dave lackey
Veteran
Yeah, on second thought the F6 is a piece of crap. Stay away from it!
EOS shooter curious about the F100 and the F6
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DominikDUK
Well-known
It isn't really any better imo, also you should stay with what you know for all intents and purposes the Nikon AF and Canon Eos System are equals. The backwards compatibility is a bit of a myth as many pre ai and other lenses do not really work with later Nikon bodies or later lenses do not work with earlier bodies. I am a Nikon shooter btw.
Huss
Veteran
Of course my experience, an actual user of the F6, can be found here:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154114
Bottom line. Chews through regular batteries. But the Watson rechargeable ones last 30 + rolls in my testing before I lost interest in seeing how long they would last!
Fraser
Well-known
every nikon lens can or can be made to fit on a nikon some may lose autofocus, the only way to get a an fd mount lens on a eos is to either use an adapter which has a lens to keep infinity or have the lens mount changed which is quite expensive and can only be done on some lenses.
I may be wrong but I don't know any nikon lens that can't be used on the F4.
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
I own and have owned in the past, cameras from the big three: Minolta (700si and 9xi) Canon (EOS 5 and EOS 1nRS) and Nikon (F4s and F90x). I ended up selling the Minoltas as I did not want to invest in buying more lenses. The 2 Nikons and 2 Canons are my main cameras.
My view is that unless you are greatly dissatisfied with the EOS system, changing to another system will be a pointless and expensive move - you won't see any practical gains.
If you have a collection of EF glass, buy another EOS-1n that served you so well, or any of it's variants (HS or RS). If you have more money, go for a EOS-1V. If you are on a budget, buy an EOS-5 in good condition and prepare to be amazed. This camera still amazes me with its flawless performance.
My view is that unless you are greatly dissatisfied with the EOS system, changing to another system will be a pointless and expensive move - you won't see any practical gains.
If you have a collection of EF glass, buy another EOS-1n that served you so well, or any of it's variants (HS or RS). If you have more money, go for a EOS-1V. If you are on a budget, buy an EOS-5 in good condition and prepare to be amazed. This camera still amazes me with its flawless performance.
ChrisLivsey
Veteran
I'm only a few rolls into learning the F6, lost count (perhaps I need that data downloader?) of the F100 rolls, had it quite a few years.
I have not seen a practical difference in the metering end results, yet. Both of course do programmable bracketing if you need to get what you want and the subject allows, that may mean you arrive at an offset you are comfortable with, my M8 is set 1/3 stop off permanently.
The F6 is more refined in every way, a pleasure to handle. The F100 gets the job done efficiently but feels its price point, it is not a single digit Pro body but a more than capable second shooter.
My advice would be pick up an F100 maybe a 50mm (if that's your standard) 1.8D together a minimal cost if you are Nikon curious, if smitten and the cost of the F6 is not a stretch you would certainly notice the "upgrade", only you can place the value part of the equation. Is it 6 x F100 to one F6 ? If so I'll take the one, but that's just IMHO.
BTW the F4 I do enjoy but like the F5, I no longer have that one, it is a brute, a muscle car the F6 is sophistication.
On the backlit failure; I do think you are expecting too much of any "dumb" exposure meter system to know about that without being explicitly told in some way , setting an offset for example, if matrix was perfect the other modes would be surperflous, the spot mode is there for a reason, well several really. It's a bit like autofocus it often gets it right but now and again you need top step in and reassure it that yes I do want that small seemingly insignificant detail in sharp focus in the bottom corner of the frame, what you didn't know that, astonishing!
I do remember reading the RGB matrix was tied into distinguishing tungsten, fluorescent illumination to inform the meter from the colour data, perhaps there is some colour temperature calculation involved? Given the press use of the F5 that would make sense in a lot of their interior work, but that is speculation not fact.
I have not seen a practical difference in the metering end results, yet. Both of course do programmable bracketing if you need to get what you want and the subject allows, that may mean you arrive at an offset you are comfortable with, my M8 is set 1/3 stop off permanently.
The F6 is more refined in every way, a pleasure to handle. The F100 gets the job done efficiently but feels its price point, it is not a single digit Pro body but a more than capable second shooter.
My advice would be pick up an F100 maybe a 50mm (if that's your standard) 1.8D together a minimal cost if you are Nikon curious, if smitten and the cost of the F6 is not a stretch you would certainly notice the "upgrade", only you can place the value part of the equation. Is it 6 x F100 to one F6 ? If so I'll take the one, but that's just IMHO.
BTW the F4 I do enjoy but like the F5, I no longer have that one, it is a brute, a muscle car the F6 is sophistication.
On the backlit failure; I do think you are expecting too much of any "dumb" exposure meter system to know about that without being explicitly told in some way , setting an offset for example, if matrix was perfect the other modes would be surperflous, the spot mode is there for a reason, well several really. It's a bit like autofocus it often gets it right but now and again you need top step in and reassure it that yes I do want that small seemingly insignificant detail in sharp focus in the bottom corner of the frame, what you didn't know that, astonishing!
