GarageBoy
Well-known
Over expose a stop or two ?(expired in the 90s, not in a fridge, but in my parents closet which gets around 80 max in the summer)
How do I develop then? (Develop for normal time?)
How do I develop then? (Develop for normal time?)
leicapixie
Well-known
Amazed nobody yet replied!
220 such a handy idea.
Twice length of 120.
24 exposures rather than 12.
Now the problem..
You need a camera where the film can be used.
Counts to 24 exposures or can be reset..
The pressure plate ought to be adjustable for 220.
There is no paper backing after the leader.
A small amount at end.
The pressure of pressure back can be adjusted with a piece of backing paper.
I use 220 on my Rollei Automat.
NO facility for 220.
Expose 12 shots, run film thru camera, reload and shoot remaining 12!
It's old film, so you will have to do a test, not at an important event.
A standard developer ID-11/D-76.
Use cooler temps.
See Massive Developing Chart.
Of course you can simply shoot 12 exposures if 6x6, 10 if 6x7.
Wind film thru.
I think Hasselblad had a method with 120 magazines.
My Mamiya C-330 had an actual 220 back.
I came with it!
Sadly at the time 220 had NOT reached South Africa.
Mamiya ordered a back(free), gave me a Porroflex,
and discounted the 180mm lens(new) by 40%.
Ah! Days of service and customer support.
Enjoy the films, they have been waiting..
220 such a handy idea.
Twice length of 120.
24 exposures rather than 12.
Now the problem..
You need a camera where the film can be used.
Counts to 24 exposures or can be reset..
The pressure plate ought to be adjustable for 220.
There is no paper backing after the leader.
A small amount at end.
The pressure of pressure back can be adjusted with a piece of backing paper.
I use 220 on my Rollei Automat.
NO facility for 220.
Expose 12 shots, run film thru camera, reload and shoot remaining 12!
It's old film, so you will have to do a test, not at an important event.
A standard developer ID-11/D-76.
Use cooler temps.
See Massive Developing Chart.
Of course you can simply shoot 12 exposures if 6x6, 10 if 6x7.
Wind film thru.
I think Hasselblad had a method with 120 magazines.
My Mamiya C-330 had an actual 220 back.
I came with it!
Sadly at the time 220 had NOT reached South Africa.
Mamiya ordered a back(free), gave me a Porroflex,
and discounted the 180mm lens(new) by 40%.
Ah! Days of service and customer support.
Enjoy the films, they have been waiting..
GarageBoy
Well-known
I have a camera that can handle 220 film just fine- I'm more concerned about the age and how to minimize fog
If I down rate to cut through it (EI125 or so) do I develop as normal or cut back time?
If I down rate to cut through it (EI125 or so) do I develop as normal or cut back time?
Nokton48
Veteran
Yes I would expose a stop over, and there may be some fog added to the base density, due to the age of the film. On the first roll you shoot, you could shoot one at normal exposure, and then, a second exposure, one stop over. If you really want to be sure, shoot a third frame, giving it two stops over. That should likely cover it, but of course, it depends on how it was stored.
I would develop normally. You could add Benzotriazole to the developer, which cuts the fog level, but it also cuts the film speed quite a bit. If it were mine, I would just try overexposure on the first roll, and then adjust after seeing the results, if necessary. I have outdated B&W 220 film in my deep freeze, and that is how I am going to shoot mine.
wblynch
Well-known
Personally, i would shoot it at 160 and develop normally, using HC-110 dilution H (1+63) for tonality and reduced fog.
Pioneer
Veteran
I have shot Kodak TMX100,
expired in early 90s,
stored in garage,
hot in summer,
cold in winter.
1st roll at normal ISO,
progressively overexposed 5 shots,
progressively underexposed 5 shots,
rest shot normally.
Developed normally in D76.
Mine turned out just fine, yours may as well, but test will tell.
expired in early 90s,
stored in garage,
hot in summer,
cold in winter.
1st roll at normal ISO,
progressively overexposed 5 shots,
progressively underexposed 5 shots,
rest shot normally.
Developed normally in D76.
Mine turned out just fine, yours may as well, but test will tell.
De_Corday
Eternal Student
In my experience, Tri-X handles abuse well... shot a bunch of 135 tri-X a while back that had expired late 90's early 00's. Overexposed by 2/3 of a stop and processed normally. I would use developers that'll tend toward lower fog, but in my experience you don't need to overexpose a whole lot
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
If it is the 320 ASA Tri-X, be aware it builds highlight contrast faster than the 400 speed "standard" Tri-X most people know of. I ended up using basically half the agitation that people recommended and it was still on the edge of losing highlight detail.
I shot some on vacation, 220 rolls to save luggage space and almost wish I had just brought normal Tri-X or TMAX. Tonality is different, I'll just say that.
HC110 works fine. I'd start a stop over and see what you think.
I shot some on vacation, 220 rolls to save luggage space and almost wish I had just brought normal Tri-X or TMAX. Tonality is different, I'll just say that.
HC110 works fine. I'd start a stop over and see what you think.
Nokton48
Veteran
HC-110 tends to reduce fog.
Obvious choice.
Obvious choice.
GarageBoy
Well-known
It is the 320 Tri X Pan- I've heard its good for studio portraits - I'd prefer not to buy HC110 for 5 rolls of film- but hey HC is cheap and can be used for other stuff, I guess
Nokton48
Veteran
It's glycol-based (no water) so the syrup can be stored for a very long time.
And it can be used to develop lots of different types of film.
Yes it's great for studio portraits. And lots of other uses, too.