Leica LTM First time with a Barnack

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses
Juan, we got all caught up in the film loading discussion and I didn't congratulate you on your new Leica. They are fun although I much prefer a film rewind crank but thats not the point here. There is something that is a little exciting and very pleasing about having an old camera that still produces such wonderful results. I am sure you will enjoy it. It's a bit of an eye catcher as well with their classic look. Very nice purchase! - jim
 
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Robert Lai said:
Please people, don't keep perpetuating myths.

Cut the film leader, because otherwise the film is liable to get caught in the pressure plate / film gate and tear some sprockets, as Juan just found out. I found that out the hard way myself also. Then the film chips can affect the travel of the shutter and really mess it up, or just outright jam it.

The ABLON template is the Leitz cutting guide. As with everything carrying the name Leitz, it is costly. You can do this with scissors in a few seconds without a cutting guide. Just find a ruler that is at least 4 inches (10cm) long. I actually have a Korean made Ablon copy. I didn't even know I had it, until I was clearing away a bunch of old darkroom equipment. With the guide and a scalpel, the film is cut in less than 5 seconds. I can usually load a Barnack under 1 minute with properly cut film.

Using a card to load film is quite a bad idea. You risk introducing grit onto your pressure plate each time, you screw around with the film gate with the shutter on "T" (for which you've got to remove the lens first), and you don't do the pressure plate springs any favors. Just cut the film for heaven's sake.

The Leica II style shutters do accelerate as they traverse the film gate. The trick is to get the second shutter to move a little less fast than the first curtain, so the overall exposure time is the same from one side to the other. It can be done, and Leitz's old standard was to be within about 1/3 of an f/stop from one side to the other at most. The Russian cameras FED/Zorki have the same design of shutter, and they can be adjusted also in the same manner (see the FSU header for a great sticky article on FSU shutter adjustment). If your shutter can't travel evenly across the frame at 1/20, then you need an overhaul.

Later shutters on the IIIF RD/IIIG have a separate cam for 1/1000 speed, but can also be adjusted to shoot at maximum speed without tapering. 1/1000 though, is the most sensitive shutter speed to show uneven shutter travel, by photographing the sky as someone else has mentioned. I like shooting at 1/1000 and 1/500 all the time, as I like to shoot with the lens wide open. It also minimizes any problems with hand shake when taking the image. What good is a camera that can't be fired at certain shutter speeds? To me, that means repair is needed.

I've used DAG or Youxin Ye as my destinations to send any newly acquired Barnack. They almost all need working on first, being at least 50 years old. My slides shot at 1/1000 don't show any change in exposure from one side to the other - after either of the two masters have overhauled the cameras.
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Thanks a lot, Robert!

Cheers,

Juan
 
zenlibra said:
If you look closely you can see that the film has been cut, the narrow part of the leader is longer than normal.

This thread has me drooling for a Barnack now. Do they really have a 1.5X magnification in the rangefinder window? Sounds like a replacement for my beloved (though flimsy after owning an M2) Bessa T.

Juan, great idea for testing focus, I'm going to do this also.
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Yes, they seem to be 1.5 like Ts, but inside the circle, in Barnacks the patch circle is smaller than in T's, but it works well anyway...

Cheers,

Juan
 
barnwulf said:
Juan, we got all caught up in the film loading discussion and I didn't congratulate you on your new Leica. They are fun although I much prefer a film rewind crank but thats not the point here. There is something that is a little exciting and very pleasing about having an old camera that still produces such wonderful results. I am sure you will enjoy it. It's a bit of an eye catcher as well with their classic look. Very nice purchase! - jim
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Sweet of you, Jim! Thanks for these and your previous comments!

Cheers,

Juan
 
Two quick comments.. ok, make that three:

1. I got an Albion look-alike template from Mark Hama <markhama@comcast.net>
I don't know if he has any left, but you might want to check.

I keep a #11 Exacto blade with a tape handle locked between the two halves of the guide.
So far, it's gone through security (Don't pass this on to TSA)

2. My CV 50mm bright line finder is in every sense equal to the Leitz versions I've owned. Score one for our host. See one here on a Leica II clone: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=133137&ppuser=20714

3. HH - Plz read Roger Hick's bit on CLA before you rush out and do something rash (or not) :rolleyes: EDIT: Maybe not Roger's... I can't seem to find it.
 
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Trimming the leader helps avoid getting the edge caught in the gate/pressure-plate and then tearing or jamming. The Leica (and Zorki) recommended method involves simply having the film cut correctly - this works fine without removing the lens or farting about with cards etc. The card included with early cameras was, according to the instruction booklet with my camera, intended for exposure notes and can indeed often be found covered in smudged pencil marks.

As you drop in the take-up spool and wiggle the cassette in to place, turn the take-up spool slightly backwards (towards the cassette) so that the springiness of the film lifts it over the sprockets. Doing that makes it completely painless.

