DiMage 5400 Repair?

I've never tried DSLR scanning before--I have an old Nikon Coolscan V, but I don't use it all that much, as it's a bit time consuming for what you get out of it.

So I am thinking about the DSLR scanning method, as I have *loads* of old film I'd like to get into digital format.

My question for those of you who do DSLR scanning regards the light source. It seems like many of you are using light pads or light boxes as the source.

I have my own studio with pure white seamless paper backgrounds, and a really powerful strobe kit. I've thought I could probably just bounce light off that--and I can bounce enough off it to basically vaporise a light box--as that would give me a large, very bright, very white and evenly lit light source. It would allow me to use the camera's maximum sync speed, reducing camera shake (really, the flash duration would be considerably briefer than the shutter opening, so even less vibration), and I could have almost infinite depth of field, not that I'd need that much certainly. And I wouldn't have to fiddle with aligning the camera to the light box and all that--I could just put the film holder/diffuser on the end of my macro lens, just point it fairly randomly at the centre of the background, and fire away.

Am I correct in thinking this would be an easy, fast, efficient and sensible system for doing the scanning? Or is there some flaw in my plan that I have not considered?
 
Oh, and one other question: does anyone make the gear to scan medium format (and maaaaybe even large format) with a DSLR? I used to have an Epson V750 for that, but I don't have it anymore, unfortunately. And I'd *really* love to be able to scan my bigger format film that way.
 
I've never tried DSLR scanning before--I have an old Nikon Coolscan V, but I don't use it all that much, as it's a bit time consuming for what you get out of it.

So I am thinking about the DSLR scanning method, as I have *loads* of old film I'd like to get into digital format.

My question for those of you who do DSLR scanning regards the light source. It seems like many of you are using light pads or light boxes as the source.

I have my own studio with pure white seamless paper backgrounds, and a really powerful strobe kit. I've thought I could probably just bounce light off that--and I can bounce enough off it to basically vaporise a light box--as that would give me a large, very bright, very white and evenly lit light source. It would allow me to use the camera's maximum sync speed, reducing camera shake (really, the flash duration would be considerably briefer than the shutter opening, so even less vibration), and I could have almost infinite depth of field, not that I'd need that much certainly. And I wouldn't have to fiddle with aligning the camera to the light box and all that--I could just put the film holder/diffuser on the end of my macro lens, just point it fairly randomly at the centre of the background, and fire away.

Am I correct in thinking this would be an easy, fast, efficient and sensible system for doing the scanning? Or is there some flaw in my plan that I have not considered?

There are several dedicated threads to camera scanning but the short answer is: Good macro lens, a copy stand and a good light source. Restricting the amount of extraneous light is important because it will reflect off of the film and affect the final image. A dedicated camera scan set up is fast and efficient. Check out the threads, take a look at Negative Lab Pros' website for setups and you can see what others have working for them.
 
Yeah, I like scanners too, but they’re so slow.

Now...A7RII and macro lens, 47MP. The KEY is to shoot at around F8 for the sharpest results. Of course, a light pad won’t provide enough light...HOWEVER, if you can use a studio strobe with a modeling light to focus, you’ll be off to the races. Also...tether your camera, so you shoot from a computer and don’t touch the camera. You’re scanner can’t keep up.
 
Oh, and one other question: does anyone make the gear to scan medium format (and maaaaybe even large format) with a DSLR? I used to have an Epson V750 for that, but I don't have it anymore, unfortunately. And I'd *really* love to be able to scan my bigger format film that way.

I don;t know if anyone makes gear for this, I used a home-made box with a negative carrier from al old enlarger

There is a project to 3D print this as modular, you can find it in Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146065
 
I just checked a few files I scanned with Nikon latest and macro lens. I enlarged them to 20x30 on computer screen and they were perfectly sharp.

If you try this , do medium sharpening but increase radius to 2.0 to 2.5 pixels which I would never do with camera files.

I use a clear area for WB on the film. Invert in CS6 curves by going ul to lower right. Final tune WB by using levels individual channels RGB and setting black and white points individually for each channel.

BTW any color neg can get perfect WB using levels and individual channels. This is much better than eye method.
 
I just checked a few files I scanned with Nikon latest and macro lens. I enlarged them to 20x30 on computer screen and they were perfectly sharp.

If you try this , do medium sharpening but increase radius to 2.0 to 2.5 pixels which I would never do with camera files.

I use a clear area for WB on the film. Invert in CS6 curves by going ul to lower right. Final tune WB by using levels individual channels RGB and setting black and white points individually for each channel.

BTW any color neg can get perfect WB using levels and individual channels. This is much better than eye method.

digitizing with a decent dslr and macro lens really is pretty nice and fast - folks just need to try and compare. I sleeved all my old film shots recently so decided to scan a few to show folks here...

d800e + 105 micro + negative lab pro. literally 5 sec timer to shoot each frame and then 10 secs each of cropping + running negative lab pro in lightroom.

INZ_7137 by Ricky Cheong Photography, on Flickr

INZ_7144 by Ricky Cheong Photography, on Flickr

INZ_7134 by Ricky Cheong Photography, on Flickr
 
junk it and start digitizing with a digital camera, macro lens and light pad + negative lab pro. You'll save alot of time doing it this way and the image quality will be much higher.

Could you provide some examples to back your claims? Most DSLR scans I see online are truly mediocre, and an Elite 5400 easily - and I means easily - blows them all out of the water.
 
Could you provide some examples to back your claims? Most DSLR scans I see online are truly mediocre, and an Elite 5400 easily - and I means easily - blows them all out of the water.

I posted them above your post around 1.5-2 days ago... perhaps let's see some 5400 scans. IMO one also needs to consider the speed of both approaches as well. At the end of the day I'm not here to convince anyone which way to go but merely share my experience and point out I used to use a 5400 and I've moved onto digitizing with my d800e and all things considered fits me more. Happy scanning!😎

adding 1 more.

INZ_7165 by Ricky Cheong Photography, on Flickr
 
On that I'll agree - if speed and noise are a factor, then probably a DSLR is better.

If speed is not a factor, you want to take your time to only scan the best images in the roll, and importantly you don't want to buy an expensive DSLR and all the associated expensive paraphernalia, there are exactly 0 reasons to dump a film scanner and move to camera scanning - and sorry, your example above (though a lovely photo) readily proves it. You can get that type of quality even with a flatbed if you align the film correctly. Happy scanning!
 
On that I'll agree - if speed and noise are a factor, then probably a DSLR is better.

If speed is not a factor, you want to take your time to only scan the best images in the roll, and importantly you don't want to buy an expensive DSLR and all the associated expensive paraphernalia, there are exactly 0 reasons to dump a film scanner and move to camera scanning - and sorry, your example above (though a lovely photo) readily proves it. You can get that type of quality even with a flatbed if you align the film correctly. Happy scanning!

Totally gotta agree to disagree based on personal preference and priorities too! IMO if your film scanner is still working and in service then totally no need to consider anything else if you are happy with it but if it's malfunctioning or broken then maybe putting in funds now along with shipping may not be the best at the end of the day. Curious though, can someone share some scans from their 5400? Last time I used mine was years ago.
 
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