Going to Istanbul last minute advice

[marduk]

I am going to Istanbul for 9 days May 1-10 with my wife and three phography minded friends. This forum has given some great advice and I'm already aware of more places than we can walk on a single trip. I have some specific questions however.

We are more interested in the local life than museums. That said I am going to visit the Uskudar and Ortakoy Sunday produce markets and Kadikoy street market on Tuesday - those should offer some excellent photo opportunities.

I will bring my Leica M3 with 4 lenses (ZM Biogon 25/2.8, Summaron 35/2.8, DR Cron and Elmarit 90/2.8) and a Rolleiflex (about as much as i can stuff into Domke F-6). Can't imagine leaving something at home, except perhaps a 90mm - did you find using yours in Istanbul?

Would you recommend any particular ferry routes along the Bosphorus and sights to visit on the Asian side? Is it worth visiting Bukuyada istland (if not for the photos then perhaps for the nice views, walk among the trees or some cycling)?

Also is there some shop that stocks photo books in Istanbul? Any particular events in the city these days? Finally, would it be too cool at this time of the year take a dip in the Marmara sea? Any particular nice beaches not far from Istanbul like the Kilyos beach on the Black Sea coast? Many thanks.

 

[morback]

Ha, I just landed there myself earlier today (Istanbul time) with the hope of spending another sizable chunk of time as yet another expat in some weird country.

If you've read the other threads you should be fine. Real old neighborhood can be found behind the big mosques (and behind the tourist hotels/hostels that are behind the big mosques).

Tomorrow (May 1st) is labor day in Istanbul. You may not want to be part of it after 10 hours (if you're flying from US East) of flight, but I think I will go have a look at it. I've been warned that it might get wild...

The asian side is really cool (staying there temporarily until I find an apartment, in Moda hopefully.), there is a really nice super long seaside promenade by the Princess islands (where you will find the ferry to Buyukada).

In Moda right off the Iskeles there is a nice little street bazaar / produce market and I think also a famous Turkish home-cooking restaurant. There was an article about it in the new Yorker. Maybe someone can give you the name, I don't know where my copy of it is...

As a half-German who's dipped in the North Sea and various random craters of Iceland, any Mediterranean water is hot. Weather today is an awesome 17C, it's really a beautiful day...

Enjoy your trip!
m.

 

[marduk]

Martin,
Thank you for your hint, I will read something about the Moda district. I am from Kiev, Ukraine so the flight takes only about 2 hours and we live in the same timezone as Turkey 🙂 Have a nice time there.

Ha, I just landed there myself earlier today (Istanbul time) with the hope of spending another sizable chunk of time as yet another expat in some weird country.

If you've read the other threads you should be fine. Real old neighborhood can be found behind the big mosques (and behind the tourist hotels/hostels that are behind the big mosques).

Tomorrow (May 1st) is labor day in Istanbul. You may not want to be part of it after 10 hours (if you're flying from US East) of flight, but I think I will go have a look at it. I've been warned that it might get wild...

The asian side is really cool (staying there temporarily until I find an apartment, in Moda hopefully.), there is a really nice super long seaside promenade by the Princess islands (where you will find the ferry to Buyukada).

In Moda right off the Iskeles there is a nice little street bazaar / produce market and I think also a famous Turkish home-cooking restaurant. There was an article about it in the new Yorker. Maybe someone can give you the name, I don't know where my copy of it is...

As a half-German who's dipped in the North Sea and various random craters of Iceland, any Mediterranean water is hot. Weather today is an awesome 17C, it's really a beautiful day...

Enjoy your trip!
m.

 

[Peter S]

Nice trip Marduk, am going back with my wife in June again. The Princess islands are nice, but quiet and not really spectacular. I never managed to find Trotsky's villa on Buyukada (his daughter committed suicide there). It is a nice day trip though if you are tired of the hustle and bustle of the big city. Asian side is nice, don't forget Haydarpasa train station. In respect of ferries you cannot really go wrong, but I would choose the shorter ones although you could consider the ferry that takes you to Bebek and then walk back.

So much to do and see, just follow your nose.

If you are friendly and polite and not too shy you will have fun. 35 would be my main lense and maybe something wider for panoramic shots from the ferries/bridges.

Look forward to pictures and stories as I plan to be following in your footsteps early June.

 

[jbielikowski]

Visit Istanbul Modern in Karaköy. Going up and down in Beyoğlu can take whole day, somewhere near Taksim there are few small streets with nice antique shops I always find them by accident. There is a nice ferry trip along Golden Horn. Büyükada is awesome for photos, upper part is covered with forest when you can find cows and horses, lower is full of old houses, local shops, even market with vegetables etc. I would say pure old Istanbul, I would not recommend taking bike there, it's bit too mountainous there. You can take ferry from Bostanci, get there some sandwich with fish and fresh portakal juice. There are two types of ferries- one stopping on about 4 islands, and one straight to Büyükada. Asian part is nice for some walking, they have great promenade on the coast with nice Fenerbahçe park, Moda and Bağdat Caddesi full of expensive shops.