The actual film trimming is conveniently done with a pair of small nail-scissors and for the twenty perforation measurement you can check which of your fingers is the correct length, or put a couple of pen marks on the case, or tiny bits of tape as markers inside the baseplate etcetera, etcetera. Simple to do when you have a working method organised, but there is perhaps a 'shock' reaction at first . . .
:)
 
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The idea of marking -even directly on metal- inside the baseplate seems great for knowing real quickly the place to start cutting the curve...

Cheers,

Juan
 
My loading technique (it's definitely the best:)):

Secure the film leader to the take-up spool.
Pull the film out and check the length by holding the spool and cassette up to the camera.
Trim the leader up to the cassette using cuticle scissors (a tip I got from Sherry K.), they allow you to cut the little rounded edges.
Load the spool and cassette then peek down at the sprocket next to the take up spool as you're turning the advance to make sure the teeth are engaging.
Close up, advance two, done. (I forgot, take up any slack with rewind knob)
 
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Well I did it! After reading this thread I had to go and buy a Barnack Leica. I picked up a IIIf red dial with a self timer. I was surprised by how small and light it is, it was love at first sight. I put my CV 50mm f/1.5 Nokton on it and went for a walk. It feels so good in my hands, even without a strap it was easy to hold. I'm just waiting on a 50mm brightline viewfinder and I should be good to go. I feel more enthused than when I bought my M2. The Nokton looks sexy on the camera as well. Thanks everyone for the knowledge and enthusiasm you all share!
 
zenlibra said:
Well I did it! After reading this thread I had to go and buy a Barnack Leica. I picked up a IIIf red dial with a self timer. I was surprised by how small and light it is, it was love at first sight. I put my CV 50mm f/1.5 Nokton on it and went for a walk. It feels so good in my hands, even without a strap it was easy to hold. I'm just waiting on a 50mm brightline viewfinder and I should be good to go. I feel more enthused than when I bought my M2. The Nokton looks sexy on the camera as well. Thanks everyone for the knowledge and enthusiasm you all share!
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Congrats!!! Another victim of "I just got..." threads. :p (I'm often one of them as well)


Two things I'd suggest:

If you like using Nokton 1.5 with it, seriously look into investing in SBOOI (or CV one). It literally clears up your view.

The real beauty of Barnack, IMHO, is when you mate it with a small lens. You'll be shocked how small the whole kit is with an Elmar 50/3.5. :) Oh and it's a great platform for small wide angle such as CV 28/3.5. :D
 
Thanks DI and Coelacanth!

I just ordered a brightline viewfinder from CQ, and I may be getting a 35mm Skopar. So far so good, I'll dev my first roll this weekend. It looks like the camera just came out of the box, I hope it works just as well. (fingers crossed)
 
Little Miss Red Dial arrived Today...:D
the windows are BRIGHT and the 1.5 magnification is WILD...l feel Like Alice in Wonderland...Trippy its so GRANDE :eek:

my only grip is I keep forgetting to Turn the film winder /cocking
and then I'm not ready when I see a moment to shoot
but I will get the hang of it
Had the summar and the 1,5 nokton on it ...will try the 35 2/8 summaron next :)


still an M Gal
but am warming up
 
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I'm glad for you, Helen... Sure you'll have lots of fun and get great shots with it soon, as Barnacks are like a physical part of us after a very short time with them... At least that's what I felt, and mine was just a two day one night affair... :) For now... It'll be flaming passion in a few days once again...

Cheers,

Juan
 
Yay Helen! Congrats. And sounds like you've got an excellent one with good bright VF and RF. Yes, the RF "patch" (the whole window) is really great for precise focusing. Unlike M, even the focus is way off on complex textured surface, you won't lose what you are trying to focus.

One thing you might have to be careful in the beginning is the shutter speed dial. It moves when you release the shutter so make sure your fingers are away from it when you shoot vertical or in awkward positions like hip-shots.

I can't wait to see your photos with the Miss Red Dial. ;)
 
ahhh.....Thank You Juan ^ Sug
My 35/2.8 Summaron & the Summar certainly make it TRES easy to stash in a jacket pocket


this IIIF was just CLA'd & it's very Smooth in use & Bright in Windows
The RF Window is SUPERB...

Does the SBOOI work Well on the M body ???
because this camera spoiled my EYE...the separate window @1.5 is Astounding...things click into Place Fast & Easy

Edit: Forgot to mention Congrats ZENLIBRA...I see we were Bitten by the same Bug...even down to putting the 1.5 nokton on Little Miss B
 
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Thanks Helen, these threads can be bad influence on the bank account but I'm not complaining. You only live once, right?

As to your question regarding the SBOOI, I love external finders for fast street shooting, less distance for the camera to travel and it feels so right.

(I can't figure out what SBOOI stands for)
 
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