First Prints...Unsatisfactory :(

[LeicaFoReVer]

Well after long time planning I did my first printing in my bathroom...But I didnt like the results and I want to ask people here from their experiences what might be the reasons...

The problem in the results that they are too soft and there is lack of contrast... (white is not white, black is not black)...I have two possibilities in my mind...

1) the negatives themselves lack the contrast

2) there is a problem in the enlarger

The first one might be the case but the scans of the films look great. Is it the case that the scans always increase the contrast? Do you have any experience on that?

The second is as well possible. I have Bessa printmaker 35 and there is only one condenser lens inside the chamber...To my knowledge there must be two facing to each other.,but I ask that in the forums in rff and some people having the same enlarger with one lens stated that they never had a problem on that...

I used first 1+3 developer for the paper then I tried 1+1 and it was better but still too soft and without contrast I see on the film...I used Multigrade IV Ilford paper...

 

[LeicaFoReVer]

Ao, what filter? I didnt use any filter...what is it for? I knew something is missing...

 

[capitalK]

Yeah the lack of filters is probably your problem. You could get filters or buy graded paper (if you can find it).

 

[LeicaFoReVer]

Aha, ok guys thank you very much for indicating that...I think I was so excited so I started that without investigating properly...

Do you think that I need another condenser lens as well?

 

[Fotohuis]

You have enlargers with:

Single condensor
Double condensor
Diffusser chamber
Diffuser chamber + condensor

Depending on the type you have to control (=develop) your negatives in such a way that gradation 2,5 will generate the perfect print.
However this is not always possible therefore you can control the contrast by Multi Grade (MG) filters together with MG B&W paper.
The filter values are going from 00 to 5 where 00 is very soft and 5 is very hard.
A hard negative you are compensating with a soft (Yellow) filter where a soft negative you're using with a hard (=Magenta) filter.

I wish you success with the next comming prints.

Robert

 

[MartinP]

Don't forget to check that your chosen room is dark when you have the safelight turned off. You should wait about 15 minutes at least for your eyes to really adjust, then it is amazing where light appears from ! Also confirm that your safelight is really safe (not a christmas-tree-lamp six-inches from the developer-tray for example). Lastly, check that the developer is meant for paper, that it is freshly mixed and that the temperature and dilution are correct.

"What could possibly go wrong ?" . . . . 😉

Keep trying though, it won't be long before it seems easy.

 

[chris91387]

set a coin or something on a piece of paper for a minute or two while the safelight is on and develop the paper to see what happens. if you see a circle where the coin was then you might be fogging your paper.

 

[Fotohuis]

You have to pre expose your paper first (very short) and then the paper has been made high sensitive, and then put the coin on the paper.

Your safe time without fogging must be at least 5 minutes.

When your darkroom light is not safe extend the distance. Faulty safelights will also cause a lack of contrast.

 

[David William White]

One practice you might consider adding to your workflow is making a contact sheet of your negatives. If the contrast is low on a contact print, and 'light quality' was normal, you might consider extending your development and/or adjusting your exposure. A proper contact sheet is the litmus test of good negatives, and if the contacts look fine, they should print just fine with a #2 or 2.5 filter, and likewise will tell you if you need to print harder or softer.

See other threads on making contact sheets if you're not familiar with their diagnostic power, and have fun!

 

[Nate Butler]

When you write "soft" do you mean they should be sharper?
I found using a grain focuser was very helpful in obtaining sharper prints.

 

[kmerenkov]

Safelights are not really safe. You should not expose your paper for long time witth safelights. Put your safelight somewhere far, so you are able to see things but it is not really bright.

 

[sepiareverb]

Grey white tones usually means too much exposure time- if your borders are white. If the borders of the paper are white then the safelight is ok- if there is tone in the border then your safelights are too bright. Move them farther away or use a lower watt bulb. I have 5W nightlight bulbs in some of my safelights.

Develop a full minute for RC and two minutes for fiber paper as a starting point- too short a development time will make for 'not black' black.