HuubL
hunter-gatherer
I found two boxes 30m each of FP4 with an expiration date of 1983. I assume NOT stored cold.... Still worth using it? If so, how to expose, develop?
FP4 1983 use it or dump it?
- Thread starter HuubL
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kully
Happy Snapper
I had some Ilford XP1 which was stored in bad conditions with a '85 expiry date. It turned out 'ok', by which I mean, it was fun, but I didn't use more than a couple of rolls - better to just use known good film.
sniki
Well-known
I'd expose & develop a span of film normally, peer at results and then take advantage of them (feed back).
;-)
;-)
calebk
Established
Give one roll a shot at box speed and develop at box speed. Then take reference from there as to whether it's usable, and if so, what adjustments to make in terms of exposure and/or developing time.
John Lawrence
Well-known
I'd use it - but not on anything important.
John
John
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
FP4 is inherently a slow film and they tend to survive expiry date storage better than the faster films.
As stated prior - spool up a roll and shot it at various speeds. Bracket down by 1 stop increments and process as you would usually. This will give you an idea of the "real" speed and if your developer works.
If you can find some benzotriazole (anti-fog) you can add some to the developer and cut the fog somewhat.
Surface type developer like Rodinal/Beutler tends to work well with outdated film. better than MQ developer. Two cans (200 ft) is almost 40 rolls, so it is worth the effort to try it.
As stated prior - spool up a roll and shot it at various speeds. Bracket down by 1 stop increments and process as you would usually. This will give you an idea of the "real" speed and if your developer works.
If you can find some benzotriazole (anti-fog) you can add some to the developer and cut the fog somewhat.
Surface type developer like Rodinal/Beutler tends to work well with outdated film. better than MQ developer. Two cans (200 ft) is almost 40 rolls, so it is worth the effort to try it.
raid
Dad Photographer
I agree. Enjoy it like doing an experiment. Then show us some results here.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Huub,
I'm shooting expired film all the time. Just make sure you test a roll first, and make sure you use fresh chemicals to get the most out of the film. Then, scan with maximum range from white to black and correct contrast in Photoshop or Lightroom later.
I've shot Agfapan 25 that expired in 1971 three months after I was born, and it turned out fine. I had not stored it cold for at least the last six years, it was in a box in the attic after moving house and I totally forgot about it...
Show some results! And, if you do not like it, I might be interested to take that film from you.
I'm shooting expired film all the time. Just make sure you test a roll first, and make sure you use fresh chemicals to get the most out of the film. Then, scan with maximum range from white to black and correct contrast in Photoshop or Lightroom later.
I've shot Agfapan 25 that expired in 1971 three months after I was born, and it turned out fine. I had not stored it cold for at least the last six years, it was in a box in the attic after moving house and I totally forgot about it...
Show some results! And, if you do not like it, I might be interested to take that film from you.
HuubL
hunter-gatherer
Thanks for your input guys! I'm certainly going to try a roll and will let you see the results (if they're worthy to show 😉).
Tom, does the benzotriazole trick work for film also? I know it's used in paper developer.
Tom, does the benzotriazole trick work for film also? I know it's used in paper developer.
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Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The benzo works fine with film - with some caveats! If you add to much, it drastically reduces the speed!
My mix is 1 gram of benzo in 100 ml of hot water ( a 1% solution). For film I add 10 ml of this to 1000 ml of developer. In extreme cases I have used 20ml/1000 but that will reduce the speed by at least 1-1.5 stops and is a bit unpredictable too.
Try the FP4 "straight" first and if the fog is excessive - try it with Benzo. Fog, in moderate levels is ok. You can print through it (or scan through it) and adjust contrast accordingly.
My mix is 1 gram of benzo in 100 ml of hot water ( a 1% solution). For film I add 10 ml of this to 1000 ml of developer. In extreme cases I have used 20ml/1000 but that will reduce the speed by at least 1-1.5 stops and is a bit unpredictable too.
Try the FP4 "straight" first and if the fog is excessive - try it with Benzo. Fog, in moderate levels is ok. You can print through it (or scan through it) and adjust contrast accordingly.
calebk
Established
Actually just shot and developed a roll of expired FP4 Plus, albeit not as "aged" as yours is. Haha. I got back the scans a couple of days ago, and here are some samples.
I'd say the contrast was a little lacking but by the looks of it, accutance doesn't seem so bad. Oh, and I pushed this to EI 320 :/
Nevertheless, samples:
That's me. Haha.
All shot on a R-3A & CV 40/1.4 Nokton at EI 320, developed for 14min in HC-110 (B), 20ºC, 30s initial agitation, 10s every minute.
I'd say the contrast was a little lacking but by the looks of it, accutance doesn't seem so bad. Oh, and I pushed this to EI 320 :/
Nevertheless, samples:
That's me. Haha.
All shot on a R-3A & CV 40/1.4 Nokton at EI 320, developed for 14min in HC-110 (B), 20ºC, 30s initial agitation, 10s every minute.