İyi seyahat.

 

[Honus]

Great information here. I'll be there for 4 days the end of June. Am really looking forward to it.

 

[BURAK1978]

Hi,

Considering you'll see this, I would recommend you;

1) Balat: where one of the most untouched eldest part of the city, where also most photographers visit, narrow streets and local people are very welcome so that you assume you record local life there...

2) Ferry: you are allowed to take photo on the traditional ferries in Istanbul depart from each side of the Bosphorus as well as from Golden Horn....

3) I do recommend to give a shot on Buyukada-Heybeliada as they are close each other and there is a ring ferry. Especially weekdays, there arent too many visitors from mainland so that you can enjoy (and obviously photo)

Lastly, ıf I were you, ı would keep myself away from Taksim Square on 1st May.

 

[john neal]

The old market docks and Agia Sofia definitely. Blue mosque and taksim if you have time.

Beware that alcohol is v expensive, but do try the pancakes!

 

[jslabovitz]

I'd pretty much second all the suggestions listed here. It takes very little time to take a ferry back & forth across the water, so don't feel hesitant to visit unknown neighborhoods!

I'd definitely avoid the tourist district (Sultanahmet). If you had more time, it might be interesting, but I truly think you'll get more out of the more obscure neighborhoods. Similarly, the Taksim Square area is very modern, but beyond shopping and convenience, not much worthy of interesting photography.

You might be interested in the travel blog I wrote when I was there in 2008: http://www.travellerspoint.com/member_map.cfm?tripid=149022&stopid=743429 (first article at http://johnlabovitz.travellerspoint.com/3/)

 

[easyrider]

Get a local guide

Get a local guide

• I visited about a decade ago. We hired a guide. he was an unemployed university teacher. He saved us a lot of stumbling around. Took us to the local markets where you can buy anything from parrots to old shoes, then took us on a local boat up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. Stopped at a nice restaurant for lunch along the way.

Great pix can he had in the Grand Bazaar. I shot some in cafes there with my Rollei35, the only camera I had. The pix are not scanned or I would post them.

 

[marduk]

Thanks to all who responded, I learned some new things from here.

I'd pretty much second all the suggestions listed here. It takes very little time to take a ferry back & forth across the water, so don't feel hesitant to visit unknown neighborhoods!

I'd definitely avoid the tourist district (Sultanahmet). If you had more time, it might be interesting, but I truly think you'll get more out of the more obscure neighborhoods. Similarly, the Taksim Square area is very modern, but beyond shopping and convenience, not much worthy of interesting photography.

You might be interested in the travel blog I wrote when I was there in 2008: http://www.travellerspoint.com/member_map.cfm?tripid=149022&stopid=743429 (first article at http://johnlabovitz.travellerspoint.com/3/)

This is the type of information I've been looking for, in sense that the articles convey an idea of local's life and general atmosphere from the point of living there. I will read up on it in the minutes remaining before heading to the airport.

 

[Mike Richards]

I left Istanbul some years ago, but I remember they had a nice and inexpensive Bosporus tour in the summer, starting in May, as I recall. They used a normal ferry boat, left from Kabatas and returned there, with several stops on both sides, taking some 5 hours total. The longest stop was at one of the North Bosporus ports for several hours lunch.

If you succumb and vist the Topkapi/Blue Mosque/Aya Sofia tourist attractions, try to find a half hour or so to visit the underground cistern (Yerebatan Saranci) in the same area.

There are lots of great restaurants, and I'm sure you'll have the opportunity to visit some. I always liked the Kum Kapi area, not for the food but the atmosphere. There are lots of small restaurants plus wandering troubadours.

Have a great time.

 

[semrich]

Lots of good suggestions here. Balat and Fener, neighborhoods next to each other are a must as well as Buyukada, going to these areas is like setting your watch back fifty years.

I've been on the Bosphorus boat tours with visiting friends and find to much time on the boat and to little time on shore for the five hours. I'd rather jump on and off the local ferries to the islands, Kadikoy, Uskadar and walk around those areas.

 

[Pablito]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Istanbul_(Not_Constantinople)

 

[marduk]

As a short write-up, the travel worked out great. Balat, Fatih and Fener have become my favorite districts. A lot of good photos there indeed. There's also an old district to the right of Istiklal street where some gypsy people live - good as well. Been also to Samatya, Eyup, Rumeli Hisari, Kadikoy and Uskudar and a couple of other interesting places. I didn't go to some of the touristy sites just because I was feeling leisurely and wanting to avoid the crows sometimes. I also wasn't in the right place in right time for a street market - will put it on the schedule well ahead next time. I'd love to spend at least another 10 days in Istanbul - still lots to see. I would probably go there earlier for photographing as the sun is quite high in May and since I was living in Ortakoy I would get somewhere far by noon only. Nevertheless, I have a lot of good memories about the city and people. I have put together some photographs as a video on youtube for anyone willing to see (better viewed in HD).