First C-41 self developing

Update: I stopped using the first set of baths after developing the 29th roll. Most developed films were 200 ASA, one 100, one 400.
The examples are from the last film.
 

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Update: I stopped using the first set of baths after developing the 29th roll. Most developed films were 200 ASA, one 100, one 400.
The examples are from the last film.

Do I understand this correct, you used the same working solution since September 9 th (your first post in this thread) and developed 29 rolls out of it ?? The colors from your last roll still looke very good ! How do you store the chemicals ?
 
You are right. I used the same working solution (1 litre Tetenal Colotec kit) and the chemicals were stored in black plastic bottles in my bathroom at normal room temperature.
 
Update!
After using the first working solution for 29 films, I decided to go as far as possible with the second one. Yesterday I reached the end. I had developed 34 rolls in the same solution with no problems over some weeks, so I put four other rolls in my tank and ... All four rolls showed extremely erratic colors. So I think 34 rolls from a Tetenal Colortec 1-litre-kit is the highscore. The normally orange base was blue-green after developing, so I think the bleach bath has died. (I used a tested camera with no leaks)
 

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Updated information to the Tetenal C-41 kit:
In December 2008 I developed 23 films with a 1l Tetenal kit. I had decided that 2009 should be a B&W year, so I stored the C-41 baths on my bathroom shelf. Today I felt the need for color and took the chemicals down to develop two films.
Here is an example of what I got with more than a year old chemicals:
The first one is straight out of the scanner (Canoscan 8400F, Canon software)

C41%2B2010-002.05.jpg


The second one is after PS:

C41%2B2010-002.05.2.jpg
 
You are right. I found that the Tetenal advice for 12-16 rolls from 1l is far too low. I got good results when developing 30 rolls and more as I stated above. The two rolls today show imo that a long, warm (bathroom) storage can bring useable results too.
 
Wait, Zeno, these were diluted chemicals?!? That you mixed and stored in airless containers? I've been assuming a shelf life of maybe two months. This is excellent news.
 
wow. great results Petronius. Thanks for sharing. I am planning a visit to B&H, possibly tomorrow, to return after a 25+ year break to souping my own film. I hadn't considered C-41, but you make it look doable. Thanks for putting up those images, etc. on your blog. I haven't done this in so long, and wasn't very good at it when I last tried, so I think I'll be starting with b&w in xtol first. But, this definitely gives me something else to look forward to later.

Lovely images, btw. You continue to impress.
 
Hi,

I am reviving this thread with a question. It seems through your findings, that youcan easily develop double the amount of film with good results. But how are those negs holding up a couple of years later? I am particularly interested to know about the few last rolls developed from a kit. Are they any darker than the first rolls? If the stabilizer was weak I would think that the film would keep cooking.

I am ordering my first C41 kit soon and would like to know how far I can go with it. Have anyone tried replenishing the blix or stabilizer? Is that possible?
 
Hi,

I am reviving this thread with a question. It seems through your findings, that youcan easily develop double the amount of film with good results. But how are those negs holding up a couple of years later? I am particularly interested to know about the few last rolls developed from a kit. Are they any darker than the first rolls? If the stabilizer was weak I would think that the film would keep cooking.

I am ordering my first C41 kit soon and would like to know how far I can go with it. Have anyone tried replenishing the blix or stabilizer? Is that possible?

My tank takes 600 ml for two reels, so I am trying this: I divided the 1 liter volumes of developer and blix into 600 + 400 ml, the 400 kept aside as a replenisher of sorts. I had planned on eventually throwing out 400 ml of the used developer and blix and replacing with the "fresh" stuff.

I will probably do that after 15-20 rolls (hey, given Petronius' data, maybe the limit is 40!)

Randy
 
On my 20th roll with the Tetenal C-41 kit and the blix and dev are decidedly darker now than they were out of the kit, they also have a stronger smell. Films still look same as on roll 1.
 
Yes, diluted chemicals, mixed and stored in black containers with little air above. I had expected blank negatives or way bigger color aberrations.

Your comment about "diluted" has caught my attention. Did you mix the chemicals differently from the recommendations of Tetenal Instructions?

they suggest
1000 ml of water including the Developer chemicals
1000 ml of water including the Blix A and B
1000 ml of water including the Stabilizer

what "dilutions" did you use to store the chemicals?
Did you just add water to top up the containers to 1000 ml after running the film thru the process and then store?
Or did you add water to have dilutions in excess of 1000 ml of solutions?
 
My tank takes 600 ml for two reels, so I am trying this: I divided the 1 liter volumes of developer and blix into 600 + 400 ml, the 400 kept aside as a replenisher of sorts. I had planned on eventually throwing out 400 ml of the used developer and blix and replacing with the "fresh" stuff.

I will probably do that after 15-20 rolls (hey, given Petronius' data, maybe the limit is 40!)

Randy

I am not sure if this will bring you more developed rolls. It is the one liter solution that will give you your total amount of rolls, so just pouring the used chemicals back into the fresh after every developing will give the same result.

The film might look good and OK now, but how does it look after several years in archive? My guess is, that it will be darker than the rolls developed in fresher chems.
 
Your comment about "diluted" has caught my attention. Did you mix the chemicals differently from the recommendations of Tetenal Instructions?

they suggest
1000 ml of water including the Developer chemicals
1000 ml of water including the Blix A and B
1000 ml of water including the Stabilizer

what "dilutions" did you use to store the chemicals?
Did you just add water to top up the containers to 1000 ml after running the film thru the process and then store?
Or did you add water to have dilutions in excess of 1000 ml of solutions?

Sorry, with diluted I meant the working solutions according to the manual!
 
I am not sure if this will bring you more developed rolls. It is the one liter solution that will give you your total amount of rolls, so just pouring the used chemicals back into the fresh after every developing will give the same result.

The film might look good and OK now, but how does it look after several years in archive? My guess is, that it will be darker than the rolls developed in fresher chems.

No, I meant holding the 400 ml in reserve, using the 600 ml for say 20 rolls, then discarding 400ml of the used solutions and replacing with the fresh 400 ml. So the final mix is 400 fresh + 200 used.

Randy
 
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