Seele
Anachronistic modernist
I feel that one's personal favourite 400-speed film depends on one's requirements and expectations.
Tri-X, and especially HP5+ are biased towards shadows: they have low overall contrast but extra punch at the toe end of the curve, making them pushable for available-light work which they excel at. T-Max (both 400 and 100) are biased towards highlights so they retain much less shadow details but at the shoulder end have extra separation.
I would hate to use TMY foravailable light work for I would lose precious shadow details at the danger of blockking highlights. But these days many people use 400-speed films routinely so the inherent characteristics of Tri-X and HP5 might not be a deciding factor, and under such situations TMY might give a slight edge in absolute image quality if we disregard tonal rendition across the scale.
Tri-X, and especially HP5+ are biased towards shadows: they have low overall contrast but extra punch at the toe end of the curve, making them pushable for available-light work which they excel at. T-Max (both 400 and 100) are biased towards highlights so they retain much less shadow details but at the shoulder end have extra separation.
I would hate to use TMY foravailable light work for I would lose precious shadow details at the danger of blockking highlights. But these days many people use 400-speed films routinely so the inherent characteristics of Tri-X and HP5 might not be a deciding factor, and under such situations TMY might give a slight edge in absolute image quality if we disregard tonal rendition across the scale.
Uncle Bill
Well-known
I am fan of both HP5 and Tri-x, both are my go-to films for 400 ISO black and white and I usually use HC110 or D76 as my regular developers. I know how both behave so use I love them both.
I love Agfa APX 400 processed in Diafine, I got really nice results out of Fuji Neopan 400 with HC110 but is not available in the suburbs and I enjoyed playing around with Classicpan/Forte 400 when it was still available.
I am getting a watson bulk loader and a 100' of Tri-x for Xmas and I am planning to have a lot fun trying it out with Diafine and Xtol in the new year.
I love Agfa APX 400 processed in Diafine, I got really nice results out of Fuji Neopan 400 with HC110 but is not available in the suburbs and I enjoyed playing around with Classicpan/Forte 400 when it was still available.
I am getting a watson bulk loader and a 100' of Tri-x for Xmas and I am planning to have a lot fun trying it out with Diafine and Xtol in the new year.
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lawrence
Veteran
It's interesting to see just how popular HP5 & Tri-X are compared to the other films and I guess it's because they are so amazingly flexible. Personally I prefer HP5 at rated speed and Tri-X if I have to push.
adietrich
Established
APX-400 in Atomal. Even scans nicely.
-a
-a
jky
Well-known
HP5 & TriX because of the flexibility as stated above plus it covers A LOT of my exposure errors! 
colyn
ישו משיח
Tri-X was my fav for years but have since switched to Ilford HP5 and Fuji Neopan 400.
elude
Some photographer
Depends on the subject; Tmax for portraits in Tmax dvper or HP5 in ID-11 for daily street photography (sometimes in Rodinal which I never do with Tri-X- too crispy)
Tuolumne
Veteran
You didn't list any chromogenic B&W films. Don't you consider them "B&W"?
/T
/T
Quercus
Quercus
Rollei R3 is a lovely film to "play" with
infrequent
Well-known
yes..wondering about chromogenic films as well. which are the ones you guys use?!
amateriat
We're all light!
I alternate between the two chromogenics generally available (here in the US, at least): Ilford XP-2 Super, and Kodak BW400 CN, in that order.
- Barrett
- Barrett
Tuolumne
Veteran
amateriat said:I alternate between the two chromogenics generally available (here in the US, at least): Ilford XP-2 Super, and Kodak BW400 CN, in that order.
- Barrett
Ditto, but in reverse order.
/T
eric
[was]: emaquiling
I've processed (in a pro lab) thousands and thousands of tri-x and hp5+. I like the Fuji. I can't tell the difference in 35mm size (all processed in d76). Perhaps these 3 films exhibit different qualities with different developers but I would take a guess that they look the same if processed in the same developer.crawdiddy said:I've always shot Kodak and Ilford b&w films.
I've noticed that Fuji Neopan seems to have a following. Can someone tell me what you like about it, other than 50 cents cheaper than HP5 and a buck cheaper than Tri-X?
The reason I like the Fuji is it is a lot cheaper.
I am currently printing 16x20's from Fuji Neopan 120 and 35mm right now. This is going to take a couple of months to do, I have about 30 images to make.
If people are just scanning these for web or making 4x6/5x7 or even 8x10 sizes, 35mm in 400 speed is just not worth the effort in making Brand X look better than Brand Y. It would if you were shooting 35mm 50ISo or 25iso versus 100ISO and 400iso
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Don't know how I missed this one Thomas-
HP5+, but that Fuji Neopan 400 is closing the gap for my work. Handles snow really beautifully, while still giving all the shadow detail one would want.
HP5+, but that Fuji Neopan 400 is closing the gap for my work. Handles snow really beautifully, while still giving all the shadow detail one would want.
Bob Michaels
nobody special
FYI, B&H now has $2.99 rolls of 35mm Neopan 400 back in stock. They were never out of stock of the $2.74 120 Neopan 400.
So I replenished my supply.
So I replenished my supply.
eric
[was]: emaquiling
Bob Michaels said:FYI, B&H now has $2.99 rolls of 35mm Neopan 400 back in stock. They were never out of stock of the $2.74 120 Neopan 400.
So I replenished my supply.
I get a year's supply as well in the beginning of the year.
Bob Michaels
nobody special
eric: I have found the thought "what am I going to do with all that film in the freezer" encourages me to shoot more. And the more I shoot, the better my photos become.
$200 worth of film and $25 worth of chemistry always has a more positive impact on the quality of my work than any new lens or camera body, regardless of their cost.
$200 worth of film and $25 worth of chemistry always has a more positive impact on the quality of my work than any new lens or camera body, regardless of their cost.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I voted for Tri-X, but the new TMY is maybe winning me over. What I don't know about it is:
* "Pushability"
* Spectral response with filters compared to TX
Those are minor things, especially as if I need pushability I pretty well know how Tri-X responds and can use that until I experiment with TMY-2.
* "Pushability"
* Spectral response with filters compared to TX
Those are minor things, especially as if I need pushability I pretty well know how Tri-X responds and can use that until I experiment with TMY-2.
Jeroen
Well-known
I vote for Fuji Superia 400 and a BW conversion in Photoshop. A little extra grain and it's sooo good.
lewis44
Well-known

I have to 2nd this. I use BW400CN mostly and find it to have great latitude and process C-41, means I can get it done fast and cheap. I develop Only @ my local processer and scan the film with a Nikon LS-5000. A nice film for scanners.These days its Ilford XP2 or Kodak's BW400CN. This may make me appear like someone who buys their wine in a box but I find the stuff very forgiving and more than adequate for my use at this time.
Some of my cameras are quite old, the shutters are a little off sometimes, so the extra lattitude works in my favor.
I shoot it @ 320 instead of 400 and really like the results.
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