RF-Addict
Well-known
For those of you who were interested in my previous question about problems scanning MF B&W film with the Nikon 9000 - I finally figured it out and thought it might benefit some other members here:
Just a re-cap: I scan all my B&W films as positives and convert them later in PS. WIth the MF glass carrier for the Nikon 9000 I had huge problems getting the spacing right between frames - somehow the scanner just wouldn't recognize where one frame ended and th eother started - even though I had specified the correct negative size in the scanner menu.
Well - it turns out the problem lies in the positive thumbnail scan. Once I switched to negative scanning, the scanner did indeed space properly. After the thumbnail view, I can then select which frame I want to pre-scan. The pre-scan is then done as a positive.
There is ONE other option - scan thumbnales as positive (which will give you mis-aligned frames) and then use the strip film offset slider in the "Scanner Extras" drawer to adjust the spacing for a particular frame - but it takes almost longer, then to just re-scan the thumbnales as negatives and then select the frame you want.
I tried cutting black strips to be placed between the frames, but that did not make any difference at all.
I am still baffled why Nikon would not allow you to scan the entire area of the glass carrier - what if I wanted to scan a MF panorama shot? I'd be out of luck.:bang:
In any case, the mistery is resolved
Just a re-cap: I scan all my B&W films as positives and convert them later in PS. WIth the MF glass carrier for the Nikon 9000 I had huge problems getting the spacing right between frames - somehow the scanner just wouldn't recognize where one frame ended and th eother started - even though I had specified the correct negative size in the scanner menu.
Well - it turns out the problem lies in the positive thumbnail scan. Once I switched to negative scanning, the scanner did indeed space properly. After the thumbnail view, I can then select which frame I want to pre-scan. The pre-scan is then done as a positive.
There is ONE other option - scan thumbnales as positive (which will give you mis-aligned frames) and then use the strip film offset slider in the "Scanner Extras" drawer to adjust the spacing for a particular frame - but it takes almost longer, then to just re-scan the thumbnales as negatives and then select the frame you want.
I tried cutting black strips to be placed between the frames, but that did not make any difference at all.
I am still baffled why Nikon would not allow you to scan the entire area of the glass carrier - what if I wanted to scan a MF panorama shot? I'd be out of luck.:bang:
In any case, the mistery is resolved
Desert Shooter
Trippin on Film
I can never get my Nikon 9000 to register corectly with medium format film, and always use the offset tool. After awhile, it gets easier.
What software are you using?
What software are you using?
RF-Addict
Well-known
Desert Shooter
I am using the NikonScan software. I tried Vuescan, but really did not like it.
I am using the NikonScan software. I tried Vuescan, but really did not like it.
Desert Shooter
Trippin on Film
When I bought my 9000, about a year ago now, I spent a few days researching as many sites about the scanner as I could find. It seemed common for the various posters to dis the Nikon Scan software in favor of Viewscan or Silverfast. This anti-Nikon concinsus was so prevelant that I purchased the Silverfast software at the time I purchased the scanner. I find the manual for Silverfast extreemly difficult, and the software overly complicated. I decided to learn the Nikon Scan, and have been very satisfied with one maddening exception: Many times when batch scanning, when the scanner is through and ready to hand you back to Photoshop, it just closes photoshop and you loose your scans. It makes me crazy.
I recently discovered T-Max 100. Wow, is it clean.
I recently discovered T-Max 100. Wow, is it clean.