I do remember reading the RGB matrix was tied into distinguishing tungsten, fluorescent illumination to inform the meter from the colour data, perhaps there is some colour temperature calculation involved? Given the press use of the F5 that would make sense in a lot of their interior work, but that is speculation not fact.
GarageBoy
Well-known
Just get a 1V if you already have a EF system
Also, Nikon F6s use CR123s- they're a dollar and something online, not hard to find at all
To be fair, on that back lit image above, if I was shooting slide, I probably would have left it 2 stops darker, because I'd really rather not have the background that blown out - but that's me
Also, Nikon F6s use CR123s- they're a dollar and something online, not hard to find at all
To be fair, on that back lit image above, if I was shooting slide, I probably would have left it 2 stops darker, because I'd really rather not have the background that blown out - but that's me
KM-25
Well-known
The F100 is a pro body in almost every sense, it was used as much as any F body by National Geographic shooters for many years. I used mine as primary body while working for Agence France Presse for 10th months while traveling all around the world. I also preferred it over my then F5 due to size and weight, mine has been in service since 2000, not a single issue other than needing new covering after awhile.
I'm sure the F6 is a great camera but I just don't like the way CR123A batteries lose power and they are not nearly as easy to find in every corner store like AA batteries are. There is another really good reason why AA batteries are a great choice, unlike CR123A's they can be used in a fair amount of other devices, no one trick ponies. The upshot of the CR123A's is that they are smaller.
I suppose for the amateur set the F6 and using CR123A batteries is fine but I employ sensible systems while in the field and often work in cold weather, remote areas and do everything I can to mitigate my use of one trick ponies.
I was tempted by the F6 until I learned what powered it.
Huss
Veteran
You can get the battery grip for it that takes AAs
Or use the rechargeable batteries that last 30+ rolls of film per charge.
If u are going to use MF as well as AF lenses, the F6 is much much better than the F100 as the focus screen is far superior.
And if you shoot with AF lenses, the F6 has a far more advanced AF module than what is in the F100.
Let's not kid ourselves here, there is a reason the F6 costs so much more than the F100. You get what you pay for.
To the OP, if you are already invested in Canon lenses, get another Canon body. They are excellent.
hap
Well-known
I have four M cameras......I guess I like them, and three Nikon film cameras, FA, FM3a, F100.
For the money, and it's not much, the F100 is the greatest camera in my zoo. It just runs and shoots and focuses and meters and everything. I can use all my old Nikon lenses. When I bought digital, which hurt, I found a refurbished 7100 for peanuts. the F100 is worth about peanuts/4 on the open market. A freakin steal. Yes, I will use the FA when I go out and want to be really light. The FM3a....sits in box.
I wish my F lenses would adapt to my M camera. I don't even buy G lenses, AFS AFD... y es.
F100 great...buy it....save money. buy glass.
For the money, and it's not much, the F100 is the greatest camera in my zoo. It just runs and shoots and focuses and meters and everything. I can use all my old Nikon lenses. When I bought digital, which hurt, I found a refurbished 7100 for peanuts. the F100 is worth about peanuts/4 on the open market. A freakin steal. Yes, I will use the FA when I go out and want to be really light. The FM3a....sits in box.
I wish my F lenses would adapt to my M camera. I don't even buy G lenses, AFS AFD... y es.
F100 great...buy it....save money. buy glass.
KM-25
Well-known
With just some simple measurements with digital calipers and some filing, I put a K3 screen for an FM3A in my F100 and it works fantastic, that split screen is great with MF glass. I bet the screens can be swapped on the F6 too, would not be an F pro camera to me if that is not the case.
And I know you get what you pay for, but to a point. I have bought new and pounded the snot out of throughout my career the F3, F4, F5, FM2N, FM3A & F100. My favorite and by far & most productive cameras out of all of them, the F100 and FM3A, now beautifully well worn and flawless operation.
wakarimasen
Well-known
If the matrix meter on my D700 is any guide, then it's not 'magic' and will under/over expose like any other meter, depending on the scene and the exposure method chosen. I'm in a similar position to you, and am trying to decide between a Nikon and Canon system. For the former, the use of Ai lenses on modern film and digital bodies is of interest. However, the only real advantage over using them - with an adapter - on an EOS body, is the ability of the native body not requiring the lens to be stopped- down, with anything other than the maximum aperture.
I'd say pick the best that fits you/ your style/ your taste.
I'd say pick the best that fits you/ your style/ your taste.
ChrisLivsey
Veteran
There are seven screens for the F6, I am using the L screen with a 45degree split image finder.
There are of course F Pro bodies with no choice of screens, just like the new D5!!
