start now and add the M mount module when it becomes available...
peterm1
Veteran
Seriously, I would suggest looking into a good "low mileage" Panasonic L1. I bought the camera specifically because much like you I wanted a digital camera that looked and acted something like a traditional rangefinder (although it is actually an SLR) without buying an M8/9.
This is the camera that Leica badge-engineered for their Digilux 3. I still have one and think its a cracker. (You could buy the Leica equivalent but be prepared to pay more. Besides I prefer the look of the black Panasonic over the too shiny silver Leica livery). The cameras were well built with Panasonic's usual skill and have an all metal chassis under their polycarbonate outer shell. As far as I know they are very reliable. They tend to be held onto by their owners who part with them only reluctantly. Ergonomically they are a little large in the hand - which I think is about their main downfall - together perhaps with their slightly dim finder which can be a disadvantage - but only if you wish to use manual focus legacy lenses without focus confirmation.
If you like not having to delve through menus and want something that has a "real camera" feel, it scores highly on these criteria.
It has a "proper" aperture ring on its lens barrel and a shutter speed dial on the top plate. Leave them both on "A" and the camera is in program mode. Adjust the lens ring and its aperture priority. Adjust the shutter speed and its shutter priority. Adjust both and its fully manual. And of course you can also turn off auto focus and shoot using manual focus if you wish (it will give you focus confirmation with chipped lenses.)
Many other commonly used functions (exposure comp, iso, shooting mode etc) are all accessible through buttons on the back of the camera so the only time you really have to navigate menus is for set up of the camera.
The stock lens is a Leica designed 14-50 zoom (f2.8) and it takes a wide variety of 4/3 (not m4/3) lenses such as the Leica 25mm Summilux f1.4 and a range of Olympus offerings. I recently tried an Olympus 35mm f3.5 macro lens on mine and found it to be really very good, although the lens is relatively inexpensive. It also takes a wide range of older SLR legacy lenses with 4/3 adapters although the viewfinder is not wonderful for manual focussing (although I believe you can now buy adapters with focus confirmation chips in them and I imagine that would help). An added advantage may be that if you have been using Olympus DSLRs then you may already have compatible lenses to use in addition to its very high quality Leica standard lens.
I have had mine now for about 3 years or more and still love it even though I have since managed to buy a second hand M8. For those days when my old eyes are not up to focusing manually it works a treat.
This is the camera that Leica badge-engineered for their Digilux 3. I still have one and think its a cracker. (You could buy the Leica equivalent but be prepared to pay more. Besides I prefer the look of the black Panasonic over the too shiny silver Leica livery). The cameras were well built with Panasonic's usual skill and have an all metal chassis under their polycarbonate outer shell. As far as I know they are very reliable. They tend to be held onto by their owners who part with them only reluctantly. Ergonomically they are a little large in the hand - which I think is about their main downfall - together perhaps with their slightly dim finder which can be a disadvantage - but only if you wish to use manual focus legacy lenses without focus confirmation.
If you like not having to delve through menus and want something that has a "real camera" feel, it scores highly on these criteria.
It has a "proper" aperture ring on its lens barrel and a shutter speed dial on the top plate. Leave them both on "A" and the camera is in program mode. Adjust the lens ring and its aperture priority. Adjust the shutter speed and its shutter priority. Adjust both and its fully manual. And of course you can also turn off auto focus and shoot using manual focus if you wish (it will give you focus confirmation with chipped lenses.)
Many other commonly used functions (exposure comp, iso, shooting mode etc) are all accessible through buttons on the back of the camera so the only time you really have to navigate menus is for set up of the camera.
The stock lens is a Leica designed 14-50 zoom (f2.8) and it takes a wide variety of 4/3 (not m4/3) lenses such as the Leica 25mm Summilux f1.4 and a range of Olympus offerings. I recently tried an Olympus 35mm f3.5 macro lens on mine and found it to be really very good, although the lens is relatively inexpensive. It also takes a wide range of older SLR legacy lenses with 4/3 adapters although the viewfinder is not wonderful for manual focussing (although I believe you can now buy adapters with focus confirmation chips in them and I imagine that would help). An added advantage may be that if you have been using Olympus DSLRs then you may already have compatible lenses to use in addition to its very high quality Leica standard lens.
I have had mine now for about 3 years or more and still love it even though I have since managed to buy a second hand M8. For those days when my old eyes are not up to focusing manually it works a treat.
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