HC-110, like Rodinal 1:50

[mike goldberg]

Hi all,
I've been wanting to try Rodinal 1:50 for some time, and have to wait a bit until my order gets here from the Netherlands. So, I'll be developing a roll of Ilford Pan 100, shot in outdoor light and bracketed.

When developing Tmax in HC-110 [1:14] my Agitation was 30 seconds, then 2 turns of a stainless tank, every 2-minutes. Don't ask me where I got the 1:14 from; it works well with Tmax 400 🙄

It seems that a lot of our guys [and gals] utilize high dilutions, like 1:63 with HC-110 or 1:50 with Rodinal... and other than economy, I'm not sure of why? For sure, we all want good shadow detail, highs that don't block, sharpness, rich tonal range, etc., etc.

So let's hear, what do you do and why. Oh, the syringes are for measuring the syrup, of course, and they look better (+) Large ;-)

 

[rogue_designer]

I use 1:100 HC110 with long dev times (30min - 90min depending on iso) and very low agitation (3 inversions every 5-10 minutes)

For me it's to help control contrast and gives a grain that I like, since I'm often pushing TriX two or three stops. Keeps my highlights from blocking too much, and the tonality for a highly pushed film is quite nice.

I don't use this development method with any other film. Only TriX - its a look I like, and a level of familiarity I have with the combo that allows me to shoot freely, knowing damn well what my dev results will let me hold.

Other films I use more standard times and dillutions.

 

[FrankS]

I use high dilutions for economy and for the compensating effect.

 

[MikeCassidy]

My understanding of high dilutions is for tones. Expose for the shadow detail you want use agitation and time to develop the highlights to the density you want. A 1-50 or 1-100 dilution for Rodinal or 1-3 for Microdol-X or D76 1-2 and 1-3 will 'wear out' faster as you go from the shadows to the highlights. Therefore hold back the highlights as the grays have chance to differentiate.

Exposure: shadow
Development time and agitation: Highlights
Dilution: grays

 

[nikon_sam]

Okay Guys...I have a question and looking for a suggestion...
I will be shooting some Neopan 120, 400asa @ 800 with my m645 at the L.A Auto Show...
I have...
D-76
HC-110
Rodinal
Which would you use...???
Dilutions...???
Should I push beyond 800...??? (I don't think I need to)

 

[MikeCassidy]

"I will be shooting some Neopan 120, 400asa @ 800 with my m645 at the L.A Auto Show..."

This is really hard to answer; its really a personal preference.
I use Microdol X 1-3 or D76 1-1 for my 120 film; if I'm shooting 120 I don't want grain.

I don't know Neopan and I have never been to an auto show so have no idea of the lighting. For 400 I shoot Tri-X; I've shot Tri-X at 320, 400, 800, and 1600.

 

[Trius]

As has been stated, higher dilutions with developers such as HC-110 & Rodinal help with contrast and less aggressive agitation helps tame grain, especially that associated with pushing. These were shot on TX @ 1600, Rodinal 1:50 28min.

As you can tell, not a lot of light. Both were taken the same evening, conditions, etc.

 

[jfserejo]

Hi Mike,
like Rouge and Frank said. This way is easier (more time to balance) the development of dark areas, sweet rendering of grays tones without blowing the highlights. The ultimate measure with this compensation intention is to jump to 2 baths. 🙂

Hi Sam,
one of the last rolls I developed was Neopan 400 at EI200 with HC-110 Dil. H and I love the result: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=73520

But for an Auto Show don't you want razor sharp look in your photos!? I think neopan 400 at EI800 will be a little grainy for that kind of subject, but this is just a guess... I usually won't push b&w film at all.

Good luck!
My best regards,
Joao

 

[Trius]

Joao: That's seriously good.

 

[jfserejo]

Hi Trius,
thank you so much! I was really lucky with my nephew in this one. He is a pain to slow down or stop still, but this time I got him 😉