aazz44
Newbie
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone here has experience using a UV filter and Polarizing filter on the 43mm.
I have a ultra-thin UV filter, but it does not have front threads.
How or what do I use for a polarizer ?
How about a Grad ND ?
Thanks,
Mike A.
I was wondering if anyone here has experience using a UV filter and Polarizing filter on the 43mm.
I have a ultra-thin UV filter, but it does not have front threads.
How or what do I use for a polarizer ?
How about a Grad ND ?
Thanks,
Mike A.
The thin UV filter is a good idea, I think. But you'll want to use only one filter at a time, ideally. Both the polarizer and ND grad filters present problems on the Mamiya 7... both are much easier to use on an SLR because there you can see the effect in the viewfinder. The polarizer can be held in front of your eye and rotated to the desired effect, then put onto the lens in that same orientation for the shots.
The graduated filter is gonna be real tough, and I have no idea how you could made that work well on an RF camera. This filter, at least, is likely to be a square gelatin filter in a largish external frame, not a screw-in filter... and thus easier to deal with physically, as far as shifting it around. Except you can't see what it's doing to your landscape... unless you will open the back and use a ground glass at the film plane, then load and shoot!
Maybe others will have better ideas...
The graduated filter is gonna be real tough, and I have no idea how you could made that work well on an RF camera. This filter, at least, is likely to be a square gelatin filter in a largish external frame, not a screw-in filter... and thus easier to deal with physically, as far as shifting it around. Except you can't see what it's doing to your landscape... unless you will open the back and use a ground glass at the film plane, then load and shoot!
Maybe others will have better ideas...
thomas_m
Member
Mamiya makes a polarizer attachement for the M6/M7's. It flips up over the camera for setting then down over the lens. They are expensive new but come up on eBay every so often. Still, not nearly as easy to use as with an SLR. This and the other usual issues are why I've supplemented my Mamiya 6 with a Rollei SL66(that and that it's coolness almost matches the Mamiya).
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=details_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=213736&is=REG
GND's would be pure guesswork.
T.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=details_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=213736&is=REG
GND's would be pure guesswork.
T.
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hoot
green behind the ears
Doug said:
Wow, is that possible? I don't really do landscape shots, but I'm a former SLR user and I'm spoiled in regard to the "what you see is what you get" bit. Being able to use ground glass with my Mamiya 6 would pretty much eliminate my need of ever buying a view camera. Please advise!
thomas_m
Member
hoot said:
People buy a view camera for the larger negative and more importantly, the movements. Ground glass composing though the back of an M6 is not going to help with either. Worse, you can only do it for one shot per roll...
T.
Sure, Hoot, and this is how one can check focusing accuracy of the rangefinder... Use a magnifying glass to examine a translucent focusing screen at the film plane and see if the subject is in focus both there and in the rangfinder/viewfinder. Some people have used an actual SLR ground glass screen placed against the film plane with the matte surface towards the lens, so that the "ground" surface is exactly where the film surface would be. A much cheaper cruder but workable option is to stretch several lengths of that frosted type of Scotch tape across the film plane for the test.
Out in the field, the actual ground glass would be more convenient by far, but still quite inconvenient considering the camera must be empty at the time. 120/220 film can't readily be rewound like 35mm can. So you'd finish a roll, then have an opportunity to use the ground glass, then load a roll and shoot the whole roll before being able to place the ground glass again! Still, that does give you a parallax-free 100% view of what you will get on film (noting it's a rare SLR that gives you 100% in the viewfinder), also including depth of field.
And if this were a popular thing to do, someone would build a gizmo similar to the chimney kind of waist-level SLR viewfinder to snap into place over the film plane. Indeed I think such a thing IS made for 4x5 cameras. A right-side up unreversed view would be nice.
Thinking 4x5 still, I can just imagine getting lined up on one's landscape scene this way, and then inserting a film holder without even needing to disturb the viewer gizmo. Pull the dark slide, signal to your lovely nymph model to cavort gracefully across the sward, and press the shutter release! One could even take several similar exposures without resorting to the viewer... Classic fun!
Out in the field, the actual ground glass would be more convenient by far, but still quite inconvenient considering the camera must be empty at the time. 120/220 film can't readily be rewound like 35mm can. So you'd finish a roll, then have an opportunity to use the ground glass, then load a roll and shoot the whole roll before being able to place the ground glass again! Still, that does give you a parallax-free 100% view of what you will get on film (noting it's a rare SLR that gives you 100% in the viewfinder), also including depth of field.
And if this were a popular thing to do, someone would build a gizmo similar to the chimney kind of waist-level SLR viewfinder to snap into place over the film plane. Indeed I think such a thing IS made for 4x5 cameras. A right-side up unreversed view would be nice.
Thinking 4x5 still, I can just imagine getting lined up on one's landscape scene this way, and then inserting a film holder without even needing to disturb the viewer gizmo. Pull the dark slide, signal to your lovely nymph model to cavort gracefully across the sward, and press the shutter release! One could even take several similar exposures without resorting to the viewer... Classic fun!
hoot
green behind the ears
Thomas - you're definitely right about the movements. Regarding size, I was considering getting a 2x3" view camera with a 120 roll film back, which would've given me negatives not considerably bigger than those made by the Mamiya.
Doug - thanks for elaborating. I wouldn't mind being able to preview only once per roll. I use the Mamiya 6 almost exclusively for street photography (handheld, of course), but it would be practical if I could also use it off the tripod for more controlled photography without having to own a "what you see is what you get" camera just for that. The ground glass solution seems perfect for that specific purpose.
One more question - do you recommend just holding up the piece of glass to the film plane, or have you tested a simple yet elegant way to attach it there for a short while so that your hands are free to fiddle with settings while being able to preview at the same time? Sticky tape sounds so... sticky.
Doug - thanks for elaborating. I wouldn't mind being able to preview only once per roll. I use the Mamiya 6 almost exclusively for street photography (handheld, of course), but it would be practical if I could also use it off the tripod for more controlled photography without having to own a "what you see is what you get" camera just for that. The ground glass solution seems perfect for that specific purpose.
One more question - do you recommend just holding up the piece of glass to the film plane, or have you tested a simple yet elegant way to attach it there for a short while so that your hands are free to fiddle with settings while being able to preview at the same time? Sticky tape sounds so... sticky.
Sorry, Hoot, no good advice to offer.hoot said:
But if I were going to be doing this a lot, I think I'd look into a chimney-type focusing hood (or even a common folding hood with magnifier) made for some brand of TLR or waist-level SLR with the intent to construct a gizmo as mentioned earlier with a ground-glass, and that latches somehow to the open back-side of the camera.
I'm interested in seeing what comes of your interest in this!
jdos2
Well-known
I used a polarizer with my 7 for a bit, but the downsides, in particular, the difficulty in keeping the sky well and evenly colored, especially with the 43mm lens, made me think otherwise.
So... I just settled. On some of the best lenses MF has to offer. Their color was FINE for me, sans filter.
So... I just settled. On some of the best lenses MF has to offer. Their color was FINE for me, sans filter.
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hoot
green behind the ears
Well, I'll be experimenting a bit, then, Doug. This isn't something I'd be needing often since I almost never do studio/landscape/architecture stuff where it might really come in handy, but I am hoping to be able to sell the camera I'd otherwise be keeping for that purpose, the Kiev 60, for a bit of quick cash, so I can get my fix of Neopan and the G 50mmL. *drool*