Handholding rangefinder

I'll second the comment about the Bessa. I have a Bessa R and I can feel the vibration of the two set of doors when I shoot. That and the mighty noise 😀
The best I have is the M2, where I can /easily/ do 1/15th. Next are the Zorkis; where I can shoot 1/15th most of the time, or 1/20 for the Zorki 1s.

But being able to shoot these speeds with good results is amazing, it means that with a fastish lens (f1.4 or f1.5) and ISO 400 film you can shoot where a SLR with ISO 3200 would be hard to handhold !

The shutter and lack of mirror slap is one thing, but there is also the matter of the lens flange being a lot shorter, so your own camera shake (including shutter button) has less impact on the axis of the lens when shooting.

All in all, it just makes a rangefinder /ideal/ for slow speeds. 😀
 
Buze, the Bessa R must be close to the 4inch guns on the Hamburg class destroyers, at least judging from the sound and vibration of my Zorki 4 which is much louder than my Contax RTS.
 
It's all relative, really. I have a shot at 1/8 which I printed at 20x30 because the guy wanted a copy - and yes, he wanted it grainy and blurry! So I guess it depends on the effect you want too.

That was 1/8 on the Bessa R - it does shake more than my FED 1.
 
wyk_penguin said:
Since the ZM is basically an upgraded Bessa, IMHO you are into a slightly shaky ride . . . .

I feel the vibration from releasing the shutter *after* the exposure, so I question how much of a difference it makes to image sharpness--at least, compared to my ability to hold still or compared to mirror slap in SLRs.

On another note, even though the Bessa R2/3A and the Ikon share the same electronic shutter, they have different shutter release travel distances. The release point is lower on the Bessas than on the Ikon. In other words, it's as though the Ikon comes with a virtual soft release already attached. In my experience (I have an R3A and an Ikon, and really like them both), that gives the Ikon a slight edge in holding the camera steady during longer exposures.
 
I think the vivration you are talking about is from some mechanim that locks the shutter button in the up position after the shutter is tripped (before another wind on).

Yes, that freaks me out too. Mostly because I use my sense of touch to tell if my exposure it over (a.k.a. if the shaking has settled, I can lower my camera), but sometimes the locking action in my bessa r3a introduces a second clicking of the shutter release button which makes me think, "#@%$, I lowered the camera before the shutter closed".

OT: Why do they make the shutter button unpressable before wind on? Sometimes I like to meter a scene before considering if I want it, but the Bessa makes me wind on first........and I end up with the camera in the winded position all the time.
 
I know it goes against the grain of RFF :angel: , but a dab of flash may help muting the impression of blur in long exposures of moving subjects. I find it particularly useful in situations where you run the risk that the background becomes unintentionally sharper than the main subject..
 
I think simonankor is right. Relax! If possible, steady yourself against a wall, doorway, tree or something. Your right hand should enclose the right end of the camera with your index finger on the shutter button. Your left hand should cradle the camera with your thumb and index finger on the focusing ring. Keep your elbows against your sides and the camera against your face. Squeeze off the shutter, don't jam it down.
Oh, the other thing is, don't get old! I used to be able to get acceptable photos at 1/15th all the time, now it's hard. We tend to get more unsteady as we age. A glass of wine helps! 🙄
 
I don't think that the feeling of vibration you get during the shot is a good measure for the amount of blur on the picture. The second shutter curtain braking (or the return of the mirror on the SLR) does not have any influence on the picture and therefore doesn't need to be damped. My old SLR has much less vibration (almost none) on the 'mirror up' phase than it has in the 'mirror back down' phase

In my experience there are good (=calm) days and bad (=shaky) days, also very strongly depending on the subject

Robert
 
ok for some reason I have really steady hands and I take a lot of photos that are under 1/50th of a second with a 50mm lens on an slr (Canon 30V with 50 1.4) My general rule is dont go under 1/20th and im fine. When I had my mamiya 6 I took a lot of photos under that and they came out fine so I would guess that with a rangefinder you could possibly do around 1/15 and be ok depending on how much red bull you drank.
 
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