ChrisLivsey
Veteran
It was indeed particularly for travel, being the sensible alternative to the F5. If you read the development notes on the Nikon site, I regret the link is not hand, it is clear that the digital writing was on the wall and the camera was designed as a top amateur camera, where the sales were expected to be, not a "real" pro body. ( at the time the cost of digital was seen as a barrier to amateur sales, the D1, launched the same year as the F100, at £3,600 the F100 costing £1,100 at the time, the F5 was £2,500 and let's not mention F5 and batteries in the same sentence !!)
The year the F6 was launched 2004 was the same year that Ilford called in the administrators (later a management buy out saved the firm) film was already spiraling down. The D2x was up to 7MP by then but still cost £3,500.
The F100 was launched in 1999, there were five years of choosing the F100 without having an F6 choice. So indeed National Geographic shooters on film, and they were late digital adopters the D1 was 2.7 MP not acceptable in a phone today made the best choice for five years at least.
Footnote:
I don't think I would ever choose a camera based on the batteries it takes, you could equally choose the F6 because it has the manual film rewind the F100 lacks 😉
markwatts
Mark Watts
Well stated Chris. I also have never understood the angst over battery type. As soon as I bought my first F6 I never touched my F100s again. One of the F6 is always attached to a pack with 'never ending' batteries and the other is on cr123. My life does not require me to be away from a shop selling those for six months at a time.
I have less photographic experience than many here but it is hard to imagine a more sophisticated and yet easy to automate film camera than the F6.
I have less photographic experience than many here but it is hard to imagine a more sophisticated and yet easy to automate film camera than the F6.
dtcls100
Well-known
Having handled and shot with both the F6 and F100, there is really no comparison. The F6 is far better in every way except cost, weight (heavier) and battery availability (although CR123 batteries are not difficult to find and are pretty modest in cost if bought in bulk).
The F6 has a far better build quality, far faster and more sophisticated AF, better viewfinder, is far quieter, faster and more refined film advance and shutter release, better quality rubberized exterior (doesn't get sticky like F100), and very importantly is fully compatible with all recent Nikon CLS type flashes, unlike the F100. It is perfect for fill flash, high synch flash, multi strobe setups, etc. The F6 also has excellent weather and dust sealing, while the F100 suffers from very poor dust sealing because the F100 lacks rubber gaskets in the back due to the plastic used for the camera back, whose thickness precludes such gaskets.
You will pay alot more for a F6, of course. But seeing that the cost doesn't seem to be a real problem for the OP, you should go for it. The battery issue is really grossly exaggerated if you get the latest firmware or get the additional MB-40 battery pack and grip (which allows for using AA batteries, including rechargeables). With a set of Enloops, you can get over 30-40 36 exp rolls on a single charge.
The F6 has a far better build quality, far faster and more sophisticated AF, better viewfinder, is far quieter, faster and more refined film advance and shutter release, better quality rubberized exterior (doesn't get sticky like F100), and very importantly is fully compatible with all recent Nikon CLS type flashes, unlike the F100. It is perfect for fill flash, high synch flash, multi strobe setups, etc. The F6 also has excellent weather and dust sealing, while the F100 suffers from very poor dust sealing because the F100 lacks rubber gaskets in the back due to the plastic used for the camera back, whose thickness precludes such gaskets.
You will pay alot more for a F6, of course. But seeing that the cost doesn't seem to be a real problem for the OP, you should go for it. The battery issue is really grossly exaggerated if you get the latest firmware or get the additional MB-40 battery pack and grip (which allows for using AA batteries, including rechargeables). With a set of Enloops, you can get over 30-40 36 exp rolls on a single charge.
HHPhoto
Well-known
+1.
I am using an F6 for years, and have qiute a lot of experience with F100 and F5, too.
There is no competition, the F6 is much much better in every respect compared to F100 and F5.
I highly recommend the MB-40 vertical grip for the F6. Perfect ergonomics and perfect power options (I am using the rechargeable Eneloops, perfect combination).
Cheers, Jan
keechoon
Member
I have the same issue with the 58mm 1.4G and also the Sigma 35mm f1.4 on my F5. Both lens needs AF fine tune to work on my D750 but AF fine tune options are not available on F5, and F6 if I'm not wrong. Has anyone tried either on the F6 and is the AF able to get accurate focusing at wide open?
Huss
Veteran
I tried a friend's Sigma 50 1.4 AF lens on my F6 and it was not sharp at 1.4.
My MF lenses are. I do not see a way to fine tune the AF on the F6 like with DSLRs so it seems these recent AF lenses do not work well with these old film SLRs. the F6 may still be in production, but it is old in tech given that it was released in 2004. AF lenses have moved a long way since then.
ChrisLivsey
Veteran
I am tempted to say, well yes I will, if the way the AF lenses have moved is to not focusing correctly unless fine tuned then the move was backwards. :angel:
