F3 metering

[Gumby]

There was an interesting thread about an hour ago. What happened to it? Did anyone have a recommendation on how to make the meter locking function more convenient to use? I never understood how threads appear and then mysteriously disappear.

 

[ferider]

I deleted it. No answer to my questions except everybody telling me that the F3 was fine as is. I'll ask somewhere else.

 

[ampguy]

Hi Roland and Gumby. I missed the question, can you repeat it? I'd be pleased to give my input, fwiw 😉

 

[css9450]

I deleted it. No answer to my questions except everybody telling me that the F3 was fine as is. I'll ask somewhere else.

I saw several mentions of the exposure lock button. Were you expecting something else? That's how it works on the F3 and pretty much any other Nikon camera I've used.

Some don't have such button, though, like the FA.

 

[FrankS]

There was an interesting thread about an hour ago. What happened to it? Did anyone have a recommendation on how to make the meter locking function more convenient to use? I never understood how threads appear and then mysteriously disappear.

It's not at all complicated. Either the OP deletes it, or a moderator deletes it.

 

[Muggins]

Well, it was useful to me while it lasted, because it explained the dramatic swings in exposure time suggested when taking photos of cricketers*

Adrian

*A sport supposed to be played in white, whatever administrators and the IPL think.

 

[Gumby]

It's not at all complicated. Either the OP deletes it, or a moderator deletes it.

Thanks for the tutorial... I understand the mechanics; I guess that was a back-handed rhetorical question that should have been phrased "why" rather than "how". I now know both.

 

[Gumby]

Hi Roland and Gumby. I missed the question, can you repeat it? I'd be pleased to give my input, fwiw 😉

In a nut shell - Roland asserted that the F3 has spot metering capability that he liked using to establish an exposure but finds the exposure lock button to be inconvenient and was seeking alternative solutions, like rigging hte shutter release to hold the exposure with a half push.

Several people indicated that F3 has 80-20 center-weighted metering but the spot is big, not small. One person offered a potential solution of extending the exposure lock button. Several pointed out that that feature hasn't been used much by them.

Please supply any input you may want to give.

 

[Robert Lai]

The exposure lock button and the infernal meter display light button are the two most non-user friendly items in terms of location and usability. I usually just switch to manual mode instead of the exposure lock button. If you let go by accident, the exposure is not locked any more.

The meter light works only when the meter is on. Which means that you have to push the shutter button down periodically, AND hold down that tiny red button in order to see the display. If you don't push the button in fully, the light flickers. If I'm shooting in the dark (which the F3 is supremely capable of doing in AUTO mode), then I carry a small light with me for the meter display.

The meter pattern is an 80/20 center weighted pattern. With flash TTL control, the meter pattern is a rectangle based in the center of the screen.

 

[ampguy]

interesting. I don't use that button, and had to look it up in the manual. I do use DOF preview (to meter and shoot) as I think I have to with some non/pre/F lenses, otherwise it meters and shoots wide open.

But if I were an exposure lock user, yeah, it's in an inconvenient spot. Go for it and mod it! These are cheap and plentiful. I can't seem to give one away.

 

[sevo]

But if I were an exposure lock user, yeah, it's in an inconvenient spot.

The habitual use of auto modes for quasi manual exposure/focus by locking-and-panning did only grow upon photographers in the AF age. In the time of the F3 it still was a matter of heated debates whether AE lock, backlight compensation or neither of them deserved an extra button.

Many cameras at the time, most notably the directly competing and slightly later Canon F-1 New, did not have a exposure lock at all. And the push-in lock on the F3 was already a slight improvement on the preceding FE exposure lock, where you had to slide the self timer lever (inaccessible with the motor attached) towards the lens.

 

[Muggins]

The exposure lock button and the infernal meter display light button

Something tells me that's not a typo... 😀

Adrian

 

[Calzone]

The exposure lock button and the infernal meter display light button are the two most non-user friendly items in terms of location and usability. I usually just switch to manual mode instead of the exposure lock button. If you let go by accident, the exposure is not locked any more.

The meter light works only when the meter is on. Which means that you have to push the shutter button down periodically, AND hold down that tiny red button in order to see the display. If you don't push the button in fully, the light flickers. If I'm shooting in the dark (which the F3 is supremely capable of doing in AUTO mode), then I carry a small light with me for the meter display.

The meter pattern is an 80/20 center weighted pattern. With flash TTL control, the meter pattern is a rectangle based in the center of the screen.

Robert,

On my F3P I modded the camera with a small shim made from a matchbook cover so that the light is on anytime that the meter is activated for night shooting. A detailed post is in the MODIFICATION thread in the camera repairs section. Only thing is that the battery drain is rather severe unless you use a MD-4 which has mucho capacity.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Roland,

Wish I had a solution. If the exposure memory lock didn't have to remain depressed to hold the exposure the function would be less awkward. I find the exposure memory lock on my Pentax 67II to be very ergonomic. All I have to do is depress a button momentarily and exposure remains locked until either: the button for exposure lock is depressed a second time, effectively unlocking it; or an exposure is taken.

I know you are a very clever guy. Perhaps you could mod the manual shutter release lever into a lock that will keep the memory lock button depressed. Maybe the mirror lockup lever and button can be used off a parts camera for use.

I will consult with Nippon Camera Clinic here in New York. If a mod is possible I would get the work performed on my F3P. Although the metering on the F3 is deadly accurate, you have hit upon a weak point that hopefully can be overcome. The mirror lockup lever perhaps could help overcome this limitation if it can be installed to hold that momentary switch depressed.. The manual shutter release I have never used, and I definitely can live without.

BTW a F3P with Noct-Nikkor is a deadly rig.

Cal

 

[ferider]

Thanks, Cal. When you ask them, I wouldn't mind a permanent coupling between light meter switch (release button half depressed) and meter lock.

Would love to shoot the F3 like I use my Hexar AF, or how I would shoot an M7, point, meter&lock, recompose and shoot.

BTW, whether you call it spot meter or not, with the mirror pin-holes, second meter and condenser, I think the F3 meter is constructed very cleverly. And I like the 20/80 center distribution, very similar to M6 or M7, for instance.

Wish I could try a Noct-Nikkor 🙂 But: I just got a beautiful copy of the elusive Japanese 50/1.8S in the mail last week, I'm thrilled how it feels and looks on the F3.

And Ted, bring your F3 when you come down next time 🙂

Roland.

 

[Gumby]

Perhaps you could mod the manual shutter release lever into a lock that will keep the memory lock button depressed. Maybe the mirror lockup lever and button can be used off a parts camera for use.l

I suggested a simple extension to the button. If it were not so low it would be easier to press and hold.

 

[Calzone]

Thanks, Cal. When you ask them, I wouldn't mind a permanent coupling between light meter switch (release button half depressed) and meter lock.

Would love to shoot the F3 like I use my Hexar AF, or how I would shoot an M7, point, meter&lock, recompose and shoot.

BTW, whether you call it spot meter or not, with the mirror pin-holes, second meter and condenser, I think the F3 meter is constructed very cleverly. And I like the 20/80 center distribution, very similar to M6 or M7, for instance.

Wish I could try a Noct-Nikkor 🙂 But: I just got a beautiful copy of the elusive Japanese 50/1.8S in the mail last week, I'm thrilled how it feels and looks on the F3.

And Ted, bring your F3 when you come down next time 🙂

Roland.

Roland,

I use my Monochrom in Auto all the time. The shutter release is the elegant way to go.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Roland,

No solution from Nippon.

I was playing around with my F3P and F3HP last night. It seems that the ergonomics for the exposure lock is much better with a MD-4 motordrive.

For use without a motordrive I discovered that using my left hand ring finger made it easier to keep the button depressed, even when focusing with my index finger and thumb.

Sorry that I was of little help.

Cal

 

[Robert Lai]

Hi Cal,
I had that light button modification once, where the meter light stays on anytime the meter is on. That little bulb burns out a lot of current quickly. It will drain even an MD-4 with NiCd pack in it. That has been long undone.

I do use the manual shutter release often. Usually, to prevent the long delays if the shutter speed dial is left on AUTO while loading film, and I'm trying to get to frame 1 quickly.

 

[ruby.monkey]

That's odd. Doesn't your F3 switch automatically to 1/80s after loading a new roll, until you wind on to the first frame?